Bodybooting sillys

Chuck J

Chuck J

Well-known member
Looking at making some bodybooting sillys for next season. Anyone got pictures/details of the construction, particularly the box/gunholder and pipe mount area? What kind of pipe/tube/stake did you use? This is probably the nicest, most traditional looking set up I found on the net...from one of Jeff Coat's videos:

Untitled-4.png


Any and all help/advise/humor always appreciated,

Best
Chuck
 
Chuck

Mine are a blatant copy of the one you posted. I didn't have the right paint on hand so the colors are a bit off. Since they are being used as a shield for divers I don't think it matters too much. I haven't worked out the pole configuration so any ideas on that would be helpful. As soon as the lake falls to normal levels we are going to hunt some of the flats where divers hang out. These things are cheap to make. I used some wood I already had on hand for the boxes so the 1/2" CDX ply is all I had to buy. I'm in for less than $20.

bodybootingdecoy1.jpg


bodybootingdecoy2.jpg


bodybootingdecoy3.jpg

 
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What about the 3/4 black gas pipe at hardware stores? Seems like it would be strong enough for those. If you don't know what I am talking about it's the same stuff they use to make pipe clamps. Like on your wall Eric.
 
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Eric,

Obviously our conversation last week spawned this latest endevor. I think those turned out mighty fine, even that brown you were concerned about looks good. If it were me I might knock off those raised primaries, but that is another arguement. hehe

I think I'll go with conduit or 3/4" galv pipe. It looked like in the video that they pounded the pipes in with a post hole digger. If the bottom is that hard, a conduit wouldn't last. Many of the spots I'll likely try are sandy, so I might start with conduit and if it doesn't last upgrade to pipe. thinking of a block dividing the box with a hole drilled into it, but have heard of using u-bolts to tighten at desired height...still thinking...

Chuck
 
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I have been thinking of making a few of these as well. I hadn't put much thought into the design but just came up with this idea for the pivot. Take a piece of Schedule 40 (black plumbing pipe) cut a piece for the silhouette and fasten it to protrude just below the bottom. Then weld/epoxy/fasten another smaller ID tube into it. Then depending on how far you drive the other section into the ground you can slip the top piece into the bottom piece. Just keeping it simple there, more parts = more troubles.

If you want more adjustment, make the section of the smaller ID tube longer to protrude farther into the bottom pipe and add some cross drilled holes an inch or so apart and have a hitch pin you can move to adjust.

Another idea is to have a larger OD pipe fastened to the silo and have the driven pipe with a smaller OD slide up into it

Here's the crude paint job

[inline silo.jpg]

View attachment silo.JPG
 
Eric,
I think they came out great! Certainly better looking than the mugs they were designed to hide!

Take care,
Bill
 
RC

Interesting thoughts there. I like the thinking on the middle design, but think if you reversed it such that the pin was on the silly mounted pipe you wouldn't have to reach underwater to change the hole. 'round these parts' (and your parts for that matter) we don't have to deal with a tide like the origins of this method. Once the height is set, you should be good for the day. The question then becomes how far do you need to or will you be able to drive in that pole to the bottom? I agree with KISS philosophy here. Weight is a concern, but not to throw duribility out the window.

Thanks
Chuck
 
Chuck,

The Saginaw Bay is a soft sandy bottom where I hunt. A cross bar about a foot above the bottom of the pipe would provide enough for someone to jump on and drive it in. An added spade underneath the bar would provide for/aft support if needed.

If I start on a few now, they may be done before the opener...of next year.
 
RC

Seeing as you turn the silly on the post to keep the face to the birds, you could go with 3 or 4 bars with flat stock below to stabilize it. with this, I don't think going only a foot into sand would be an issue. Without it you might have to go deeper.

I'm in the planning stages now, but can bet I'll be waiting for paint to dry next October...

Chuck
 
If a guy had access to a dairy farm with geese on it, they could make a big cutout of a dairy Cow and use it to hunker behind.
Course,
It is tough to talk to the guys at Lowe's about making a big dairy cow silhouette without them asking a bunch of crazy questions.
 
Was trolling around the net and found this on an Avery Forum...what's wrong with this picture???

Body-boot4.jpg


I mean besides the fact that those goose decoys aren't even close to hiding him and he bought most the bands off ebay.

Now that I'm done reading there, pardon me while I wash my eyes out with soap...
 
I got it, he is definitely exceeding the weight limit on the dog stand!

Err, maybe he is videotaping himself....or he's trying to look too hardcore to worry about the direction of the boomstick.
 
he's trying to look too hardcore to worry about the direction of the boomstick.
Click to expand...

Trying to look too hardcore??...don't think that's possible for the Avery page...but his camera jockey is setup for a gut shot...that and he's missing a 'Meatstick' sticker on the barrel...or maybe a 'Widowmaker' sticker would be more suited for this situation.
 
Was trolling around the net and found this on an Avery Forum...what's wrong with this picture???

Body-boot4.jpg
Click to expand...
Common mistake...... he forgot to put the camo facepaint on the dog, and it will flare birds!! ;-)
 
Black cap with white cheeks. He nailed it! He just needs to put on a bill held to his face with a rubber band.
 
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Chuck
Give the Guy a break, he,s trying to look inteligent, at least he thinks so.
Take care and God Bless
Eddie and Amber
Its all about Building that Bond.
 
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