Devlin Broadbill vs Clark Craft Broadbill plans???

GREG BASS

New member


I think I am going to build a broadbill boat? Do you know what the difference is between the Clark Craft "Broadbill" and the Devlin "Broadbill"? The Clark Craft plan shows the boat weight = 90 lbs. and the Devlin boat plan = 105 lbs.?

The Devlin plans are the "stitch and glue" assembly method but the Clark Craft does not tell you...just plywood and screw assembly?
Not clear what the difference is. The Clark Craft website does not tell you the specific assembly method used??

Greg
 
Greg, No question in my mind- Devlin. When I first read your question I had to do a double take on the weight because I built a 14' Broadbill and it doesn't weigh 90#. I went to Clark Craft web site and saw you must be looking at the 11'er. The Broadbill I built used plywood on frame construction and if I had known about Devlin I would have not built the one I did. Since then I built a Poleboat by Devlin and there is no comparison. First the frames don't let the boat drain completly. Second, the frames are always in the way when tucking gear away. Don't get me wrong, I love my Broadbill but when it needs replacement I will build another Devlin, either a BB3 or maybe a Scaup. The frames also provide a place to rot especially since the boat doesn't drain all the way. I have built 4 boats so far and plan on a couple more soon. After all that my favorite has to be my Devlin Poleboat, the one on my avitar. Good luck, beware the adiction and keep asking questions.
 
Yes, I am think of building the 11' foot Broadbill. So, did you use Clark Craft's plans for your 14' foot Broadbill then? I am not sure why the 11' foot Broadbill plan from Devlin is 105 lbs. and the Clark Craft plan = 90 lbs?? I want the boat to be as light as possible, due to the fact that one of my favorite hunting areas requires me to pull the boat over dikes to get to the different flooded fields & marshes.

I am still not seeing the difference between the Clark Craft vs Devlin plans.

Appears your Poleboat has a motor? Did you modify the original plans?

Greg
 
Greg ,

I built a Devlin Cackler a while back and would recommend going with the Devlin design , easy to follow and well engineered , just my .02


Good Luck and have fun !!


Dave M
 
Greg,

Here is where the confusion may be. The 11' broadbill planes on the Clarkcraft site are indeed Devlin plans which are the stitch and glue type. The 14' plan is the plans for the old Arthur Armstrong boat which uses a frame type contruction as Tom was eluding to. If you'll notice the 11' Broadbill uses (3) bulkheads for structual members. In the 14' broadbill plane uses a frame work for attaching the plywood using fasteners as well as a framework for fastening the deck. The 14' will require much more work to produce. You mentioned you were leaning towards the 11' boat. I only showed the 14' to show the difference in construction. If you build the 11'er in my mind you will be building the right boat. Hope this helps.

11' Devlin plan

View attachment broadbill11.jpg

14' Arthur Armstrong plan

View attachment broadbill14-3.jpg
 
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O.k....What about the differences 90lbs vs 105 lbs ?
I would rather build the 90 lb Clark Craft version, but prefer the Devlin plan.

Thanks.
Greg
 
Build the Devlin. I hauled mine on a trailer with a 9.8 on the back of it. I didn't pick it up and carry it around. You could call Devlin and Clark Craft and get the information directly from them.
 
Greg, If you really believe the published weights, I got a bridge for sale!!!!. Seriously they are just guidlines and I have no idea where the weight difference comes from. If the Clark Craft plans are Devlin then I would sugest calling Sam Devlin himself. I have not done that but many here have spoken to him with excellent results, I think he knows what a fan club he has here. Put into perspective the difference, how much gear weighs 15#s?. Regarding the transom on my Poleboat- I almost made a serious mistake of squaring off the transom which would have made the motor underwater!!!. If you decide to make a change to a design make sure it is reversable. I run a 4hp OMC on it and ussually lock it straight ahead and steer with a paddle, works great and easier. When under max throttle the rear deck is almost awash but stable. My Poleboat came in about 80#s by the way and Pete McMiller built one that was closer to 60#, "just sayin"
 
Tom,

But a 15 lb. weight difference can be a great help if you have to pull a boat over a dike as need to at my favorite hunting area. Yes...gear..decoys, gun..etc will be more than 15 lbs., but can take this out of the boat and carry them over the pull over dike spot. I can't take 15 lbs off a boat though. When I was young I used my grandfather's 12' foot aluminum row boat to hunt and this boat weighted ~ 160 lbs empty...can pull that boat over a dike anymore. Now I have an Old town square stern canoe Predator SS150 weights ~ 114 lbs., but I would like sneak or layout boat now. I could sit or layout in a sneak or layout boat once I got to me hunting area. I can really use my canoe to hunt out of comfortably, but the work fairly well at getting me to a hunting area. Again I hunt in an area that has several dikes you need to pull your boat over to get the different hunting areas. This is mainly why I need a LIGHT boat.

