duck boat paint ????

J

John Sapnar

New member
hi guys im new to the fourm but i am really enjoying it. i recently purchased a sneak box which was totally restored in 2005. now the problem is it was restored for show. it has a high gloss eggshell color. i was wondering if anyone could tell me the best duck boat paint out there to use? i have a compressor and spray gun and really want a durable finish. i dont know what type of paint is on it now ie... oil based or whatever. im sure i have to sand and prime it . any help with this would be much appreciated. ie ... prep,priming , and the best paint ? the boat is 12ft (glass over cedar) if that matters
thank you in advance for any help you can give me
 
This is a no brainer, you need to talk to Lou Tisch at Lock, Stock & Barrel about getting some FME paint. Not sure what the correct acronym is, but it is normally referred to as F#^$ing Miracle Enamel by those of us who have used it. He will steer you in the right direction about color too.
I am sure Lou will reply but if not, his link is on the commercial duck boats page and he is registered.
 
This is a no brainer, you need to talk to Lou Tisch at Lock, Stock & Barrel about getting some FME paint. Not sure what the correct acronym is, but it is normally referred to as F#^$ing Miracle Enamel by those of us who have used it. He will steer you in the right direction about color too.
I am sure Lou will reply but if not, his link is on the commercial duck boats page and he is registered.
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Carl, for being such a stickler on goose names, you sure are fast and loose on what you call paint.

Flat Marine Enamel.
 
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My big boat is painted with Lou's paint and my sneakbox is painted with Parkers. Either is top quality, doesn't require primer and lasts really well. Lou has a much better color selection than Parker.
 
Petit Ship-n-deck is a good paint available in a few duck boat colors.........most marine stores will carry it or order it for you.
 
Hi John,
Let me know how we can be of service.
Here's the color chart. If you email me, I can send you a higher def jpg (duckguylsb@juno.com)
There's painting info below the chart.
We have some new colors (Nat Gear, etc) that are not on the chart yet.
Lou

FME-01AB3.jpg

Painting an Aluminum or Fiberglass Boat
  1. Be sure the boat has been cleaned off well with soap and water to remove all dirt, grease, leaves, grime and all that stuff that accumulates from years of hunting.
  2. Lightly solvent wipe things down with a rag and lacquer thinner. This will remove any gasoline, oil or petroleum residues that would mess with your sanding or prevent paint from adhering. When finished with the solvent rag, be sure to let it set out and lose it’s solvents before you put it into a closed container or trash can.
  3. Sand the entire boat, as required, to remove and/or scuff all the paint. Be sure to remove any loose paint. When sanding a duck boat, I prefer 80-100 grit. It gives better “tooth” and, after all……..it’ll help with the dulled surface and paint adhesion. Sanding must be taken into the best previously adhered surface in order to have the new coat of paint hold properly.
  4. For Aluminum boat-Spot prime any bare aluminum with ASG Primer (or AG Primer), specifically designed for use on “Aluminum, Stainless & Galvanized”. Do not thin AG Primer. A second option would be to prime the entire boat with PPG’s Epoxy Primer.
  5. For Fiberglass boat-You can go right to the FME as this is a Primer-Based Paint and will serve as its own primer. If you would like, another option would be to prime with PPG-Epoxy Primer and then follow up with FME.
  6. Once the primer has dried (AG, PPG or 1st coat of FME), you can base coat the entire boat, inside and out, with the base coat FME (Flat Marine Enamel-oil based) color of your choice. FME is a “primer-based” paint and requires no other primer underneath it on a properly prepared surface. You may use a brush, roller or sprayer. When spraying, the best is an airless sprayer though you can thin slightly with a high quality paint thinner for use in a regular air spray gun. If using the air-feed spray gun, we recommend the top-feed, gravity style of gun. It requires less air and less thinning to get a proper pattern. You will also achieve greater success with a couple thinner coats rather than one thick coat. Thinner coats will cure/dry much faster and more thoroughly….thus, more durable. Secret: “thin, you win”.
  7. When the base coat is dry (usually overnight in good temps), you may accent with any other FME color you’d like. The options are endless……match your local vegetation.
  8. We have several camouflage patterned paint schemes and colors available.
*Our 2-tone Reed Stripe was developed for the cat-tail marshes & flooded corn. Base coat in Starcraft Camo Light Brown (#26) and reed stripe with an automotive striping brush with Starcraft Camo Dark Brown (#27), thinning #27 on the palette as you work. We developed these colors through PPG specifically for us and Starcraft. You can even “green it up” a bit with Dead Grass Green (#28), O/D Green (#35) or some Olive (#18).
*Our Open Water Gray Pattern is very effective for layout hunting. You can base coat the entire boat with Open Water Medium Gray (#33) or Open Water Dark Gray (#34) and allow it to dry. Once dry, overstripe with a wave pattern of Open Water Light Gray (#32) by cutting the feed pressure down, reducing the size of your pattern to a small area and reducing the feed rate so it will be easy to control. Move the spray gun around in a lazy “wave”, walk alongside the boat and “wave” the gun to give the pattern you’d like.
We have pictures of these patterns that we can email to you.
  1. You can create your own color patterns/schemes with any of the FME colors we have. All the decoy and boat paints are TRUE - FLAT MARINE ENAMELS and work well with each other. We also do custom colors at no extra cost…try us.
Lock Stock & Barrell, Inc.​
123 Avery (shop)​
Clinton Twp., MI 48036​
Ofc.Ph: (586) 790-2678, Fax: (586) 790-2653, Shop Ph: (586) 465-0339​
 
