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Huntindave McCann

Huntindave McCann

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Hi guys,

I need to run a gas supply line to my kitchen to supply a natural gas range. What is the size and type of fitting I need to terminate this line, so that the new flexible connector coming with the stove, will connect up properly. Also how close to the back wall and how far up from the floor should the line terminate?

Thanks
 
Dave,

Can you just look at the flex-hose connection to get the size? That's what I've done when I've run natural gas outside for my grill. As far as the height of the stub, you might want to check with somebody local to see if that dimension is in the building code or just ask at the hardware store. From what I've seen, about 6" seems the norm. Good luck, I've run several gas lines and find it so much easier than anything to do with water.
 
Pete,

I don't have the flex line in hand. It is coming when the range gets delivered and hooked up. I need to have my line in place prior to their arrival. I don't have a hardware or plumbing store in my town so it is not real handy for me. Thanks for your advice tho.
 
It's a code problem
As a layman, if u run the line you are violating code. (sorta like shooting over the limit)
The code is there to protect you. You burn your house down and insurance will not pay. It's not that expensive to run line. Also, do you have the pressure tester? You need 1.5 lbs to 2.0 lbs pressure. Without the proper pressure your stove may not work properly. If you are adding a stove indoors that runs gas, you have to vent as well.

Just some food for thought.

Dutch
 
Dutch,

As the homeowner I am in compliance of the code in regards to doing the work myself. The line presently terminates just below the floor all I have to do is extend it above floor and terminate withthe proper fitting.
 
Dave dont know for sure but I believe that it is 3/8 POL fitting. I am sure you are aware that black pipe should be used and a gas cock used prior to the fitting. Terminate 6" above the floor should be fine.
 
It's a code problem
As a layman, if u run the line you are violating code. (sorta like shooting over the limit)
The code is there to protect you. You burn your house down and insurance will not pay. It's not that expensive to run line. Also, do you have the pressure tester? You need 1.5 lbs to 2.0 lbs pressure. Without the proper pressure your stove may not work properly. If you are adding a stove indoors that runs gas, you have to vent as well.

Just some food for thought.

Dutch
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Dutch, I ask this every time I see someone post this because I'd like an answer.... do you have any examples of insurance not covering a loss due to a homeowner who does uninspected work on his home?

Dave, just call the stove place and ask - it will save you a lot of time trying to figgure it out.

T
 
Hi guys,

I need to run a gas supply line to my kitchen to supply a natural gas range. What is the size and type of fitting I need to terminate this line, so that the new flexible connector coming with the stove, will connect up properly. Also how close to the back wall and how far up from the floor should the line terminate?

Thanks
Click to expand...


I did my own lines for the dryer and stove many years ago. I picked up a muni permit and followed the code, obtained muni inspection to pass the work. No legal issues for that once the muni signed off on the install. The corn belt situation may be different if you are not within an area that has county or city building code enforcement.

I made my hole for the 1/2" pipe centered about 2 inches from the wall. This made for a less than 2 inch gap from the pipe to the wall to spin on the shut off valve. I was too close on the dryer and had to drill another larger hole to get enough room to spin the valve. Code said more than 4 inches off the floor, but I went with 6 for some reason.

By muni code I had to pressure test the installed line with caps on each end. ENSTAR gas rented a pressure testing cap with a schader bike pump fitting and gauge. It had to hold 10psi for some amount of time for the muni inspection. I then had to take off the caps and install the valve and fittings back to the meter. No pressure test on the valves.

There are standard gas fittings for ranges that include a valve, or you can go with a fitting that goes on the NPT pipe (1/2" is typical size but I have seen 3/4"). Some gas lines have a built in shut off valve for ruptures only so you will still need a shut off valve at the end of the pipe. The fitting with a valve tend to be too bulky/square and need even more room to spin on than a standard LP/NG ball valve.

http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=6442

This fitting comes in 1/2 or 3/4 for the pipe size you are using. You would put a ball valve rated for LP or NG use then this fitting on a nipple or get a male version and just make it up into the ball valve.

The use of valves in your gas pipe system seems to cause some inspectors issues. They are allowed by code and make great sense for when you want to remove an appliance but not shut down the whole gas system out at the meter. Inspectors want as few fittings as possible so having a valve on the end of a pipe just does not feel right to them.

Based on my own experience if you are connecting a new line to an old system you should pressure test the whole thing. I found that by opening up my old system and putting in the new pipe, I loosened up the old pipe dope and had lots of leaks in sections of pipe that I had not touched. I ended up taking the whole run back to the meter apart and doping all the joints again. Made for a long night.
 
Where I live they required a shut off valve at the connection to the flexible hose that goes to the stove. They wanted it above the floor, but directly under the floor was OK with the guy that checked it out.

I did have a problem with mine after about a year, but it was because they installed a new meter and it was the wrong size - so I had the wrong pressure in my house. They did help diagnose the problem and put in a new meter. The flame was too yellow to my eye, and seemed to be capable of producing "industrial strength" heat.

1/2 inch and 3/4 inch are both standard. I would guess a stove to be 3/4, but it would be good to check.
 
mine comes a foot out of the floor to a shut off valve then steped down to flex line connector lowes or homedepot has kits with flex line and connectors
 
Dave,
I work for a Natural Gas Utility and mange the Tech's that do our inspections. I would rather not post a bunch of stuff that might be misunderstood, if you would like to call me I'd be glad to answer any questions about Federal Code (which most of your gas suppliers will adhere to). My cell is (302)363-3561. You have gotten some good advise so far and some not so good advise.

Steve
 
Dave,
I work for a Natural Gas Utility and mange the Tech's that do our inspections. I would rather not post a bunch of stuff that might be misunderstood, if you would like to call me I'd be glad to answer any questions about Federal Code (which most of your gas suppliers will adhere to). My cell is (302)363-3561. You have gotten some good advise so far and some not so good advise.

Steve
Click to expand...


Nicely done Steve.
 
1/2" black pipe will be fine for a residential stove. as mentioned, put a 1/2" gas cock close to the floor followed by a 1/2"xshort nipple and 1/2" cap untill the appliance arrives. any big box store,or plumbing supply house will have a flex line for a stove that fits your 1/2" pipe. make sure your gas cock is turned where the handled can be turned in the on and off position and use pipe dope or teflon tape on all threads.
 
Everyone,

Thanks for all the replies, even the advice against using solder.

I have it all under control now. My original confusion stemmed from not knowing that the flex line was set up as a kit with the fitting(s) included. Thanks to Steve for taking his time over the phone. Everyone was helpful.
 
Dont use tape. Pipe dope ,black pipe with a gas cock.1 /2 inch should be the size ,dont forget the dirt tee it needs to be 3" long. as close to the wall as you can get. The length is determined by your stove and connector. All the gas companies I deal with do not want tape. Dont get dope in the pipe.
 
I see you got it covered Dave. Just for future reference. Here is what I did when I needed to have a gas line to my new dyer a few years back. I was going to be charged and arm and a leg to have the applicance guys do it so I read up on it and did the install myself. Nothing too hard. What I did after that was to call the gas company and tell them I smelled gas. I didn't smell it but my wife claimed she did. They came out, measured for gas and found none. They then took a couple things a part and reinstalled perfectly. Professional install done courtesy of the gas company.

I felt bad about having the gas guys have to come to my house but he explained things a little differently to me. He said anytime Ieven think I smell gas, call them up and they will find the leak and fix it if it is a simple thing to do. All at no cost.

Thought this was a great service.

Mark W
 
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