Boat updates, neat stuff and safety stuff...

Im kind of a knife nut, and noticed you have a Spyderco rescue knife. Have you ever looked at the Salt series that Spyderco makes? They use H1 steel, a 100% carbon free, and therefore rust proof blade. It is the only knife I have found that lasts anytime for me commercial fishing in saltwater. It sharpens extremely well, and holds an edge ok, not great, but ok. It just plain dosnt rust. The Rescue knife may be working great for you, but if your interested, you way want to look at the Salt series.
http://yourcornerstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17267
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Michael, my plan is to never use that knife, trust me, so I don't know if it is working for me :). For anyone who doesn't know the rescue series is a blunt point wicked serrated blade meant for rescue work.

I'll look at the salt series for a non rusting every day knife. Thanks,

T
 
Tides here are 8’, so when the tide is moving the boat needs to be repositioned a lot, more than every hour. The boat is anchored from the stern (out) and bow (in) and as the tide rises or falls, the boat needs to be pushed out or in. ---------------------------------- I have hunted in tidal areas also (Puget Sound, Willapa Bay- Washington state) One thing you might try: instead of moving the boat many times, try anchoring the boat in deep enough water to keep it floating. Use a bungie cord 50 ft long (or whatever you need) or so. Them simply motor to shore and beach the boat. Get all of your stuff out then push the boat back out into the water with another rope tied on to the front. The bungie will pull your boat out away from the tidal area. the tide can do what it wants for hours. When you are done for the day, simply pull on the rope you tied on the front of the bow and drag your boat to shore. Put your equipment back in the boat and motor back to your anchor. Haul that back in and go home. All of that takes much less time that it did to type all of this. It's easy. There is a commercial rig out there called "Anchor Buddy" I think. One thing I do is to tie a regular rope to the anchor long enough so I can drop in to the bottom with a solid pull (more so for pulling it UP in muddy stuff then lowering it) then I attach the bungie to that. The rope doesn't need to be more that 10 ft long usually. By doing this, you will have MUCH more time to drink your coffee....
 
Re the tying the boat off in a rising/falling tide... Eric and Neil B of this site came up with an ingenious idea... that I use frequently.

Think 3rd story walkup clothesline.

1) bring boat out 100 feet... drop anchor with a ring attached.
2) Motor back to land, get out of the boat.

3) Make a complete loop with about 250' of 3/8th rugged line... and put the line through the the anchor ring... the line moves freely within the ring... the line ends are attached to a short painter (rope) that attaches to the front cleat on the boat.

4) once back on shore... grab the clothesline and winch the boat out to the anchor (100 feet out).

5) Tie off the line on a tree/rock, blah...

Boat will bob and weathervane with the wind and waves...

Nice post... is that a metal wedge on the hull under the kicker holder pic?
 
Ted

How do you like that PRB? Been thinking about one of them or the full blown 406/gps model.

I have a emergency bivy sack that would work better in my opinion than space blankets for the duck hunting/ boating environments.
 
Ted

How do you like that PRB? Been thinking about one of them or the full blown 406/gps model.

I have a emergency bivy sack that would work better in my opinion than space blankets for the duck hunting/ boating environments.
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I like the PLB, but I don't want to use it. From what I read ACR makes the best there is and this unit is a 406 MHz unit with internal GPS, just like an EPIRB - works on the same infrastructure - this isn't like a Spot.

What are the specs on the bivy sack?

T
 
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Re the tying the boat off in a rising/falling tide... Eric and Neil B of this site came up with an ingenious idea... that I use frequently.

Think 3rd story walkup clothesline.

1) bring boat out 100 feet... drop anchor with a ring attached.
2) Motor back to land, get out of the boat.

3) Make a complete loop with about 250' of 3/8th rugged line... and put the line through the the anchor ring... the line moves freely within the ring... the line ends are attached to a short painter (rope) that attaches to the front cleat on the boat.

4) once back on shore... grab the clothesline and winch the boat out to the anchor (100 feet out).

