brant decoy in the works

John Fraser

John Fraser

Well-known member
I started working on a hollow pine brant decoy and I wanted to share my progress. I'll update the post from time to time (it will probably take me a while to finish it). So here it is:

True 2" x 8" rough cut white pine. I plane it if necessary so that the body pieces will get a tighter fit.
pinebrant001.jpg


I'm using a Delbert Daisey pattern. I modified the body pattern a little, giving it a steeper curve on the underside of the breast and tail to allow for more hollowing.
pinebrant002.jpg


The old band saw I got at a garage sale. It only opens high enough to do the plan view on most decoys.
pinebrant004.jpg


All cut out and the body halves are screwed together. My holding device is just a block of wood that I clamp in a vise. The block is screwed into a routed mortise in the bottom of the decoy for a firmer grip.
pinebrant007.jpg


Roughing out the head.
pinebrant009.jpg


pinebrant015.jpg


I've since done a little more shaping to the head and I'll be starting on the body next.
 
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I used the same pattern with some minor modifications last season. I made a dozen, but needed a dozen more. I found it helpful to make a neck profile pattern to make sure the neck was nice and round.
 
Also, how does the hand plane work for planing the wood? I want to do the same thing. Since, I really don't want to spend a ton on a power planer right now.
 
Andy,
I also got the hand plane because a power planer was out of my budget. The plane is about 3 inches wide so it's difficult to make an 8" board perfectly smooth. However it does help to take out any big bumps or dips in the board. Putty will then take care of the rest.

On my duck heads I often don't get the necks as round as I should. But with this brant head having a longer neck, I really worked at getting a nice round profile (it is now rounder than you see in the pic). I can see how a profile template would help if I were making a larger quantity of heads.

Do you see may brant in Idaho? We don't see many of them here near Syracuse. However I grew up on Long Island and I still get down there to hunt one weekend a year. I do enjoy hunting for brant when I'm down there.
 
I headed to the coast last season. The birds almost came close enough for a shot. They probably were close enough, but I wanted them a little closer. I don't really like to pass shoot. I will add more decoys and try again.

I think I have that same plane. It worked pretty good for building my boat. ALthough the tote on it seemed a bit tight on my hand.

I think the length of the plane is more important for smoothing. They are all about the same width just different lengths.
 
I worked on the body this weekend so I thought I'd give an update. Please give me any constructive criticism that comes to mind.

My band saw doesn't open that wide, so first I get the profile using a hand saw, drawknife, and rasp.
brantbody001.jpg

brantbody005.jpg

brantbody007.jpg


Then I round the corners down with the drawknife.
brantbody2001.jpg


Then I did some more shaping using a chisel, gouge, and rasp. As I work I smooth it out with the sandpaper. I still got a little ways to go with the shaping.
brantbody2010.jpg

brantbody2008.jpg

 
I love build-alongs. You can always pick up a tip or two from them all. This could also be used to show how few tools it actually takes to make a decoy. Great job and keep the pictures coming.

Mike
 
i would love to be able to make decoys like that. i just don't think im crafty enough to do so. maybe one day ill try to do so. i like getting on here and seeing everyones craftsmenship. Its amazing what people can do with some hand tools.
 
I enjoyed the pictures please keep posting them.

I really like the one with the handsaw. It reminds me of when I did not have a band saw and was using a jig saw to cut out 2" stock for flat bodies. I then cut the angle best I could for the profile with a handsaw like you and worked it to shape with a draw knife.
 
budget carving at it's finest!!!!

The bird looks great, keep browsing craigslists and papers for a planer. I picked up a Delta 6" planer for $125 that had a table with feed rollers on it. Deals are out there all the time you just have to check frequently and be willing to travel a bit.
 
one comment, I would keep the sanding down as much as possible until the end of the job, it dulls your edge tools much quicker if you sand in between.

Looks good otherwise. Keep posting.
 
Brandon: I started out using an electric jig saw to cut out decoy heads and the plan views of the bodies. It was always frustrating how the jig saw blade would flex on the 2" stock. My old band saw can’t do the profiles, but I do appreciate it for the heads and the plan views.

Tom: I’ve looked at Craigslist for other items, but never for tools. I’ll have to check it out. Thanks.

Eric: I didn’t know that the sanded surfaces dulled blades faster. Is it because the tools have more "biting in" to do on a smooth surface? Or does the sanded wood carry bits of the sand paper grit? I only sand it down while carving to get a better view of the shape, it helps me to pick out discrepancies. I’ll try to keep it to a minimum. Thanks.

Also, does anyone have opinions on what glue to use for this decoy? The last couple of years I've been using Gorilla Glue. However I remember reading somewhere that it wasn't the best for wooden decoys.
 
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Nice progress, I like to use Tite-bond III or II. I've had good luck with both.
I only use gorilla glue on black cork.
Was that planting post the Clayton project in the DU mag this month?
Good stuff, John
 
Thanks John.

That planting was at Camillus Forest, just outside Syracuse. I haven't heard about the Clayton project.
 
This week I did some hollowing and glueing.

I cut out the inside of the lower 2x8 with the jig saw. I left 5/8" thickness on the sides. More material is left at the breast and tail ends.
BrantDecoyglueing001.jpg


Then used the router and gouge to scoop out the inside of the top 2x8.
BrantDecoyglueing002.jpg


Glued and screwed together. My first time trying the Titebond.
BrantDecoyglueing004.jpg


I originally drilled the hole for the head dowell through the body with a drill press to get it straight. Then I held the head on top of the body and drilled up through the body into the neck with a hand drill. Then I glued a 3/8" oak dowell into the neck. Note the mortise in the body where the base of the neck will sit.
BrantDecoyglueing007.jpg


Then glued the head onto the body. I stuck with the Gorilla Glue for this step to help fill some voids. To clamp the head in place, I just have an extra inch or two of dowell sticking out through the bottom of the body. Push down on the head and clamp the dowell underneath in the bench vise. Once dried you can cut the dowell off flush.
BrantDecoyglueing011.jpg

 
Titebond glue mixed with sawdust will fill voids and work better than Gorilla glue. Gorilla glue fill gaps by making bubbles. A bubble is not strong and just full of air. Gorilla glue's biggest strength is its marketing campaign.
 
Thanks Andy. The bottom board may not get as tight a fit as the two 2x8's did, so I was torn between the Titebond and the Gorilla. If I use the Titebond and then fill in the voids, would I be better off mixing the glue with sawdust as you suggest or should I use plastic wood putty as I have in the past?
 
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