aluminum 3 man duckboat

Nice Boat!! I have a 17 ft bankes freedom, but your boat looks alot more durable especially when facing all the floating trees we have in our Northwest waters. In operating a fiberglass boat there is always a concern when you hit submerged objects, in the long run nothing beats aluminum.
 
I'll second Tod's opinion on the rocker on that back deck/pod design. A half inch rise over that distance might not be noticed, but what you have there is going to really mess up your clean planing hull.
 
I will give a third on what Tod and Ray said. I would think that without the clean edge it will suck the stern down and behave more like a displacement hull than a planning hull at speed.
 
John if you really want the upward bottom angle on your hunt deck, you might move the foward edge up two to three inches or so on the original transom. It would probably let the water break free from the original transom and allow your boat to break up on plane. It would act like a step on a high speed hull. the way it is now it will suck the stern down and unfortunately prevent the boat from getting on plane. I would extend the bottom on the same plane as the rest of the hull, small boats need all the planing surface they can get! Beautiful metal work! Is it mig or tig welded? Rich
 
John if you really want the upward bottom angle on your hunt deck, you might move the foward edge up two to three inches or so on the original transom. It would probably let the water break free from the original transom and allow your boat to break up on plane. It would act like a step on a high speed hull. the way it is now it will suck the stern down and unfortunately prevent the boat from getting on plane. I would extend the bottom on the same plane as the rest of the hull, small boats need all the planing surface they can get! Beautiful metal work! Is it mig or tig welded? Rich
Click to expand...


I agree, I've been thinking about a fix and the solution. I think on this boat leave the bracket as is and to get a piece of 3" (or so) x 1/8" (or so) flat bar and weld it to the transom in the plane of the hull extending the 2 hull panels past the bracket, basically adding a tab to the trailing edge of the origional hull. This would allow the hull to break free and would do the same thing as raising the bracket (what most all flotation bracket manufacturers do). With John's welding skills he should be able to do it real nice and then modify future boats by just raising the bracket.

see picture attachment...

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John: whether you move the foward edge of your extension upward or add a piece as todd recommended, you will have to provide a way to get air down to the step you will create. We built a 68 foot sportfish a while back with a stepped hull, the steps could not get air while the boat was trying to get up on plane, created massive suction. We added wedges to the hull sides in front of each step, this allowed air to get down to the steps and break the suction. It would probably be easier to move the extension sides in an inch or so on each side.Iwould still extend the bottom out on the same plane as the rest of the hull. I built a boat last summer with a similar tramsom arrangement the bottom is straight, just a continuation of the rest of the hull, works great! check my posts I am sure you will see a picture of my transom extension or hunt deck as we call them. Rich
 
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