5) Tie off the line on a tree/rock, blah...

Boat will bob and weathervane with the wind and waves...

Nice post... is that a metal wedge on the hull under the kicker holder pic?
Click to expand...


Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think it is for me - too many working parts for me. We have lots of odd shaped rocks to catch the lines and lots of weeds to gum it up along with current.

Metal wedge is an interceptor plate.
 
Tides here are 8’, so when the tide is moving the boat needs to be repositioned a lot, more than every hour. The boat is anchored from the stern (out) and bow (in) and as the tide rises or falls, the boat needs to be pushed out or in. ---------------------------------- I have hunted in tidal areas also (Puget Sound, Willapa Bay- Washington state) One thing you might try: instead of moving the boat many times, try anchoring the boat in deep enough water to keep it floating. Use a bungie cord 50 ft long (or whatever you need) or so. Them simply motor to shore and beach the boat. Get all of your stuff out then push the boat back out into the water with another rope tied on to the front. The bungie will pull your boat out away from the tidal area. the tide can do what it wants for hours. When you are done for the day, simply pull on the rope you tied on the front of the bow and drag your boat to shore. Put your equipment back in the boat and motor back to your anchor. Haul that back in and go home. All of that takes much less time that it did to type all of this. It's easy. There is a commercial rig out there called "Anchor Buddy" I think. One thing I do is to tie a regular rope to the anchor long enough so I can drop in to the bottom with a solid pull (more so for pulling it UP in muddy stuff then lowering it) then I attach the bungie to that. The rope doesn't need to be more that 10 ft long usually. By doing this, you will have MUCH more time to drink your coffee....
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Thanks Dave, I tried that system, in fact that is where the 5/16" shock cord came from that I used to secure my anchor boxes. I tried a couple different lengths of shock cord and just couldn't get it to do what I l'd like, but I never tried 50'. If I ever get sick of the way I do it, I'll try it again that way with 50' of shock cord. I really like to have 2 hooks firmly set into the bottom and frankly, I don't ever want my boat where I can't walk to it - I've had to swim for the boat in cold weather in cold water and I didn't like that feeling all that much at the time or in afterthought.
 
Can you shoot wearing the mustang coat, I feel like I'm wearing a foam barrel with the sterns coat. I have a stormy seas vest I wear now. I have to pull the rip cord to inflate it though, so if I bang my head on the way over the boat I'm probably toast. I can shoot while wearing it though. They also sell one that if it gets wet, it self inflates, I'm not sure if that would work well when it's raining cats and dogs.
 
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AMKOnePersonBivvy300.jpg


Either one, at $20+ they are more expensive than space blankets but hypothermia isn't your friend. They are small, lite and waterproof and you can close them tighter. I have a full goretex bivy sack that I take mountain climbing but I haven't put that in the ditch bucket (I also have a 7 gallon bucket with a screw lid, and I can attest they are a great set up).

I know its not the Spot, which I don't like (I don't need to phone home to say I am ok every night). I was just wondering about your thought process for deciding on the model you have. I have been researching and trying to decide what to outfit my boat with. I trust that you also researched locators and made your decision fully informed. The personal locator beacon you have requires manual antenna release and activation from a land position or above water level (and not in the water) and the GPS does not work while submerged. A full category 2 EPIRB costs about 1/2 again more as much but operates while floating in the water. What factors do you feel makes this is the best beacon for your conditions (likely that you'd end up on an island or floating disabled boat)?

In looking at your set up again, one other thought. Is your kicker a 2 cycle or 4 stroke? As you know, storing a four stroke horizontally would allow oil to get into the cylinders.
 
