Cedar

Tyler Hill

Tyler Hill

New member
Me and a buddy are looking for some good white cedar for decoy carving. I haven't been able to find any mills around me that get it very often and am stuck paying crazy prices either through decoy material suppliers or specialty wood shops. Because of that I usually use cork but really love the way cedar carves. We are thinking of taking a trip up north to find some in the next month or two. Any one here willing to give me some tips on places to check out? Probably looking to get 400 +/- b.f. If you would rather message me feel free to do that.
 
I haven't carved cedar. Last decoys were black cork. Went to foam and plastic, easy way out. Would like to try cedar. Is it better to get rough sawn full sized planks or glue up 2" stuff?
Would also like to find some to try. Want to make a puddle duck rig for the boat. Any one have a source? I'm out on Long Island.
 
I like to use 2 - 2" or 2 1/2" rough sawn pieces glued together. Ill run them through my planer so the mating sides match up good. I have used full 4" or 4 1/2" pieces but its just another step to cut it in half and hollow. Plus if you don't get kiln dried the thicker it is the longer it takes to dry. Im down on the Eastern Shore of Maryland but we are willing to make the trip to Maine if thats what it takes to get good quality at a decent price.
 
I like Cedar, made many decoys from it. Now it doesn't like me - Always wear a high quality mask (as I always have) while cutting, and sanding Cedar. The dust is toxic, once in your lungs, it does not come out. Now I use Sugar pine and White pine, and no matter what material, still wear the mask, double canister Industrial Strength.
 
Certain streams are loaded with cedars that are blown down across the channel that I use to float and are no longer passable. I keep meaning to go up and clear them out and pick up some blocks for future carving stock. If you are up this way with saw and canoe I could certainly point you into a stash but you will be cutting logs so you will need a good size band saw to square out the rounds. I hauled out a bunch of Atlantic White Cedar blow downs behind the house about ten years back that was dead for who knows how long and the heart wood was perfect. I had cut into one inch boards and ended up selling as they were in my way. So don't be afraid to pick cedar that is going to waste. I just cannot bring myself to cut a live cedar they are like redwoods of the east.
 
C Michaud, I go to RI about 2/3 times a year to shoot sporting clays. Any local mills that sell rough sawn planks 2 1/2"? Would like to pick up some to make a nice rig.
Hey Steve, what do you use? Any one have any mills around???
 
Hi Rich,

Atlantic White Cedar does not last long in mills around here as local boat builders are quick to get their hands on it. One mill in Tiverton, RI handles white cedar from time to time and usually winter is when I see it in the yard. I will see if I can get the phone number for you in the coming week. Hard part with thick diameter wood on atlantic white is the taper limits the width. I know one carver that cuts the wood in three to four foot lengths hauls out on back and immediately splits down center, cuts to rough block length and leaves near wood stove for a few years before carving. Many local free sources and if you go that route be prepared to roll up your sleeves. Depending on when you are up if I am available bring along a saw and we can use my canoe and I will certainly send you back with some nice blocks for future use.

Chris
 
Hi Tyler. If you are willinging to drive, I know just the place for you. Goodrich's in Albany Vt, Acres of cut and stacked cedar. Its where I have bought mine for the last 20 years. Coleen Goodrich is good people. If you call her and tell her what you want, she can fix you up. I don't have the # here at work, but she's finder-able in the online white pages.

John Bourbon

BTW, I used to live in Queenstown, many, many years ago.
 
Thanks for the ideas everyone. Not sure about collecting my own just based on a time standpoint. John that sounds like exactly what I am looking for. Ill check them out thanks for the tip. I have lived my whole life over here and love it. Grew up in Grasonville and after graduating from Salisbury University moved back up here to Queenstown.
 
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Rich~

I, too, have my eyes open for some cedar. I have a very small supply from an Arbor Vitae (whitecedar) one of my gunning partners cut in his yard several years ago. Otherwise, I use White Pine or Basswood.

