Boat updates, neat stuff and safety stuff...

tod osier

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This post is a somewhat non-cohesive set of pictures from the work I’ve done on the snowgoose this summer and stuff that I never have shown pictures of – final pictures are safety stuff to get people thinking.

After this summer re-working the snowgoose exterior, I repainted and made some improvements to the interior to increase functionality. I added the console and some attachment points to capture some chronically loose stuff like anchors boxes and decoy weight boxes that I have to fight with to hopefully make things more organized.

Console with decoy weight box strapped underneath. I love the console, it works great when running and hunts well too, so I'm very happy. I still need to wire a few things into it (like my tach, which is on my tiller now), but it is good for now.

consoleandweights.jpg



One of the things I did was to add teak wear strips to the shelf fiddles, this gave me a way of attaching hardware and will eliminate wear on the fiddles, which get scuffed up from the crates rubbing on them.

The “rope” is 5/16 shock cord and the hardware is a spring loaded cam lock cleat, I also put teak stops, so all the shock cord needs to do is hold stuff in place. The cleat works great and to tie the boxes in is one a one motion one hand job – very nice. The cleat is a little cheesy plasticy, but I used them for a couple years to support my blind previously and they held up well, so I reused them for this function.

anchors.jpg



Anchor boxes in place. I can stack my longline anchors and lines on top of the anchor boxes when I’m longlining.

anchors2.jpg



I made mounts to tie in and support my kicker inside the boat. I like the kicker in the boat rather than on the transom, so it doesn’t get salty and it is protected and moves the weight forward. I’ve always had it tied in the boat, but the bottom tended to kick out and it would chew on the fiddles. These new mounts have worked well so far, they hold it offset from the fiddles and are secure when roped in.

kicker.jpg



Here is the transom mount for the kicker, I’ve had it for years, but I don’t think I ever posted pics. Motor gets attached and the mount is affixed to the transom by a pin in the stern eye. Mount indexes to the stern eye and over top of the transom – it goes on well and works well. I’ve used it some to break in the motor, for trolling some and twice to get to shore with when I had water in gas problems. I usually lock the kicker steering and steer with the main – wouldn’t work in a strong wind, so I would have to steer with the kicker over the back which is not as comfortable.

kickermount1.jpg


kickermount3.jpg



On the bow transom I added a pair of bronze cleats to serve two purposes. The first is a simple, if not overly expensive, wear protector – as the roller digs the bow transom up. The main purpose is that when I hunt the coast I hunt from shore and ditch the boat a lot – very deadly compared to a boat blind. Tides here are 8’, so when the tide is moving the boat needs to be repositioned a lot, more than every hour. The boat is anchored from the stern (out) and bow (in) and as the tide rises or falls, the boat needs to be pushed out or in. Having cleats on the bow will allow me to push the boat out as far as possible on a falling tide and cleat it off standing in the water (giving me more time to hunt) and be able to retrieve the boat in as deep a water as possible. I can walk out up to my armpits and uncleat the boat, rather than waist deep if I have to walk out and climb in the boat from waist deep water to tie the cleats on the deck off.

bowcleats.jpg



I made this push pole years ago and it has served me well. I never push pole the boat in classic manner (or much in mud), but stumble along picking through rocks and shallows with it and use it to ward off impacts with rocks and docks. Works to retrieve decoys too with the hook on it. Head is oak faced with aluminum, pole is 9’ and doug fir and the works is treated with linseed oil.

puxhpolehead.jpg



Safety stuff. I was in my bucket yesterday when I had my camera out. The bucket is a completely water-proof food grade bucket with an o-ring sealed threaded lid (McMaster Carr). I keep all my day-to-day stuff in there as well as safety stuff (not flares though). It serves as a ditch bucket in the event that I go in the water. In the bucket are space blankets, VHF, compass, flashlights, water, cigarette lighter, asswipe, PLB etc… Bucket has worked and held up well – it works as a seat too, needs painted this season, though. My other safety gear plugs are for my Mustang Bomber float coat (won’t leave home without it) and my Dry Pak that wear around my neck with my cell in it. Other things that are on my must have safety list include: secondary propulsion (kicker and paddle), a proper rode for anchoring in bad weather (not the wimpy short lines I use for hunting day-to-day – I carry a 150’ piece of quality 3/8 line) and an extra prop for the main.

safety.jpg



Dry Pak. I really like having my cell phone attached to me. I don’t hunt anywhere in CT that I can’t get a call out, so having the phone protected offers great protection. I have a Spyderco rescue knife on there to clear lines in a hurry, a cigarette lighter and a light in there too. I tuck it into my waders with the knife clipped to my wader top for fast access.

drypack.jpg



Tool box with extra spark plugs, lights, drain plug, hose clamps and all the tools to do any fix I’m capable of on the water.

tools.jpg

 
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Tod,

Thanks for taking the time to post. I like the idea of all the important stuff for survival in one bucket. In case anything bad happens you know what item that you need to focus your attention to.
 
