installing outboard on new hull

L

lee kent

Member
I just purchased a new g3 boat hull and want to tranfer my outboard onto it. The boat came rigged with yamaha cables and wiring, so i dont have to fish any wires. I have done research and it does not seem difficult to install motor as long as it is centered and set to correct depth. My local dealership wants 400.00 to swap, is it worth it or should i go for it myself?
 
Dude do it yourself,that's a lot of money,get a buddy or two together and bye them lunch....that's what I did.Never knew my bud could eat to BK whoppers....and fries!
 
Borrow a portable engine hoist & save on the back aches.

The toughest part of the job is drilling "straight" into the transom (if it's angle).

The easiest way to do it is drop the nose till the transom comes level (using a level) & then you should be golden.

Hang the engine & outline the mounting holes with a Sharpie.

Remove the engine & make an "X" in the holes.

Use a punch to mark your dead center on the "X"

Go ahead & drill.

Take a tube of 5200 & run a line on the engine mounting bracket.

Make a circle with the 5200 around the outside bolt holes.

Rehang engine.

Coat the washers with 5200 & slide the bolts through.

Brush on anti-seize on the outside thread & tighten.

Get yourself the rubber end caps, brush on some more 5200 on the ends of the bolts then slide the caps on.

Your done hanging your engine.

If you're running alot in saltwater, I also like mounting a round "through hull" zinc plate with a compression washer below the water line underneath the engine.

Good luck!!!
 
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Hey Cap, how do you get that frigger off when it's time to swap engines with all that 5200? :)
 
When Cheech Kehoe and I put a new ETEC on my snowgoose, we used 5200, and as far as I'm concerned, that means its on there forever....

John
 
Hey Cap, how do you get that frigger off when it's time to swap engines with all that 5200? :)
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We've never had a problem when we removed the engines.

Undue the bolts, score with a razor blade, then pull up on the foot the she'll break free.

Nice thing about the 5200 is it give you a little flexibility & will cut down on vibration between the tramsom & the engine.

It also help the electrolysis.

Even thought you have aluminum on aluminum (unless it's a glass boat), you have electrical currents running from the engine & the hull & if you get a wear spot in a wire, the 5200 will normally slow down the corrosion.

If you're not into using the 5200 where I suggested, at least pint in on the interior bolt holes with a q-tip.
 
take the $400 and buy a jack plate install that 1st then you never need to worry about the motor holes not matching up plus it will give you added flexibility. 5200 is a must as the Capt. said
 
Thank, for the responses! Jeff, where can i by the through hukk?
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Any of the disc shaped rudder/trim tabs will due but the make one specifically for aluminum hulls that have an aluminum compression fitting that seals the hole in the hull.

One last thing I forgot to mention if running aluminum in salt.

Get rid of the bunk carpeting, it causes more hull corrosion than running through the water.

The wet carpet holds the salt & reacts to the aluminum & static electricity in the air.

Seen alot of hulls down this way rot on the trailers & it could have been avoided by just removing the carpeting!!!
 
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