Laminating boards for Decoys

Neal Haarberg

Neal Haarberg

Active member
I have come across some 2X12 Western Red Ceder that I want to glue up thick enough to do some Decoys. My question is what adhesive should I use? Do I need an Epoxy or Will TiteBond II work. I have only carved foamers and 1 wood decoy up to this point and it was a the wood was a solid block.

Thanks,
Neal
 
any glue would work, I would at least use TB III of all the glues as it is rated exterior. Seal well with spar varnish or your choice. should be fine. May not hold up perfectly if you abuse them, but if they are like most decoys, will be servicable.

If you want to perfection, epoxy is better.

Careful with WRC it is know carcinogen and can really wreck havoc with your lungs/sinuses/allergies. WEAR A MASK!!
 
Careful with WRC it is know carcinogen and can really wreck havoc with your lungs/sinuses/allergies. WEAR A MASK!!
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All wood contains carocengens...yes, WRC does have a higher concentration, but there is no wood dust that is healthy to breath.

I prefer TB 2 over TB3 for any decoy application, or for that matter, any wood gluing applications. If you are worried about water resistance, use epoxy.

If you have the capability, you might want to plain them down, temporarly mate them with screws, carve it, unscrew it, hollow it, and then finally glue it.

Chuck
 
I have come across some 2X12 Western Red Ceder that I want to glue up thick enough to do some Decoys. My question is what adhesive should I use? Do I need an Epoxy or Will TiteBond II work. I have only carved foamers and 1 wood decoy up to this point and it was a the wood was a solid block.

Thanks,
Neal
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I've made a grand total of 14 decoys that way (as described in Grayson's The Century Old Way) and they all look good after more than 10 years. I glued 7 with TBII and 7 with epoxy, both show no problems. Neither group was a rig that I used a lot, though.

Next time I did it, I'd go with epoxy since I like epoxy better because it costs more.

T
 
Brian, I think I may have that article at home. I do recall reading it at some point. I'll look it up this weekend.

Tod, Thanks for you input and I got a chuckle out your response.

Chuck, Thanks for the warning on WRC. I am well aware of the issues with it and it's kind of like a bee sting. Some people have very serious reactions to breathing the dust. I will not be power carving so to the dust will be kept to a minimum. I carved some heads with it a few years ago and did some research on the subject at that time.

So what am I going to use.... I don't know yet. I have a bunch Titebond II and recently gave away my last bit of epoxy and I believe I have some gorilla glue hiding in my shop somewhere. Ideally I can slip the best adhesive of choice into the budget of another "household" project. Of couse then it would a poor choice because it would have no value on the books. hmmm what to do....
 
I'll second what Chuck said but I prefer TBII.
Although I'm using TBIII with my present birds, John
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John, you are the 27th guy I've read that likes TBII better than III. I've never used III or read any formal reviews on it, but I did just kill a gallon for II I've had for forever. Other than price (or is it price?), why do you like II better? I'm fine with II for what I use it for, so I'm mostly curious.
 
Tod,
It's not a hard and fast thing but TBII gives me a little more working time and seems to finish better.
I may adjust to the III but as long as you seal your bird well the II has never given me any trouble.
I use it on white pine,2x10,bass and black cork all with great results.
I've used a lot of TBII mixed with cork dust to fill voids and it's the best thing I've found.
Some of my cork birds are over 10 years old and in great shape, John
 
I thought it was just me, but I too also like TBII better than TBIII. Why? I just like the way it works. I've got many decoys with laminated heads that are more than a do years old and they have held up just fine.

John
 
I thought it was just me, but I too also like TBII better than TBIII. Why? I just like the way it works. I've got many decoys with laminated heads that are more than a do years old and they have held up just fine.

John
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Thanks guys, I've always been happy with it for my use.
 
I don't have any Titebond II experience, started with Titebond III. I know when I tried to take apart some western cedar joints that I glued and screwed, the wood failed, not the glue (of coarse I removed the screws first). What properties do you prefer in the II over the III? Someone mentioned working time? This has not been an issue for me. I tend to assembly everything and then take it apart and glue it up so everything fits good before I commit to the glue.
 
I don't have any Titebond II experience, started with Titebond III. I know when I tried to take apart some western cedar joints that I glued and screwed, the wood failed, not the glue (of coarse I removed the screws first). What properties do you prefer in the II over the III? Someone mentioned working time? This has not been an issue for me. I tend to assembly everything and then take it apart and glue it up so everything fits good before I commit to the glue.
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Maybe we can get a good ole fashioned TB II vs TB III debate going! Seriously, that was why I asked, lot of guys say they like II over III.
 
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