First boat build discussion of 2012.

I think we just need to meet on Lake Michigan and you can judge how this design handles... Bring you CBR

Nice looking build.
 
Wow Brandon, You have plenty of storage space. The inside hull shape looks just like the one David Clark is building now.
Phil
 
Phil,
That design was heavily influenced by David Clarks builds. I had a long conversation one day with him and also loved to watch his builds. Its a shame he does not post here anymore he was a great asset when it came to building traditional boats.


Here is that Garvey all finished. Its a great boat I am happy with it and now am running a surface drive on it. Works well in the open water and the marsh but I can't do anything far off shore or at least should not. This summer it will get kevlar added to the hull. It was not a proven design when built so I held of on the additional cost of it but now after its second season I know enough about it to know its a keeper. Running through the marshes with the surface drive make me want the kevlar that much more for piece of mind.


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Brandon, I guess the kevlar will help with hitting things in the marsh. I did not get to see Burse Shimps boat all done but I know that the 3 he built this year have a layer of Fab Mat layed up in the hull for just that.
Phil
 
Hi Brandon,

That Garvey is a really nice looking boat. Nice job.
The fact that you use a surface drive on the boat really got my attention. Can you comment a little on the use of a surface drive? Did you have to make any adjustments to the boat design to use that type of drive? What size drive do you use on the boat? Are there any operational issues you've run into that go along with using a surface drive on a Garvey type of design?
I have a devlin designed boat and have been contemplating using a surface drive and as you can see have some questions.

Thanks

Paul
 
Brandon,
may I ask why you would put the Kevlar on? Are you thinking abrasion resistance? Or puncture?

I ask from the perspective that many guys think it will add abrasion, this is false. Puncture, then it needs to go on the INSIDE of the boat, NOT the outside. Read up on that before you commit, you might find yourself 2nd guessing that decision based on the cost and min gain for your wood cored boat. If it was straight glass no core, then it might make more sense.

Either way, nice boat.

Phil, looking at your boat for the uptinth time, man I do like that one too... I have debated on a Jumbo Toleman with cabin for summer/fall use or what you have, but around 21'.....you are starting to sway me... Nice job on that build.
 
Brandon,
may I ask why you would put the Kevlar on? Are you thinking abrasion resistance? Or puncture?

I ask from the perspective that many guys think it will add abrasion, this is false. Puncture, then it needs to go on the INSIDE of the boat, NOT the outside. Read up on that before you commit, you might find yourself 2nd guessing that decision based on the cost and min gain for your wood cored boat. If it was straight glass no core, then it might make more sense.


Kevlar is astonishingly more abraision resistant than fiberglass cloth, especially on a per ounce basis.

To put a puncture resistant layer inside the hull does not make sense, especially if he wants to protect his cedar, the Kevlar should be on the outside (likely just under a layer of light glass).
 
Paul,
I am running a 35hp Gator Tail GTR35 is the model. Its a short shart with reverse. I had planned to swap back and forth between it and the outboard. The surface drive for early season marsh hunting and the outboard for later season open water diver hunting. What I discovered is I loved the 4 strokes gas consumption and it worked well in deep water for me so I kept it on the entire season. The only drawback is it has a higher profile then a outboard so the boat stood out more in the open water.

On my garvey I find that it will porpoises when run at full speed with no load in it with the surface drive. It is less likely to do this with the outboard but can if I trim wrong. My boat has a spoon shaped hull making it ride bow up which is how it was designed but it still can run on plane when under higher throttle in the marsh to get through mud and so on.

Devlin's designs are not a flat bottom boat so you may have different results then I do with a surface drive. Not that mine is a flat bottom either but its quite a bit different. I don't know anyone running a mud motor on a Devlin. I know David Clark had a surface drive on a Gavey style boat. It may have been a Devlin. Maybe someone else remembers.


Guys,
I am looking at the Kevlar for puncture resistance and had planned to put it on the bottom of the hull under a light coat of glass. My thinking is if I hit a stump it will help to keep the boat from leaking until repairs could be made. I don't plan to put a hole in my boat and 3/4 cedar is surprisingly strong but I do plan to run where hitting something is a possibility. Don't get me wrong i am not reckless just honest with myself about the possibilities based on how I am using this boat.
 
Eric,

I could just sell you mine... then I would have just cause for making a 21' or 23' center console out of .250 or .3125 aluminum....
 
phil, why would you go metal? weight? curious. Wife would kill me. I have 3 boats right now...

Brandon, before you spend the money on kevlar, read some really good sources about it...lots of myths about the properties of what it is good for. Just saying...... MOST people would be surprised once they do some research....
 
I don't know that the weight we be any less... My reasons (real or perceived) are maintenance, and durability in ice and impacts ( rocks and trees/stumps)
 
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Brandon, before you spend the money on kevlar, read some really good sources about it...lots of myths about the properties of what it is good for. Just saying...... MOST people would be surprised once they do some research....


Why don't you explain it for the great unwashed about kevlar fabrics. you already said that "many guys think it will add abrasion, this is false. " and that is clearly misinformation. Anyone who has worked with it and had the misfortune to try to sand or cut it knows that it is amazingly resistant to abraision. What information are you using to base your statements? Kevlar clearly has weaknesses, but its strengths are clear as well.
 
I have read of delamination with kevlar as the wood can flex more than the kevlar and pull away. Of course I have never used the stuff and can't confirm it.
 
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