Anchoring advice needed for my Estuary

MIKE-SID

MIKE-SID

Active member
I was thinking of hunting the Estuary on some open water in a harbor for sea ducks on a scouting/hunting mission. This will not happen with anything over a chop. The problem is how do I safely deploy an anchor off the bow? I can't easily get to the bow without leaning on the dodger and barely able to get good footing on the deck. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike
 
there is an anchor rode "guide" that you can mount of the bow and then tie off the line on a cleat near the cockpit. Put a float on the line so you can simply "release' it from the "guide" and then toss it overboard when you need to pick up birds.
I'm sure someone with more nautical terminology will know what I mean!!
 
Assuming the Anchor Line is tied off to a bow grab handle or cleat, etc then deploying the anchor isn't so difficult--drop the anchor off either side and pay out enough slack line to assure the anchor lays flat a grabs bottom. Retrieving the anchor is difficult to get to the Grab Handle or Cleat (because of spray shield or dodger) unless you have a hook pole long enough to reach over the spray shield/dodger. Does that work for you>
 
Carl said:
there is an anchor rode "guide" that you can mount of the bow and then tie off the line on a cleat near the cockpit. Put a float on the line so you can simply "release' it from the "guide" and then toss it overboard when you need to pick up birds.
I'm sure someone with more nautical terminology will know what I mean!!
Click to expand...

Good info, the wheels are turning
 
David Clites said:
Assuming the Anchor Line is tied off to a bow grab handle or cleat, etc then deploying the anchor isn't so difficult--drop the anchor off either side and pay out enough slack line to assure the anchor lays flat a grabs bottom. Retrieving the anchor is difficult to get to the Grab Handle or Cleat (because of spray shield or dodger) unless you have a hook pole long enough to reach over the spray shield/dodger. Does that work for you>
Click to expand...

I didn't think of that, good information, I'm getting closer to a plan
 
Mount a tie off cleat closer on bow to top of bow cockpit covering. Have a line hooked to at convenient lenght with brass snap hook tied on end that can be hooked into a loop on end of your stationary anchor line with a float on it. Simply unsnap to chase birds and lay line over or around dodger until retrieve done, come back and reclip into anchor line loop. Good aluminum crap pot line hook stowed in boat is easiest to pick up your line with on return. Works good for snagging decoy line when picking up also.
 
Steve Sanford said:
Mike and Roy~


Here's how we rig our Scooters open bay.....


[better CLICK on this to see it large enough]









All the best,


SJS
Click to expand...

Steve, a picture is definitely worth a thousand words. I was just rereading Roy's reply to understand what he was saying. Part of his plan is aslo illustrated here. Now I'm really thinking.

Thanks
Mike
 
Mike~


The stern anchor obviously keeps the vessel from yawing. as you lay in wait. Set the stern just where you want it for your optimal shooting orientation. A light - 5 or 8 pound - mushroom is usually adequate for the stern.


As Roy mentioned, a smallish boat hook is handy for grabbing the bow line when time comes to fetch a downed bird - or to pick up the rig. Most often, though - after hauling in the stern anchor - I row up and bring the float right next to me - mid-cockpit. I just grab it and unsnap.


Have fun!


SJS

 
Steve,
Great information. My biggest concern is how to access the bow of my boat to deploy the anchor. I love the rigging info, but the best tip is that I can ride up on the anchor and hook the anchor ball!
Thanks
Mike
 
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I attached the anchor to my bow painter which was permanent on the boat. At that connection I put a buoy and would just grab it with a hook or pickup stick after I motored up along side the line would be slack. The hook or pickup stick also kept me centered in a small boat no leaning out the side. I only hunted this way a handful of times in my Higbee. Remember Sanford rule that your painter should never be long enough to contact the prop should it go overboard while under power.
 
Now I get it. I've heard you speak of a painter which is what I call a bow line. And, yes it should be shorter than your boat. Ask me how I know. I use my "painter" to launch and load my boat and it is permanently attached to the bow hook then neatly stored on the bow wrapped on the front cleats.

I hunt open water a lot out of my 14 TDB classic and that is how I anchor in open water. Pull the stern anchor, untie the bow anchor, clip a decoy on the bow line, toss it in the water and retrieve your birds. However, I can reach my bow cleat from the cockpit.

Thanks for the diagram Steve.
 
Its called an anchor chock, attach at the bow, run anchor line through it, it will stay cause of the offset "horns" , put a anchoring cleat, or use your stern cleat, where you can easily reach it... The anchor stays IN the boat, the anchor line is attached to the stern, or reachable cleat., and the line runs forward through the chock....Deploy your anchor, and pay out at the stern cleat...when ready to pick up, run the boat ahead slow and retrieve the line and anchor, again, the anchor stays in the boat unless your adjusting your position, then just let the anchor hang from the bow chock....

Then like Steve says, put a float on the bitter end if you want to quickly un anchor and come back to the same spot, but that makes re anchoring through the chock an issue....frankly, you can pick up the anchor pretty fast the way I describe, all depends on your experience level.....
 
I have same issue. I created an anchor bridle. It is a line that loops on my starboard cleat, extends beyond the bow. A ring installed at the furthest point. I clip on the anchor the line goes from ring to bow. Using the starboard line i can pull up to the ring and disconnect from anchor. A float on the anchor line keeps it accessible after chasing birds likewise i have a light line with a float and clip. I clip at the port cleat so I can quickly get to the same point each time.
 
I made my sea duck rig modular. Bronze clips on all leads and rings on the ends. My bow buoy has a 3' pendent with the ring. My bow line is doubled over 12' with a clip on the tag end [ for bow eye] another clip half way to clip to the pendent, other end lays in the cock pit. Pull up, unclip and pick up birds. I don't use the stern anchor in deep water, only in shallow waters. Wind and tide.
Lot of work.
 
Capt Rich Geminski said:
I made my sea duck rig modular. Bronze clips on all leads and rings on the ends. My bow buoy has a 3' pendent with the ring. My bow line is doubled over 12' with a clip on the tag end [ for bow eye] another clip half way to clip to the pendent, other end lays in the cock pit. Pull up, unclip and pick up birds. I don't use the stern anchor in deep water, only in shallow waters. Wind and tide.
Lot of work.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to picture this, I'll have to try to make a sketch so it will sink in to my granite.
 
Thank you Capt Rich
Thank you Dave
I got great information now from everyone. Time to splice some eyes, and buy some brass rings

Where can I get the appropriate rings?
 
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