First Cork Can Decoys

Kathleen,
I like your decoys. They have a "Rig" Look to them. Not all the same and a few nice different styles.
I like to use epoxy but I work with only all cedar or foam bodies and then mostly bass wood heads, but some cedar.
I dont use dowels but long screws. But I could see how a dowel set in a loose hole with epoxy could work in cork to add strength. I dont bang my decoys that bad and have not had a problem.
Thanks for the pictures.
 
Kathleen,
Your rig is going to look great on the water. I can just see them now, sitting off to the side just a bit from the other decoys, as if they just came in.

As to the dowel question. The epoxy is great. But remember that once it sets up, the weak part then is cork. not the glue. So, a dowel from head to maybe 2 inches into the body, assuming they are solid bodied, with some epoxy in the whole also, combined with the epoxy on the shelf and you'll have a solid head body attachment.

Keep us posted on your progress.
Kevin
 
I use a half inch dowel and PL Premium polyurethane glue. The poly is a minimally expanding glue that ensures a solid bond with the cork inside the hole. The easiest way is with 5 minute epoxy to attach the head and then drill from the bottom to insert the dowel. That works really well with a bottom board. I'm not sure if doing the same without a bottom board would work quite as well. Sanding it flush may be a little tricky. I have also used a screw for decoys without a bottom board. Then I simply screw it together all the way from the keel to the head.
 
Those decoys look great!

For added strength I run a 3/8" dowell from the head through the cork and into the bottom board. First I'll drill my hole up through the body and about 1-1/2 to 2 " into the head. I measure how much dowell I need and cut it about an inch longer. Then I glue the dowell into the head. Once that sets up I put glue on the dowell, the head, and the body. Then I stick the dowell down through the body and put pressure on the head while clamping the extra tail end of dowell sticking out of the bottom of the decoy in a bench vise. This sandwiches it all together nice and I leave it in the vise until the glue dries. Then I trim off the extra dowell. Like this:
P1010236-1.jpg



If you don't have a bottom board on your cans, then you may want to go with a 1/2" dowell.
 
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good, sturdy looking blocks! You can also run a deck screw with washer up through the bottom of the body into the head---make sure the screw length will allow for it to pass up through the neck area, which will afford a bit more strength--dowelling also works quite well.
If you have already epoxied the heads on, it might be better this time to go with dowels, since with screws, it is really a good idea to make a thin pilot hole in the head before doing the screw and glue method--simple reason is that occasionally, the screw WILL cause the wood to split do to the wood that is being replaced by the screw having nowhere to go--the pilot hole will relieve the pressure.
Hope that clarified some of the questions.
Glue alone is NOT a good idea, since most folks will use the head as a handle when picking up the deke--best to use either of the other methods coupled with glue.
 
Thanks for the advice. The heads are not glued yet (just sitting in place), so I can drill a pilot hole, thne use a deck screw and washer.

-Kathleen
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Given that I do not have a bottom board on my decoys, do you still recommend a dowel pin versus a deck screw, as some have suggested? A deck screw with washer is easier, but is it as sturdy when finished?
 
Kathleen, when you do the deck screw thing, first find the approximate center where the head will sit on the shelf, then with washer in place, drill down from top to get a point on the base, ehtn drill up until screw head just shows--set head in place and hit with yur hand on top--this should leav a mark on the wood--using a 12 penny nail, or a small drill bit, drill a pilot hole into the wood.
If you find you have any problems with the screw NOT drawing up into the cork a bit, just remove screw and using a 1" spade bit, drill down about a half inch. Then glue and screw head in place---i used to use contact cement on both surfaces-allowed to dry, then made the joint, then drew down a bit with the screw.
the screw method is just faster and does not inviolve drilling large holes into the head.
Don't forget to fill the screw hole in bottom with plastic wood, allow to dry, then sand and seal!!

By the way, with the tan cork, all you will need to do is slightly round the bottom to avoid chipping of the cork---Unless you plan on hollowing the material, it does not require a bottom board, just a keel.
Have fun.
 
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Kathleen

I'm w George. Large deck screw with an oversized washer. I also under cut the head before I glue it to the body. Basicly i take a ball cutter and run it around the bottom to give the glue some bite.I use 5 min or west system. Drilling the pilot hole is a good idea.

Phil
 
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