Gator DH Build Design Changes

S

Steve Ensch

New member
I ordered the Gator DH plans and I am studying the idea of modifying it to run with a surface drive mud motor. I have read online that people have built this boat increasing/decreasing the overall size and employing a hard chine in the rear, and extending the rear to allow for more room to accompany the motor. Does anyone here have any experience making mods to the DH for mud motor propulsion? Is increasing the dimensions as simple as just +1".

thanks,
Steve
 
I ordered the Gator DH plans and I am studying the idea of modifying it to run with a surface drive mud motor. I have read online that people have built this boat increasing/decreasing the overall size and employing a hard chine in the rear, and extending the rear to allow for more room to accompany the motor. Does anyone here have any experience making mods to the DH for mud motor propulsion? Is increasing the dimensions as simple as just +1".

thanks,
Steve
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A ton of experience with it. I've built 17 or so to date and a couple of different sizes. I'm currently (and have been for about 5 years) running a 21hp Hyperdrive on my original DH. What exactly are you wanting to do? I'll be glad to offer any suggestions. If you want to keep the overall look of the boat, ie, keeping the rear rocker, you can install some wedges that will give plenty of lift to the stern to run a short tail properly. Otherwise, the best way to go is to remove the rear rocker and keep the boat 48" wide all the way back.

Brad
 
Thanks Brad I appreciate your input. Your boats are inspiring and your quality is first rate.

I am not necessarily concerned about keeping the original lines of the DH but to be quite honest incorporating what you have done with the NFZ to the original DH. With that being said I recognize your work and investment in designing your boats and want to respect your efforts. Your suggestion to keep the boat at 48" to the stern is probably the way I would go to increase displacement right. Your other suggestion was to add wedges - is this to the transom itself to aid in the angle of approach of the motor?

Thanks again Brad

Steve
 
Steve,

Ill chime in here as I have built a DH and added wedges to it. The wedges are added to the bottom of the boat at the transom, in order to give the boat a kick upward at the stern and reduce any porpoising issues and to help it get on plane.

Hindsight for me would be to reduce or eliminate the rocker in the rear (probably reduce but not completely eliminate it). This would give more planing surface to work with and help out on porpoising. With 2 guys and gear I needed a 25 hp to get er up on plane and ride good (mine is built to spec). I think if you eliminated the rocker in the rear you could do it with alot less hp, but it would take away from its maneurerability a bit.

Ill try to attach a pic or two of the wedges being added

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P6242049.jpg


Jason
 
Thanks Jason now I completely understand the wedge effect. I think once I receive and review the plans/drawings I can begin to draw out my design dimensionally I actually thought of inputting my design into AutoCAD or Solidworks. What about the rear taper of the boat I notice from people pics the boat definitely narrows from mid to stern.

Steve
 
Thanks Jason now I completely understand the wedge effect. I think once I receive and review the plans/drawings I can begin to draw out my design dimensionally I actually thought of inputting my design into AutoCAD or Solidworks. What about the rear taper of the boat I notice from people pics the boat definitely narrows from mid to stern.

Steve
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Steve, the wedges provide lift. If you remove the rocker, thus eliminating the taper, you won't need to add wedges. Because its kind of a cross between a planing and a displacement hull it takes a little more "umpphh" to get it up on plane when built to specs. Most of the people I have built boats for are running hydrofoils but the wedges eliminate the need for those "big uglies" :) More specifically I went from barely getting on plane, running 14 mph, and the motor not piercing the surface to get the top speed as designed (I had better speed with it trimmed down) to running 23 mph, prop piercing the surface and taching around 4000 once I installed the wedges.

Brad
 
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The DH is not a planing design. If you want to plane, change it. I wouldn't mess with autocad or what ever. Just draw it out fullsize on some large paper or ply. That how they did it old school and it still works. Probably faster and you can take measurements directly off of it too. I lofted my boat out fullsize. It was easy and turned out great.
 
I dont know what the plans provide but the reason for Autocad is to print out scale size templates for tracing/cutting.
I work in the industry of primary steel production and metal fab where it is a very helpful tool.
 
Let me clarify for my self hydrofoils = big uglies = sponsons?
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Hydrofoils are dolphin tail-looking things that you put on your motor at the cavitation plate. Supposed to help with getting the boat up on plane...
 
Yes I have experience with them - had them on a 70hp Johnson helped in getting the boat on plane - actually do work I think the brand was Dol-Phins

Anyone know the typical draft of the DH with or without an engine.
 
Received my plans yesterday (less than a week from order date) and quickly reviewed. This is not a stitch n glue construction but a chine and screw. A couple of questions.
Do you bother to seal the plywood and edges prior to assembly, I've seen this recommended even for fiberglassed boats due to Okoume tendency to rot?
What kind of glue do you recommend or adhesive/sealant like 5200?
What kind of fastners - counter sunk galvanized drywall screws from a hardware store?
Thanks in advance
 
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