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Years ago (like 40) Parkers was the only duck boat paint we used and it worked fine and likely still does. The last two boats I have painted were the ones I built and I used FME and have to say that paint is the best I have ever seen. I too have a compressor and an automotive type sprayer and it worked great thinned just a bit. Takes several days to totally dry good and hard but once it does it's impervious to most abrasion that I put it through.

For a primer I used DP-40 or 401, I forget, a two part epoxy primer that MUST be used outdoors as it is real nasty. It bites into the surface it is applied to real well.

You won't go wrong with FME. Give Lou a call and he'll set you up.

Pete
 
I thought that was it but F'ing miracle enamel sounds better!
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Just giving you some good natured ribbing.

I hope to go out and get some Canadian geese this week before the season closes. Maybe some Canadian ducks too. The American ones have already left.
 
John: I use sherman williams flat house paint on my classic BBSB and it has been holding up well.I had some lodge brown sold stain left over and mixed green arcylic artist paints with it to get the righe OD I needed the coats is a lot less then FME. bestDSCN0929.jpg bill
 
It takes less than 30 bucks worth of any kind of paint to do a BBSB size boat..inside and out. The FME on my BB2 has been on for almost 10 years now.....not sure how cost effective that is but I haven't gone bankrupt.....yet.
 
Being a profesional decoy carver I can't aford to have decoys returned to be repainted I've been carving for some 30 yrs and find that sherman williams hold up well on my decoys ,the only decoys returned to me for repair was from california and rats ate the tails and bill on some of the decoys of a client.and after seven years of use the decoys looked great.if the old timers had the paints of today they would have used them.most of the old
time carver work are not that great.the more realistic the carving the better success you will have hunting most of the old time carver work was no better then what my seven year old grandson can do ,one of my mentors said that only one in twenty five would get what he tryed to teach. quote from "Jim Sprankle"
 
Perry,
What is the make of your BBSB. Can you give me any info on it, ie: wood or glass, hp rating, who built it? Seen one like it locally and owner doesn't know anything about it. If he decides to sell it, what would be a realistic price? The only noticable difference is yours has a sail.
Thanks, Mike
 
My BBSB was built by myslef from plans bouhgt from mictic seasport museam Conn.they are by J.Howard Perrine of NJ around 1910. laminated ash ribs cedar planking epoxy glass coating contact Charle and tition for copys of constrction pic,s and offsets. there is a museam in NJ of the perrine boat shop. best Bill
 
Get to Tuckerton next September,you'll see more builders of wood BBSB than anywhere else in one spot.The Perrine boat shop is there as well.Allot of glass boats too.
 
thank you for all your help guys. ill be giving lou a call when im ready to paint. still have all the prep work to do and seasons over so im not rushing. thanks again
 
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