John Bourbon's lead for Abany, VT looks promising - but it's almost in Canada - about 3 hours from here. I may check it our during the warmer months when we are up at our camp on Champlain. I will let you know if I do.

All the best,

SJS
 
How do you guys think white pine compares to cedar? I have only used cedar and basswood before. I hand carve the bodies and its about 50/50 as far as hand or power carve the head. But if the pine is good stuff and is more common I would definitely be willing to give it a shot.
 
Tyler~

White Pine is great. You need to find stuff that's light (it can vary a lot) and free of sappy grain. I prefer pine to basswood because 1) it's a traditional decoy wood (bass has always been for the fancier end); 2) it smells great - bass can be pretty sour of bitter smelling; and 3) it sands more cleanly than bass - bass tends to fuzz up when sanded. And, of course, I live in White Pine territory.

On the other hand, my neighbor cut a nice big bunch of clear basswood for me last spring - so I will make the best of it.

Also, bass is better if you want to put in feather details - burning or texturing. Pine's grain is too coarse for fine work.

Best of luck in the hunt for good wood.

SJS
 
The decoys I make are strictly gunning birds so not worried about feather details. How does the white pine compare to cedar price wise? So I should look more inland for the white pine?
 
I prefer White pine, and Sugar pine, over Cedar. After the band saw, I hand carve, and well seasoned white & sugar pine are much easier on the hands, and wrists over the long haul. Years ago I used Basswood, but the longer you age it, the more it gets harder than the Hubs of Hell. Good for decoratives, power carvers, and sturdy heads. Much of the Cedar I used was very old telephone poles, with No Creasote. You don't so much carve it as Rasp it . It did make very good decoys. Also have clear cedar from Maine set aside for future use, but I'll take White & Sugar Pine any day - even with knots.

Never had a problem with gunning decoys made from Pine or Cedar. So it's a personal choice. If you have ever seen a Decoy made by Mr. Jim Schmiedlin, he uses White Pine.
 
Guys, a couple of thoughts, I much prefer pine to basswood. I've had issues with Basswood soaking up water. Even though I am an advocate of using Thompson's water seal on basswood and black cork, I still had issues with older basswood decoys absorbing water when the paint gets nicked up. And speaking of pine, sugar pine is very nice. The pieces I've carved seemed grainless.

If you guys do make a trip to Vt for Cedar, let me know ahead of time so we can get together, maybe show some deeks or drink a beer.....

John Bourbon
 
We have a mill down here in NC near Lumberton that cuts white cedar for $1.00 a board foot. They will cut it to your specs. I got a piece that measured 2.5" x 10" x 14' and he only charged me $16 for the thing taking into consideration some of the end wood would check. It was fairly clean with no heart wood. They cut wood for all the traditional wooden boat builders along the coast. They also have a ton of cypress. If you try any of that, get the wood as close to the base of the tree as possible to keep the weight off. I bought a block just to try it and carved that this past weekend...it was as nice as the cedar and didn't have the smell so my sinuses appreciated that. I have heard that will check bad but this piece was really nice and it didn't seem to want to split as bad as the cedar will.
 
John B. - For what it's worth. DO NOT put Thompsons Water Seal on your decoys!!!!! I learned that the hard way many years ago. It's the kiss of death, mostly kerosene, does not Seal the wood, and paint will not adhere correctly, and will blister. Plus it damages glue joints as well. Spar Varnish, or Smith's custom wood epoxy are my choices now. So far no problems.
 
I am a big fan of white pine also, it is so hard in this area to find cedar that is clear. once in a blue moon will you cut into a block and not find a knot or branch internal to the wood

very easy to find clear white pine, just because of the way the tree grows. usually there is a 3-4 ft section between branch rows that is clear as a bell, you should set the pitch in the wood after drying to prevent sap running out of the wood after finishing.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Have given me a lot to think about and look into.
If we head up north Ill be sure to let you know John.
 
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