Ever see this?

Mark W

Mark W

Well-known member
I know, a teaser headline.

We have had this motor for a long time. I have never seen a motor with a curved skeg until this motor. They don?t make motors like this do they? It seems over time it has become more pronounced.

If it doesn?t come this way, how did it get curved? I believe these are cast, not forged and I would think of cast this skeg would have cracked and not curved. And if this happened over time, can it be ?bent? back into place or repaired another way?



View attachment 5B7DC000-DBCF-4E59-99E5-20F2B8440DBF.jpeg
 
They are indeed cast and therefore prone to cracking when bent, or bent back. I'd only attempt straightening with the foot off and some heat applied and hammering on a hard surface, like an anvil or some other metal base. If it that doesn't work they typically cut off the damage area and weld a new piece on. A lot of prop shops will tackle this. It takes someone skilled at welding cast aluminum. A lot of marinas will repair it by taking the foot off and sending to a prop shop...

Eric
 
Rotation of the prop, run the motor at high RPM in reverse for 2000 hours, that will straighten it right out. :)
 
Mark W said:
I know, a teaser headline.

We have had this motor for a long time. I have never seen a motor with a curved skeg until this motor. They don?t make motors like this do they? It seems over time it has become more pronounced.

If it doesn?t come this way, how did it get curved? I believe these are cast, not forged and I would think of cast this skeg would have cracked and not curved. And if this happened over time, can it be ?bent? back into place or repaired another way?
Click to expand...

Voice of experience here....that bend happens one of two ways: 1. The motor gets smashed/twisted against the bottom at the launch when waves hit the boat, or 2. It's a trailering screwup, the skeg bottoms out when backing up. The motor will rotate all the way to one side and presto! Having done both more than once, making me an unhappy expert in such things, I'd guess it's #2, you backed into something. Even lawn turf will do it. Or shallow water at the launch if the motor isn't tilted. Yes, I've tested and confirmed each particular theory, look for the telltale trench. [huh]

As far as straightening, that one looks pretty bad. I agree with Eric. I'd live with it or replace it, chances are it'll fail if you try to straighten it.
 
Looking closer at the photo, there is minor damage to the bottom rear of the skeg. Almost certainly contact with ground somewhere. That is some well shined hardware BTW.
 
I've seen skegs on well used commercial outboards which were worn almost completely down to the base, still chugging along with no apparent issues.

Cheap "fix", cut it off and grind a new shape to it.
 
gcs said:
I've seen skegs on well used commercial outboards which were worn almost completely down to the base, still chugging along with no apparent issues.

Cheap "fix", cut it off and grind a new shape to it.
Click to expand...

The skeg protects the lower unit gears and driveshaft. It strikes an object and prevents the prop from doing the same. Running a motor with a skeg that is not as low as the prop is inviting costly damage and downtime.

Eric
 
Mark

One other comment from your picture. That prop has seen better days. It has worn significantly. Time for a new one. If you are running muddy/sandy shallows you might consider a stainless prop. I switched to stainless and have never looked back.

Eric
 
All very true, but theres' the right way, and what you can get away with..[laugh]

Next best fix, weld a replacement skeg on, [;)]
 
gcs said:
All very true, but theres' the right way, and what you can get away with..[laugh]

Next best fix, weld a replacement skeg on, [;)]
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You did mention commercial rigs. I can only imagine the condition some of them are in when the bills have to get paid. [smile]
 
Running shallow in sometimes sandy, sometimes rocky waters with my boat I went with a stainless SkegGuard to add some protection to my motor keels.
Had one on my 150 and one now on my 115. My motor repairman suggested it. Easy to install yourself.

My cheap advise. lol
Steve
 
I had a mishap this past Thursday. I blew a bearing which caused the trailer to shift violently causing the bow strap to snap. The safety chain came loose and since my trailer is a roller trailer sent the bow in the air dragging the skeg down the payment. Somehow got slowed down and stopped before the prop became collateral damaged as well. I have no idea how I didn't lose the whole boat. Quote to fix the skeg was $79 for material and $200 labor and no guarantee I would get the boat back before season end. Fix the spindle, new hub and bearings, new strap and new safety chain. I decided to trim the skeg myself and installed a Skeg Guard from Keelguard. We will see how this works and at least finish out the season.View attachment Skeg Guard.jpg
 
Yes, this skeg has seen every type of abuse you can imagine. I?m not surprised it is curved, but am surprised it hasn?t broken off.

The motor is a 1999 and it has not been well maintained. Change plugs and lower unit gear oil and that is about it since we have owned it. This season the recoil started wouldn?t recoil. I tried to get it off. It there was a connector that I couldn?t figure out how to remove and I was afraid if I got it off I couldn?t get it back on. Squirted some PB Blasted into the mechanism and it has worked fine ever since. Point of all this, the motor is going in early next year to have some work done and I?ll be seeing what they want to do about the skeg.

Regarding the prop, the only environment it sees is mid and sand so yeah, it is quite worn. How do I determine what size prop is on it now and what size stainless prop should I go with? Motor is a 1999 (of 1996) Evinrude 15hp.

And yeah, not proud of the condition of this motor as it is not how I take care of my stuff.

Thanks for all the help

Mark
 
Mark W said:
How do I determine what size prop is on it now?

Thanks for all the help

Mark
Click to expand...

Should be some numbers on the hub. The numbers may be on the face towards the thrust washer at the front of the prop. Ther prop needs to be removed to revel any numbers on that face.
 
Mark W said:
How do I determine what size prop is on it now and what size stainless prop should I go with? Motor is a 1999 (of 1996) Evinrude 15hp.

Mark
Click to expand...

Check the hub. I had both a 1983 9.9hp and a 1997 15hp. Both motors had stock props which were 10 pitch.



View attachment prop.jpg
 
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