brant decoy in the works

John I use epoxy only for gluing halves back together after hollowing and prefer to do an epoxy to epoxy joint when I do.
 
I have used system 3 in the past with excellent results. Right now I am on my first bird using Raka and it seems to work just as well for about 1/3 less money. Keep checking craigslist and your local papers for planers you can find them in used but good condition very cheap.
 
Eric: I didn’t know that the sanded surfaces dulled blades faster. Is it because the tools have more "biting in" to do on a smooth surface? Or does the sanded wood carry bits of the sand paper grit? I only sand it down while carving to get a better view of the shape, it helps me to pick out discrepancies. I’ll try to keep it to a minimum. Thanks.
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I'm not sure if Eric missed this question, or maybe I missed his response. I'll throw my two cents in and discount it a nickel.

The sand-paper does leave bits of grit in the fibers of the wood. I started out power carving, but find that I am gravitating more and more to sharp knives and gouges. My carving style tends to follow my expenditures on tools.

I've been told that carving after sanding is bad for your blades, so I try to finish as close as possible with a blade and if I need to carve more after I've sanded, I use broken glass. One thing I've started doing is using broken glass to smooth out the knife marks. I suppose glass could also get into the pores of the wood - but nobody every warned me about that. I hope it is better than sandpaper, but keeping your knives sharp is one thing that the technique dictates.
 
Andy, You do know that glass is made from sand? I would guess there is going to be small shards left behind that would dull your tools just as sandpaper, but that is just a guess.

John, Interesting build. You are putting alot of craftsman ship into the decoy, and I appreciate how you are working around using the tools you already have. On epoxy , I use West Systems, it is a great SYSTEM of epoxy, hardners for differeing conditions and additive, which I have found to be stocked at the local West Marine store. I started using it long before I found the internet and all the alternate mail order places, and used it to build a canoe which took alot of epoxy. I have been using it since for decoys, paddles, and other household projects, and although there are many cheaper alternates out there, for the volume I use, I don't see a point in switching. If I get to building another boat, I would think long and hard about what brand to use, but for the small amount I go through it is easy to stop in the local store and pick up whatever I am in need of. I noticed lately that the local Woodcraft branch is now stocking System 3. Personally for the quantity your likley to go through on decoys, I'd look to pick something up rather than ordering it and having it shipped, but that may be just me.

Chuck
 
Now I’ve got the bird all puttied, sanded, and sealed with a first coat of shellac. I went with the shellac because all the sanding sealers they had at the hardware store were for interior use.

This first picture shows the decoy and the ½" plywood bottom board with pilot holes drilled to accept brass screws. The inside cavity has also been painted to seal it up a bit. I screwed and glued the 6" strip of 1"x1" oak to the inside of the bottom board to attach the keel to. I used to make long, shallow keels that ran the length of the body and screwed into the pine close to the breast and tail. However this brant is a bit taller than the divers I usually make. So after hollowing this decoy, I realized that a shorter but deeper keel would provide more righting ability. When hollowing birds in the future, I’ll probably leave some of the pine running down the bottom center of the decoy instead of using the oak block.

The second picture shows the bird with the bottom board attached, puttied, and sanded.

BrantDecoysanding001.jpg


BrantDecoysanding006.jpg

 
John
Its looking good mate, it will be nice when it is painted, we dont call them Brant in the UK, we call them Brent and there are 2 versions light and dark.
Take care and God Bless
Eddie and Amber
Its all about Building that Bond.
 
Thanks Eddie.

There are the Atlantic brant (light) and the black brant in the U.S. The Atlantic brant are predominately found along the east coast while the black brant are predominately found on the west coast. It’s funny that you mention the spelling. Around here there’s a road called Brandt Road, I’ve wondered if that name has similar roots.
 
I just got the keel attached today. Here are the updated pictures.

Prior to painting I sealed the wood with a couple of coats of shellac.

I've made many diver decoys with simple black and white paint schemes, so this is my first real attempt at painting feathers. Veasey's book was helpful in explaining a wet-on-wet technique for painting the sides. After the paint dried I sprayed on a couple of coats of the Krylon flat clear coat.
brantdone001.jpg

brantdone007.jpg


I've been staining and polyurethaning my oak keels for a while because I like the look of the wood grain. On this bird I got a little fancier, staining and polying the bottom board as well and using brass screws instead of the coated decking screws that I usually use. I'm looking forward to using this decoy during the season!
brantdone011.jpg

 
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John,

Nice work! I really like your attention to the small details. The brass screws, the stain, wet-on-wet blending, the sanding - it's what makes a decoy special.
 
I am new to duck hunting and have never carved ANYTHING, but I've been using hand tools for finish carpentry and furniture making for more than 20 years.

Glass will not leave shards. The gunsmith that taught me haw to work on stocks used to get all old finish off with sharp glass.
If I were looking to smooth something that would have a blade ran over it, I would use a fresh metal scraper. Metal scrapers conform to the shape of the work piece as opposed to glass.
Although I don't necessarily agree, my grandfather would roll over in his grave if he found out I ran a blade over something that has been sanded. Many say you can do no worse to a sharp edge, I personally think a hammer would prove them wrong. Bottom line is it shouldn't be done or you should get really proficient at sharpening, not only does the reside sand your edge dull, but the tool has to work harder to start slicing the smooth surface.

I think all the decoys on here, including yours, are truly amazing works of art. I remember catching a fish with a rod I wrapped on a fly I tied in a boat I built for the first time. I can't imagine the satisfaction of shooting ducks over decoys that I carved.

As we say in the Navy, BZ shipmate.

Ron
 
Thanks Ron. I'll have to start using the file or get a spokeshave to even things up and then save the sandpaper for the final smoothing.
 
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