Fumed Silica Or Wood Flour

Tom H.

Member
I am about to order some filler. I am thinking of using just the silica. What are your thoughts about using just this for the fillets on a build. I have used wood flour before. It worked well. I just want something stronger. Am I right on using the silica?

Also, I am not sure on how much to order. The boat is going to be about the size of Black Brant II. Anyone care to guess how much to order?
 
Tom~

I use a combination of silica and microballoons. Another boatbuilder friend uses milled fibers for fillets.

I'd recommend calling the firm you'll be buying from and ask their advice.

Best of luck,

SJS
 
In our wood/epoxy, cold molded sportfish boats, we use Cabosil or fumed silica for thickening epoxy to serve as glue. For something like fillets in stitch and glue construction where optimun strength is desired we would use milled fiber. For fairing we mix in microballoons with 10% cabosil , works good. Rich
 
cured silica/cabosil fillets are really hard and are not fun to sand down to get a layer of tape on top of them.

For my BBIII I had the remains of two pounds of cabosil left from a prior boat. I used the last of that stuff on a third boat. I mixed mine with wood floor to thin it down some. For a single project you should not need more than a pound of the stuff or maybe a quart bag with milled fibers.
 
Get both. Wood flour is fairly strong and fairly hard to sand. Silica is very strong and very hard to sand. Wood flour is strong enough for most applications, but it drags when mixed thick enough to make fillets and it sags on vertical surfaces. Silica is stronger, but if the plywood will break before a wood flour fillet, how strong does a fillet have to be on an average 12-20 foot inshore boat?

Silica does have a place in your arsenal. It makes a very smooth fillet that doesn't drag or sag. Wood flour seems to take less to initially thicken the epoxy, but I can't seem to get a wood flour only blend thick enough for fillets without ending up with a mix that acts like sticky biscuit dough. I use wood flour as cheap bulk to get my epoxy to a molasses consistency and then use silica to get it to a peanut butter consistency. My fillets started to look better immediately and I didn't have to sand as much to get rid of the sags. A word of caution: once you mix your fillet blend thick enough it won't sag, it cooks off faster, so work fast. The flow of thinner mixes allows the mix to dump heat, but once you stop that flow, all that heat just stays in the mix. It will have 5 minutes of pot life, especially when you are working with fast hardener in the winter time. If a bead of silica/wood flour epoxy cooks off before you get the next piece bedded into it, you'll want a side grinder with a 30 grit disk to get rid of it. It eats sander belts.

On my 16' hull glassed in side and out with 6 oz cloth with bulkheads, decks and full gunnels, I've used probably 12 qts of wood flour and I am on my second 5 qt container of silica a this point. If I had used silica from the beginning, I probably would use 15 qts of silica and 7-8 qts wood flour. I've also used 3 qts of microballoons, 3 qts of Quickfair and about 11 gallons of epoxy/hardener. If you make a hull with only bench seats and you don't fair it, you will use half of what I did.

Nate
 
Tom, to extend the pot life of any batch of thickened epoxy, whether it be for fillets,glue or fairing mix, spread it out on a sheet of cardboard or masonite, or anything handy. Reducing the mass , slows down the reaction and exotherm [I hope thats the right word] The same reason the wetout or glass job always seems to take forever to cure, while the mix in the bucket cooks off way before you expected it to! Rich
 
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