Thanks
Greg
 
Greg,

I'm afraid that boat will not come in at 90lbs. The plans call for 4 sheets of 3/8" plywood. Of course you won't use every bit of wood but If you build to print the lumber weighs more than that. 3/8" plywood weigh approx 28.5 pounds for a 4x8 sheet. Then add in 4 gallons of epoxy @ approx 8lbs per gallon and the weigh of the fiberglass cloth and your well over 100lbs. For instance the Momarsh website states the Fatboy weighs in at approx 90lbs. I've actually owned 2 of these boats. The first one weighed around 80 lbs. The next one was one of the redesigned model. That one was shipped to were I worked. I was curious so I wighed it on the shipping dock scale. It came in at 105lbs. don't believe everything you read on the internet! Really for hunting the area you describe I'd be looking at a Carstens Puddler, rotomolded Aquapod, or even a creekboat M-98. These are 10' and advertised in the 45 to 50 pound range. I currently hunt out of a FS10 Ascend kayak I bought at Basspro and I don't want to carry it very far and it's 55lbs. If you want to build something and weight is an issue I'd look at the boat Tom and Pete build.
 
Did you not like the Momarsh boats?

I want a small light weight layout or sneak boat that I can hunt with me and my dog in and still be able to use a small motor on the boat. Some of the areas I hunt you have a 2-3 mile distance to travel.

-Small light weight(to allow for an easy pull over dikes)
-Carry one(1) man, decoys & gear, dog
-Able to use a small boat motor

Let me know if you can think of a boat that would meet my needs.

I am still thinking about building a Broadbill 11' foot boat maybe? I do really like the Momarsh boats though, but they seem a little pricey for me...once you get all the accessories and pay ~ $350 for shipping the boat. A Momarsh may be more durable for pulling over dikes as well.



Thanks for your advise so far though!

Greg
 
Hey Greg-I hunt Shiawassee pretty often.

I paddle in and hunt the singles areas. I got ahold of a 14' sportspal a few years back. I really like it for shia. I bought a canoe cover with openings for it, and it works pretty well. The cover hides me, my junk, and keeps the wind off when the weather gets cold. The foam also insulates the bottom. It's also wide enought for the dog.

If I lived closer, I'd put the dough together for a winch/boat/mud motor rig. It makes life much easier-more room for dekes, snacks, dog stands, marsh seats, and such.


I've built some boats for Shiawassee. The lightest I've gotten is about 70 lbs. I like the boat, but it's not real good for huckin' over the dike up on my shoulder.

Good luck!

Scott in Leslie, MI
 
If you look at production boats both the marshrat and the bobcat could work for you. Just remember if you get a glass boat dragging it will lead to offseason patching eventually.
Good luck!
 
Greg,

I think you are on track with your analysis of the Broadbill. They are great little hunting boats for 1-person and a dog, and you can go light and drag them throught the shallow muck or power up to 15hp and take them though some deep/rough water (gotta be mindful it is a 10' boat, but they do very well for 10'). They are an awsome hunting platform for MANY situations. This year I found mine ideal for a several mile run on the river to hunt the flooded timber. Also, you can build them out of 1/4" ply instead of 3/8 to lighten them up a little. I built my from 1/4 (6mm), but being as it was my first build used too much epoxy and lost any weight savings. The v-hull and keelsons add to the seaworthiness, but are a detriment when dragging over levees. Can be done, but you are in for a workout. I originally intended to haul it in the bed of my truck, but quickly decided trailering was preferred. That is why I built this Gatorboat Bullfrog. With a flat bottom and weighing about 75lbs, it may be what you are looking for.

http://duckboats.net/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=26608;search_string=bullfrog;#26608

http://duckboats.net/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=38853;search_string=bullfrog;#388534

I inteneded to use the Bullfrog as a "decoy sled" and maybe hunt it lowblind in some of the wildlife management areas with flooded corn/levee systems. It is easy to load/haul in a pickup bed. With the flat bottom it is easy to drag. A little fastgrass and it disappears, and of course you can power or paddle through deep channels. Gatorboats said it will take a small outboard, but I have yet to put one on it (and honestly have not used the boat for 4 years as I have moved away from the area I had intended to hunt with it). I personally would not recommend it for rivers, lakes, or any other large body of water. Another boat to consider is Zac Taylor's Whistler (not to be confused with his more popular Widgeon). Have not built or actually seen one, but having studied the plans in his book think its flat bottom would make it a better "levee hopper" than the Broadbill.

Good luck with your decission!

-Bill
 
Bill,

That bullfrog sure turned out great!!

Greg, Any questions on the broadbill just ask. There any many people who have built her and can help along the way.
 
Bill,

I think will end up building the Broadbill 11' footer someday and just plan on using it for inland lakes and river hunting.

I think I will look more seriously at following boats for hunting the area where I have to pull the boat over dikes.

-Marsh Rat
-KAYAK - LAYOUT BOAT MODEL 114 Critter Getter http://www.bayourapidesfiberglass.com/
-Hellbender http://www.gotohellbender.com/photos.html-Bobcat boats
-Momarsh(Really like these boats but the price keeps me from buying one $$$)

Thanks for your advise and info.

Greg
 
Per email form Sam Devlin with Devlin Boat Co.

Just misinformation. Both numbers are correct as you can build with 1/4 inch plywood for the lighter model and 3/8 inch stock for the heavier boat. Regards. Sam

Sent from my iPhone


> Hello,
>
> What is the difference in Clark Craft's plans for the Broadbill 11' foot duck boat compared to Sam Devlin's Broadbill 11' foot plans as far construction methods??
>
> Why is Clark Craft's plans for the Broadbill 11' foot duck boat WEIGHT = 90 LBS., but compared to Sam Devlin's Broadbill 11' foot plans the WEIGHT = 105 LBS. ???? Clark Craft is using Sam Devlin's same plans correct? ...So why the weight differences?
>
>
> Thanks
> Greg
 
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