I like the "everything has its' place" organization Tod

One thing though: I presume the fire extinguisher is not mounted next to that gas can. Seems to me that it would be rendered useless in a fuel related fire.

How is the sea duck population on the Conn coast ? I have been out 2 or 3 times just North of Boston and could have shot 25 Eiders per person. All immature birds and we were able to be selective and shot no hens. We departed the boat launch by 7:30 each time, limited out.

Bill
 
Tod I think Mike means a wing spinning decoy, anything to drive you quackers Buddy.HeHehe.
take care
Eddie.
 
Ted,

I've breezed through your post twice and am going to print it out to identify any safety items I am missing. I've only been at this a couple of years and have been accumulating various items for use in an old sneakbox.

Can you recommend where I could get a dry pack, I have been using a baggie.

Oh by the way, Nice pictures... Nice post...

John
 
I like the "everything has its' place" organization Tod

One thing though: I presume the fire extinguisher is not mounted next to that gas can. Seems to me that it would be rendered useless in a fuel related fire.

How is the sea duck population on the Conn coast ? I have been out 2 or 3 times just North of Boston and could have shot 25 Eiders per person. All immature birds and we were able to be selective and shot no hens. We departed the boat launch by 7:30 each time, limited out.

Bill


Bill,

As for fire extinguisher, that is the best place for it as far as I can tell, I haven't had a better suggestion. The two most likely things to go up that can be put out are motor and battery. That is one of the reasons I have the battery in the stern away from the gas. A gasoline tank fire on a 16' boat isn't going to be something that I would think would be very effectively fought with a handheld extinguisher (to catch, you woudl probably have leaking gas and that gas woudl go right into the bildge), but I'm no marine fire expert. I've had multiple boardings and courtesy inspections by the USCG and they never mentioned it. If anyone has a better suggestion, I'm all ears. Bob?

We have Scoter and Oldsquaw in the sound in numbers, very few Eider. I don't get out but once or twice a year for seaducks and that is usuallyon the Cape. My coastal gunning is mostly brant and puddlers.

T
 
Ted,

I've breezed through your post twice and am going to print it out to identify any safety items I am missing. I've only been at this a couple of years and have been accumulating various items for use in an old sneakbox.

Can you recommend where I could get a dry pack, I have been using a baggie.

Oh by the way, Nice pictures... Nice post...

John


John,

I'm always looking for safety suggestions as well.

For the Dry Pak, search it on google, lots of retailers carry them in all sorts of styles. West Marine has them, but not a big selection.

T
 
Todd,
that is one very complete kit and layout. Good photos. A ton of gear for a smaller boat. Is yours 16 or 17'?

The cam cleats are a great qiuckie fix for a regular load that needs to be secured and have held up well with time on the sail boats.

The bow light mounting is interesting to me and significant. I feel strongly about a good red and green if you are in an area with any traffic esp. at 0 dark thirty heading out. Those are way nicer than some of the chepo stuff the OEMs send on new boats.

The bucket with seal is a very good idea and I am going to order one and replace my existing (Same 5 gal pail that saved my bacon a number of years back when we cut the bottom out of the old boat in the ice on Patchaug Pond)

Only thing I will add, and I have not done this yet, but if you are really thinking safety and you hunt alone..... in New England late season, your number one concern is hitting that water. Now, all the extra gear in the world is not going to be as much help, in my opinion, as one item. That is a light weight dry suit.
Overkill? Maybe? But jump in, in December and save your own butt with a helper standing by. Float coat is gona be a big plus, but a good suit is going to really help you keep your wits and get it done. Every Coastie in a small boat has one on after the temps drop. I think they are on the right track. Maine lobstermen also have a rope recovery ladder on the stern to help get into the boat.

I admit to not being an A+ student when it comes to all the hardware of safety, but I will say I feel the right mindset is key and a good working understanding of the gear present and its limitations goes a long way when the stuff hits the fan.

Hunt Hard
Hunt Safe.
 
Todd,
that is one very complete kit and layout. Good photos. A ton of gear for a smaller boat. Is yours 16 or 17'?