Can you shoot wearing the mustang coat, I feel like I'm wearing a foam barrel with the sterns coat. I have a stormy seas vest I wear now. I have to pull the rip cord to inflate it though, so if I bang my head on the way over the boat I'm probably toast. I can shoot while wearing it though. They also sell one that if it gets wet, it self inflates, I'm not sure if that would work well when it's raining cats and dogs.
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No problem at all shooting, I don't feel like I'm handicapped one bit. The foam in them is about 3/4 or 1" and it is over your shooting shoulder, so it doubles as a recoil pad. The coat is not constricting at all, I suppose fit is important too.
 
basegear_2080_17608139
AMKOnePersonBivvy300.jpg


Either one, at $20+ they are more expensive than space blankets but hypothermia isn't your friend. They are small, lite and waterproof and you can close them tighter. I have a full goretex bivy sack that I take mountain climbing but I haven't put that in the ditch bucket (I also have a 7 gallon bucket with a screw lid, and I can attest they are a great set up).

I know its not the Spot, which I don't like (I don't need to phone home to say I am ok every night). I was just wondering about your thought process for deciding on the model you have. I have been researching and trying to decide what to outfit my boat with. I trust that you also researched locators and made your decision fully informed. The personal locator beacon you have requires manual antenna release and activation from a land position or above water level (and not in the water) and the GPS does not work while submerged. A full category 2 EPIRB costs about 1/2 again more as much but operates while floating in the water. What factors do you feel makes this is the best beacon for your conditions (likely that you'd end up on an island or floating disabled boat)?

In looking at your set up again, one other thought. Is your kicker a 2 cycle or 4 stroke? As you know, storing a four stroke horizontally would allow oil to get into the cylinders.
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Brad, I'll get a couple of those bags, they look good.

The PLB, I bought after doing what I would call an extensive, perhaps exhaustive, search. I wanted a unit that has land and water application, and the ACR PLB does that for me. Certainly a compromise product, but I'm not carrying an EPIRB backpacking and I'm not buying both for my uses. The antenna needs to be deployed unlike an ERIRB, and they do need to be at the surface of the water to transmit and receive GPS, but they do float and are 100% waterproof. ACR makes a marine unit of my PLB that is blue as the only difference. So yes, it does not have a self deploying antenna (or pre-deployed antenna) and you would need to be semi functional to send the signal and need a platform to send from like an island, boat or I'd suggest in a pinch a body wearing a float coat and waders (once you are disabled the platform wold fail in the water, I understand). For an offshore boat, I'd go ERIRB, but inshore and on land a 406 MHz seems like the way to go, but I've already pulled the trigger and don't need to be convinced. I don't know where I would mount a self deploying EPIRB on a duckboat either. Let us know what you get and why to bring this idea to the top again.

Just to recap for others, since you obviously know this stuff. The ACR PLB and EPIRBs, work using the 406 MHz satellite system which is a nearly worldwide and international consortium of satellites and rescue command centers. The 406 MHz system works two ways (actually three). First it sends a distress signal out to the satillites. Once the GPS is dialed in on the satellites it sends a signal with the coordinates (it instantly sends a WHOA BABY! message and then sends the GPS coords when it gets them). If the GPS coordinates are not found the distress signal can be tracked via the doppler shift when a satellite swings overhead, this happens on the order of a couple hours if I remember (so good to have a body for the funeral if you are in the water). The SPOT PLB works on the global star satellite phone system and is a different beast; it depends on a commercial sat phone line to communicate - a system that people that use global star sat phones bitch about due to reliability. It also needs a GPS signal to locate you and how often do you have trouble getting a GPS signal in rough areas. The SPOT can't locate on doppler shift, having a way to get a signal out that doesn't require a GPS signal locked in is a benefit to me.

Price per price on PLBs, the ACR PLB is less expensive in the long term, but the SPOT is less expensive to buy (but has annual fees).

Kicker is a 2 stroke Nissan.
 
Tod - I dont want to beat the "shock chord" thing to death, but there is a product called Anchor Buddy that is a 50' length of bungee/line that works really well for pulling the boat out. It is used just as Dave described. I have never used it for duck hunting because I really dont have the need where I hunt, but I use it all the time on the Puget Sound during my summer boating. I just keep it perminantly attached to my Bruce anchor in a bucket behind the helm seat, with the line running to the bow and through the bow cleat; that way I can deploy it as from the helm seat as I'm coming in to the beach.
Everyone has their methods and what they prefer.

