Drywall in garage question....

tod osier

tod osier

Well-known member
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Someone has got to have a way to deal with this.

Garage is attached and under living space. 5/8" type X drywall on ceiling hung on joists. Walls are concrete. How do you make the gap created by where the joists sit on the plate on the foundation 1 hr fire rated?

Picture attached.

Tod

View attachment garage.jpg
 
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Do you want it to be pretty or just legal? Legal is get a few cans of firestop foam from either a local hardware or big box store. Pretty is foam it first, let the inspector see it and then cover with 1x3 & paint.
 
Do you want it to be pretty or just legal? Legal is get a few cans of firestop foam from either a local hardware or big box store. Pretty is foam it first, let the inspector see it and then cover with 1x3 & paint.
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Purty and right would be what I'm going for. Firestop foam would be a great way to go if that will work. I suppose I could add some nice meaty crown for real class.
 
The crown molding would be a nice touch, but it will be difficult to secure against the concrete and may want to "walk" off the wall. Inside corners will be tough with crown given most concrete corners have a radius on the inside from the forms used.
 
The crown molding would be a nice touch, but it will be difficult to secure against the concrete and may want to "walk" off the wall. Inside corners will be tough with crown given most concrete corners have a radius on the inside from the forms used.
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There you go ruining a perfectly good plan with a dose of reality. A simple 1x3 as you suggested would be great and look nice and clean (and keep the mousies out).

Thanks a bunch for the suggestion!

T
 
Let me guess. You did a small project in your house and pulled a permit for something that 98% of homeowners and contractors wouldn't pull a permit for. So now you have the local "building official" in your house writing you up for something unrelated that has been that way for 30 years and now you have to fix it. But the "building official" won't tell you what you need to do, just that it needs to be done. Then after you complete the fix, he comes back and if the "fix" wasn't done by a licensed contractor, there's a 75% chance that he's going to tell you that it isn't fixed correctly and he writes you up again.
 
I suppose you could put the 1 by stock first and the do the crown... to me it would be a bit of belts and suspenders, but would do the job.

It's been a tough year for mice, I've killed plenty and finally have slowed them down. Cat is useless.
 
Let me guess. You did a small project in your house and pulled a permit for something that 98% of homeowners and contractors wouldn't pull a permit for. So now you have the local "building official" in your house writing you up for something unrelated that has been that way for 30 years and now you have to fix it. But the "building official" won't tell you what you need to do, just that it needs to be done. Then after you complete the fix, he comes back and if the "fix" wasn't done by a licensed contractor, there's a 75% chance that he's going to tell you that it isn't fixed correctly and he writes you up again.
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No, I'm doing the sheetrock because what was there was shitty (literally with so much mouse crap and piss) and other reasons. Anyway, I like to try to work to code if I can, but this one had me stumped how to do it without making a ton more work. I haven't used the expanding firestop foam and didn't consider it.

T
 
Todd,

Don't expect to find the correct fire sealants at Home Depot or Lowes. You probably will need to go to some place like Fastenal to get the correct product.
 
I have similar issues in my garage...I just need to type x the whole thing. The guy that built it did not rock most of it and it is a darn insect and mouse mess...

Tod sent you an email with a drawing for a solution, seen similar on firewalls in attics and such (commercial building)

Matt
 
Two layers gives double the hour rating if each layer is taped...seems that sticks in my mind...

A garage is normally a 1 hour rating with 1 layer of type x taped...but do check your local codes as who knows if they are following the International Building Code, the older Uniform Building code...or something they invented above and beyond...

Matt
 
I have similar issues in my garage...I just need to type x the whole thing. The guy that built it did not rock most of it and it is a darn insect and mouse mess...

Tod sent you an email with a drawing for a solution, seen similar on firewalls in attics and such (commercial building)

Matt
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I got the picture, thanks! That was the way I was thinking I'd have to go about it and it woudl have been a lot of work given what the foundation looks like. The foundation isn't the prettiest concrete I've seen and woudl have been darn tough to do that way - that is what I was dreading.

T
 
Tod:
The correct way to fireproof the cap where the concrete wall intersect the 5/8" Fire rated sheet rock at garage ceiling is to purchase 5/4" X 4" Pine, also Fire Rated paint from your local lumber yard. Paint 5/4" X 4". (2) coats, install ALL areas where concrete meets 5/8" Fire rated sheet rock. This is code. You now you can back to other projects, like storage of this years "Hunting Equipment.
D Dominski
 
Here is my .02 since i r 1 of those inspectors. check to see that the LOCAL code does say what rating is required and then yea some foams that are rated work, but usually the stuff from 3m or hilti or any other brand found at the big stores (tubes for caulk gun) and apply according to directions for rating required.
 
Here is my .02 since i r 1 of those inspectors. check to see that the LOCAL code does say what rating is required and then yea some foams that are rated work, but usually the stuff from 3m or hilti or any other brand found at the big stores (tubes for caulk gun) and apply according to directions for rating required.
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Thanks.
 
seventy five cents a linear foot is spendy? You probably don't need 96ft of it though....

Hey has "Skeet" or is it "Squite", completely taken over the household yet?
 
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