Band Saw Lubrication ?

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
All~

I just pulled the bearings from the top wheel of my 1940s (?) Walker-Turner 16-inch bandsaw. I will be ordering new ones later today.

Question: When I install the new bearings, what lubricant should I use? Is a straight 30-wt sufficient - or should I use a grease, anti-seize, etc. ?

All the best,

SJS
 
Steven


I would suggest no oil at all. I am dead serious about that. Your local bearing supply house should be able to match up an exact replacement in a SEALED pre-lubed bearing. No need to add lubricant at any point in time.
 
Steven


I would suggest no oil at all. I am dead serious about that. Your local bearing supply house should be able to match up an exact replacement in a SEALED pre-lubed bearing. No need to add lubricant at any point in time.
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I'm working on camper bearings right now, I'll use that advice about no oil! THANKS!
 
Steve,
From my experience & cheeking with an other friend of mine who had the same problem, it should be a SEALED Bearing, Which Should not require any other lubrication, if not I would just spray it with CRC. wait & See what they send You.
 
I'm working on camper bearings right now, I'll use that advice about no oil! THANKS!
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Been there, done that. Why don't they make sealed bearings for trailers? What a PITA to keep lubricated, even with bearing buddies.
 
Dave~

Assuming I do get sealed bearings, what about when I press the new bearings into the housings on the wheel? Anti-seize on the outside of the bearings OK ?

Thanks again.

SJS
 
Depends on just how tight the press is. Ideally, the fit should be just a light press fit. Gentle tapping on a driver tool, sized to contact the outer race only, should drive them right in. A light coat of oil on the inner surface of the housing will help prevent any galling during the install procedure.

Too much press is not good for the bearing. Too loose of a fit can allow the bearing to walk during use. It is actually easier to deal with a too loose fit rather than a too tight fit. If too loose, (drops right in), take the new bearing back out, clean the OD of the bearing and the ID of the housing and reinstall with a light coating of "Locktite".

If too tight and it (the new bearing) is not going in smoothly, Stop! , knock it back out and check for debris or burrs. Possibly polish the bore a bit and try again.

For this application the bearing should tap or press in with just a few pounds of pressure.
 
Ask for sealed bearings. They make two types. Spoke to bearing company about bearings for my ice boat, the better sealed one was $1 more. Penn Reels put a cheap bearing in their reels and failed later.
Clean out bearing holder and lite grease on outside of bearing, drive in with a soft wood. Can't beat the old saws...
 
Dave~

Got my new sealed bearings - amazed at how inexpensive they were - and they went in just fine. As you suggested, a bit of light oil to ease the installation. Both went in with just the gentlest of persuasion.


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Of course, I could not help but notice everything else I should do. I cleaned up and lubed the blade guide assemblies and treated her to a new blade. Now I need to look for a time where I could give her a break from sawing decoys and boat parts and do a true and complete restoration.

Thanks again for your help!

SJS
 
Steve, what is the oil stamp on the bolt? Never saw one.
As far as bearings go, I have been having problems with the box store and catalog kits. Have gone back to USA made timkin bearings. I usually end up dunking the trailer, always check each season. Have gone USA bearings in all my fishing reels also.
 
Rich~

The "OIL" on the bolt head tells me to remove the bolt to oil the bearings. It reminds me of the oil cups I used to see (and fill) on the big machines in my father-in-law's saw mill. This band saw is from the 30s or 40s - I am guessing before the days of sealed bearings.

All the best,

SJS
 
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