It's June, what's on your cradle?

Pete McMiller

Well-known member
So, let's build a Devlin Poleboat. I've wanted a new skiff for a while now - my Kara just isn't as versitile as I wanted and the Poleboat seems like it will do the job I need it for. The only difficulty with the Poleboat is that, according to the plans, it weighs 95 lbs. and might even go higher than that. Too heavy for me so I am going to build this with weight in mind. To start with, I am using 4mm Okume instead of the specified 6mm. That should help some. Also I am going to use Sitka spruce shear clamps. I'm also going to use less glass and epoxy than is specified - yep I know I'm taking a chance with the finished integrity but I need to know how well this will work. I have 3.25 oz tight weave cloth from RAKA and 4" x 6 oz. tape for the seams. I'm going to show quite a few extra pics for those how want to build a boat but don't know where to start or the steps involved.
OK, this pic is just setting up the plywood for scarfing. I used a 10:1 ratio rather than a typical 8:1 just because of the thickness of the plywood.
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I used a borrowed belt sander with a 40 grit belt to cut it down.
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I think total time was about 45 minutes
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I clamped all four pieces (two scarf joints) at the same time with visqueen between the layers and also top/bottom.
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Rolling epoxy station. I covered the top with visqueen - just makes clean up so much easier.
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I used a little too much epoxy so had to sand the joints down the next day.
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panels cut out after lofting. I stacked the panels on top of each other to make cutting out easier.
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Edges planed even and fair.
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stitching together. I used 18 ga. wire as the panels are only 4mm I didn't want big honking wire busting through when I tightened them. This is actually the second time I stitched it - the first time I used a 1/4" drill bit for spacing and then couldn't open the panels up - too tight. This spacing seemed to work pretty good though I had to tighten a few of them after it was all open.
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These next three are various phases of stitching the shear panels on. I had originally thought I could build this without forms but the 4mm is so flimsy that there was no way to do it and still retain the proper shape of the hull. The forms themselves didn't take too long to construct.
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Last pic for today. Keel and chine inside fillets are done and cured.
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At the moment I am working on the foreward and aft bulkheads as well as the amidship knees. I hope to be able to epoxy them either today or tomorrow.
 
Great Pete, nice lines too. You will like that tight weeve cloth, I used it on my little marsh boat and it finishes really nice.
 
Tod,

I used that same material on my Kara years ago. At the time I didn't know any better but in retrospect I had made a good choice.
 
The only difficulty with the Poleboat is that, according to the plans, it weighs 95 lbs. and might even go higher than that. Too heavy for me so I am going to build this with weight in mind.

Pete,

This will be very interesting to see...been dreaming about building a double ended duck boat for oh...12 years or so, basically since I finished my strip canoe.

How much do traditional Wisconsin skiffs weigh? Part of my procrastination (besides money, time and space) is weather to go traditional, stitch and glue (poleboat) or quick and easy (Kara). Be great seeing this come together.

Chuck
 
Good to see in one of the pics that Otto is supervising this project. Perhaps making sure the craft is stout enough to handle an experienced chessie?
 
Chuck,

That's the difficulty with traditional skiffs. Most that I have seen are way too heavy for me. That's why I wanted to try building the Poleboat. I am pretty sure I can build it light and I hope it will be sturdy enough. We'll see I guess.

I have no doubt that you could build one out of cedar strips that would be light and sturdy. A friend in town builds cedar strip canoes, row boats etc. as well as leasing space to local guys who want to try their hand at it. There is always something interesting going on in his shop. http://www.rockrivercanoe.com/
 
Pete,

Your friend's place looks real neat. I especially like the "Anytime" stripper kayak. If I am ever over your way, we must stop in for a visit and you can introduce me to him.

Good luck on your build, looking good so far.
 
If someone wanted to really push the envelope, using Coosa (or a similar synthetic) would be another option. Coosa is 30% lighter than plywood of the same thickness and strength (and more expensive). It also doesn't absorb water, which would allow you to not worry so much about fiberglass and encapsulation, so you coudl save weight in resin adn glass. It is supposed to be nice stuff, I've never used it, but I'm planning to use it on my bigwater boat rebuild exclusively.

T
 
Pete
Good luck with your build. Being from the old school, I can never be comfortable with that kind of construction. True, our boats were plywood but heavy marine plywood built for the Mississippi river and they did take a beating at times. Just my thoughts Pete from an old fart.
wis boz
 
Pete -
My opinion is that plywood boats can be extremely tough even if you build them from lighter material.

Mine is a 10'4" sneak boat, about 4' wide and covered with kevlar on the outside and s glass on the inside. It weighs about 75-80 pounds. I unloaded it one day at 60mph from the canoe rack on top of my truck. I repaired one seam that popped open (about 18" long). The seam was between the hull and the deck. I have had no issues since.

I also do not recommend this sort of unloading procedure. And I do not use a motor on the boat. I have hooked a trolling motor, but it is more weight and trouble than it is worth.
 
Jim,

I accept the wisdom of your experience, thanks.

Nice thing about modern materials is that there is more strength available for less weight. The plywood I am using is top of the line marine plywood plus epoxy with glass. This skiff isn't intended to be an ice buster in late season as I have a BB3 for that duty. No, this will be for early season skiffing for teal, woodies, mallards, etc. and small lake or pond fishing.
 
Pete, looks great. I bet you will do a fine job if your BB3 is any indication. I can't wait to see more pictures.

Just a question to the board, I see Kevlar added here and there from time to time. I guess guys use it for abrasion resistance and maybe puncture "proofing" their boats. I have read that putting Kevlar on the INSIDE of the boat does a much better job of protecting from a puncture and products like Dynel or others would be better outside for scuffing. Drift boats are one area that I know there are people doing it in this way.

Pete, I know you are not planning on late season ice/rock busting, but the whole outside coating issue comes to mind as I read this thread.
 
Pete,the boat looks great!Keep the pics coming,Are you planning on bringing it to La Crosse in August? Hope things are going well for you,Brian
 
Pete, I was just the other day wondering how your Poleboat project was coming along. I sure do love mine. The light weight ideas sound great, I think mine is a bit lighter than 95#, I'll hang it on the scale one of these days. I am planning to do some bowfishing out of it soon.Looks good, have fun!!
 
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