The cam cleats are a great qiuckie fix for a regular load that needs to be secured and have held up well with time on the sail boats.

The bow light mounting is interesting to me and significant. I feel strongly about a good red and green if you are in an area with any traffic esp. at 0 dark thirty heading out. Those are way nicer than some of the chepo stuff the OEMs send on new boats.

The bucket with seal is a very good idea and I am going to order one and replace my existing (Same 5 gal pail that saved my bacon a number of years back when we cut the bottom out of the old boat in the ice on Patchaug Pond)

Only thing I will add, and I have not done this yet, but if you are really thinking safety and you hunt alone..... in New England late season, your number one concern is hitting that water. Now, all the extra gear in the world is not going to be as much help, in my opinion, as one item. That is a light weight dry suit.
Overkill? Maybe? But jump in, in December and save your own butt with a helper standing by. Float coat is gona be a big plus, but a good suit is going to really help you keep your wits and get it done. Every Coastie in a small boat has one on after the temps drop. I think they are on the right track. Maine lobstermen also have a rope recovery ladder on the stern to help get into the boat.

I admit to not being an A+ student when it comes to all the hardware of safety, but I will say I feel the right mindset is key and a good working understanding of the gear present and its limitations goes a long way when the stuff hits the fan.

Hunt Hard
Hunt Safe.


The lights that you mention were one of my favorite additions. They are completely protected from front side and back the way they are set, but they show the requitred USCG degrees.

I agree on the dry suit angle, but I don't think I'm going there. I've swam once in January on a 10 degree day in my current setup (don't ask) and I'm really happy. With 5 mm neoprenes and the float coat, you lay on the top of the water and I didn't get saturated in the time it took me to get to the boat and haul myself aboard. I dont' know how much water I took on because I had torn a 1" rip in a wader boot, so my leg was saturated already, but my torso in that short dip did not get saturated.

Having the strength to save yourself in teh short term and if you can't to extend your life as long as possible for someone else to save you is the goal. I haven't been able to do the calculations for a float coat over neoprene waders, but it is a lot longer than just waders and a life jacket. The float coat seals at the waist and the pressure of the water keeps everything tight. Water would get in, but there wouldn't be too much exchange to chill your core.

t
 
Tod,
Great post. Appreciate all the insight from you experience. I never figured out a good way to use a trolling motor on my BB2, and I think you may have helped.

Also, I like the protected bow lights. Not sure how many plastic Perko's I've been through, and I was gluing stuff back together Friday night so I could hunt yesterday morning.

Take care!
-Bill
 
Tod,
Great post. I am just starting to outfit a new boat, so this was a very timely post for me. You have given me some great ideas. Question about the Mustang float coat; I have a sterns float coat, but would like to find something better. If you have ever used a Sterns, is there a big difference between the two, and do you think the Mustang is worth the money?
Thanks,
Paul
 
Im kind of a knife nut, and noticed you have a Spyderco rescue knife. Have you ever looked at the Salt series that Spyderco makes? They use H1 steel, a 100% carbon free, and therefore rust proof blade. It is the only knife I have found that lasts anytime for me commercial fishing in saltwater. It sharpens extremely well, and holds an edge ok, not great, but ok. It just plain dosnt rust. The Rescue knife may be working great for you, but if your interested, you way want to look at the Salt series.
http://yourcornerstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17267
 
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Tod,
Great post. Appreciate all the insight from you experience. I never figured out a good way to use a trolling motor on my BB2, and I think you may have helped.

Also, I like the protected bow lights. Not sure how many plastic Perko's I've been through, and I was gluing stuff back together Friday night so I could hunt yesterday morning.

Take care!
-Bill


Bill, having my lights out of the way and not on the deck was one of my priorities. There are some awesome LEDs out there these days that look bulletproof.

The floats are something I learned from Sutton over 10 years ago, they go on the anchor lines and you just dump the whole line when have to leave the spread. Using clips on the floats is nice because you can clip where you cleat the line and get back where you were instantly.

T
 
Tod,
Great post. I am just starting to outfit a new boat, so this was a very timely post for me. You have given me some great ideas. Question about the Mustang float coat; I have a sterns float coat, but would like to find something better. If you have ever used a Sterns, is there a big difference between the two, and do you think the Mustang is worth the money?
Thanks,
Paul


Paul,

If you look at the Coasties, law enforcement and the guys that work in the harbors in the winter, they all wear the Mustang. The coat is worth the money, IMO. The differance between the entry level Sterns and Mustang are night and day.

T
 
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