Best!
 
Good discussion Tod. I haven't made a decision yet for many of the same reasons you mentioned. I like the functionality of the EPIRB but the size and mounting has me a little concerned. I have been thinking about getting one and stowing it in the external pocket of a ditch bag. Still considering the factors. I rarely hike or climb solo so the back country considerations don't weigh as much on me. I wish my wife would quit telling my climbing and boating partners to bring back my body cause she needs it for insurance purposes. With an EPIRB they wouldn't have that burden any more.

Another interesting trade off discussion is the color of that float coat. I had an experience once with the USCG looking for me and a friend while onshore with a disabled outboard. We were standing on shore with a backdrop of willows wearing camo PFDs and despite standing next to a 17 foot duck boat and being in direct communication with them by cell phone they couldn't see us from 1000 yards away. So I hunt with an camo covered inflatable suspender-type PFD that is bright yellow once deployed but carry PFDs and Float Coat that are bright Orange with SOLAS reflective patches and attached strobe lights in the boat for motoring or when things get nasty. I appreciate you trying to get 2 uses out of 1 piece of gear by always wearing your green float coat.
 
Good discussion Tod. I haven't made a decision yet for many of the same reasons you mentioned. I like the functionality of the EPIRB but the size and mounting has me a little concerned. I have been thinking about getting one and stowing it in the external pocket of a ditch bag. Still considering the factors. I rarely hike or climb solo so the back country considerations don't weigh as much on me. I wish my wife would quit telling my climbing and boating partners to bring back my body cause she needs it for insurance purposes. With an EPIRB they wouldn't have that burden any more.

Another interesting trade off discussion is the color of that float coat. I had an experience once with the USCG looking for me and a friend while onshore with a disabled outboard. We were standing on shore with a backdrop of willows wearing camo PFDs and despite standing next to a 17 foot duck boat and being in direct communication with them by cell phone they couldn't see us from 1000 yards away. So I hunt with an camo covered inflatable suspender-type PFD that is bright yellow once deployed but carry PFDs and Float Coat that are bright Orange with SOLAS reflective patches and attached strobe lights in the boat for motoring or when things get nasty. I appreciate you trying to get 2 uses out of 1 piece of gear by always wearing your green float coat.
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I know on the float coat color is a trade-off I'll take. I'm trying to get three things out of it, first is to wear it 100% of the time when I'm motoring alone, second is to have it a discrete color so I don't have to take it off and put it on so it will always be on, finally and most importantly to me is it gives that edge in an immersion situation to give you the needed ability to save yourself via the flotation and thermal refuge. Jumping into cold water in my experiance is not fun and from the reading I've done and what I've seen myself - it takes you a few seconds or a minute for your body to get accustomed to the shock to your system and to get yoru strength back, then you have a while to get some work done before you start to loose strength. While your are gasping for air and getting used to the shock of the cold water you aren't saving yourself. With waders my experiance in an immersion situation is that your torso is immediately chilled. Jump in the water with a float coat and waders and you have no shock, you can work to save yourself from the pget go - it is amazing. For me I consider it far more likely that I hit a rock or log when motoring on a calm day and being thrown from the boat (or something way more mundane like falling out fo the boat pissing over the side or trying to clear the prop of a tangle) then have something happen in bad weather when I'm paying attention and am ready. In either case a float coat over waders will help extend the time you have, but only if it is on. I've got the SOLAS tape on my coat and I should have something in my Dry Pak to enhance visibility in the water, that is a good idea. Suggestion? Smoke?
 
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Tod,

Just looking this post over again. It reminds me that it is time to start thinking about getting ready for next season. I rolled my sneak box into the garage at the end of last season and have not done much other than pile a bunch of junk on top of it.

Since the sneak box is so compact, I am going to try to do better job organizing my gear this year.

Thanks again for posting this info.

John
 
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