Layout Boat Repair - Bad Luck this week!

P

Paul Tychsen

Active member
My last 2 trips on the water, a boat was taken out of the fleet for repair. The Wigeon last week, this week the layout.

I built this layout from the Marshmonster plans about 5 years ago. Below is a picture taken this week of her most recent hunt:

View attachment Layout1.jpg

After returning from the hunt yesterday, we noticed water draining from the layout. After closer examination, it was coming from a bulkhead. A lot of water drained out (gallons). The boat was noticeably heavy getting it back atop the truck - probably 20-30lbs heavier.

When we got home, I got the drill out to take a look inside. To my dismay, looks like there had been water inside for quite some time. The Luan underlayment used to sheath the layout was all rotted. The framing pieces don't seem bad (can't dig my nail in).

A picture of the damage:
[inline layout2.jpg]

Everything on the cockpit side of the bulkhead is solid with no signs of water instrusion - really there is no place for water to go there that isn't exposed. Plus it's glassed inside and out.

My thought is to rip all the skin off the bulkhead, let it breath for ? 2 weeks ?. Then drill holes into all the structural pieces and pour in Git-Rot. Then I plan to re-sheath with Luan and re-glass that end. The only thing that worries me a little is not getting it all out. For those familiar with the marshmonster plans, a Luan "Oval" is laid out at the start, which is the footprint for the boat. This Luan oval is basically a cross-section of the boat at water-level (a 10ft long "0" with a rectangle cut out of the middle for the coffin). I am worried that the water will wick along the luan. On the good side of the bulkhead wall, everything is solid...but there may be that 1/2" of wet Luan leading into the solid area. I suppose my best bet is just to leave it open and allow it to dry out - then wipe Git-Rot on the exposed Luan edge).

Any thoughts if this is the right path forward?

I am also contemplating leaving a drain-plug on the bulkhead to keep an eye on things in the future. Perhaps one on top, so I can flip the layout over when not in use and leave the plug out just in case.

I realize most people would toss the boat and buy a fiberglass one, but this was my first build - not getting rid of it anytime soon.

Thanks guys!
Paul and Canvas

View attachment Layout2.jpg
 
Paul~

Sorry for your troubles - esp. 2 boats at the same time.

I am not familiar with these boats but built a similar ('glass over ply) layout years ago. We used foam for floataion and had no enclosed spaces. My two initial reactions are:

1) Wooden boats of any kind need to manage condensation in enclosed spaces. So, if I had a floatation chamber (s), I would install inspection plates - mostly to allow air to exchange off-season. (I just did this when building White-Wing: http://stevenjaysanford.com/white-wing-2-man-scooter/#jp-carousel-1866 )

2) The volume of water you describe sure sounds like a leak. Was plywood fastened to framimg with 3M 5200 or other mrine adhesive caulk? I would certainly do so during repairs, etc.

3) Can you get her into a heated space? A wood stove would sure help dry the wood out - and you do want it 100% dry before re-enclosing.

These are just quick thoughts - best of luck with the repair.

SJS


http://stevenjaysanford.com/white-wing-2-man-scooter/#jp-carousel-1866
 

You should have coated the inside with epoxy and sealed all of the inside to make water tight compartments. You should have coated the under-side of the Luan deck before secured it to the frame. Also, you could have put foam board in the sealed compartment similar to the attachment.

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View attachment MyBoat20001.jpg
 
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You should have coated the inside with epoxy and sealed all of the inside to make water tight compartments. You should have coated the under-side of the Luan deck before secured it to the frame. Also, you could have put foam board in the sealed compartment similar to the attachment.

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Click to expand...
I know a lot of guys on this site like epoxy but iam old school and do every thing with polyester resin ,mat and 1708 biaxial cloths and tapes....you could also go to your local home improvement store and pick up Dow Tuff R it is blue insulation board with foil that can be classed and won't get eaten from the resin.you could cut all those wood supports out and replace with the foam board.When iam not commercial fishing Iam building Down East Boats
 
Git-Rot, in order to work properly, requires DRY wood, it won't displace moisture. I suspect you will have to hold the boat out of commission for some time unless you can get it into a warm, low humidity environment. Read that as a de-humidifier and a heat source of some kind in a building. Keep in mind, fiberglas resin is not water impermeable (see comments above regarding sealing interior spaces and bulkheads prior re-installing the decking), it only serves to provide abrasion resistance and a barrier that slows moisture penetration significantly;it will absorb water on continuous exposure over time. Luan is primarily used as an underlayment. As such, it may not be the best choice for an application like this. I have constructed silhouettes from it, but I literally soaked them in a tub containing a 1:1:1 mix of marine spar varnish, mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil for several days prior initiating the painting process. Obviously, they don't experience the degree or duration of water exposure and immersion a boat hull would.
 
Pat - it appears the water entered where the towing portion of the coffin box (the ramp) met the Luan Oval I referenced earlier. Basically right at the water-line. This was a tough area to fiberglass for a beginner and I did a sloppy job. I didn't use fiberglass tape. I laid on glass and had to sand it off and re-lay a couple times until it appeared protected/sealed reasonably well.

(also of note, water was draining from multiple locations. I hypothesize water entered in 1 location, froze, and created more small holes)

I also realize Luan is not meant as a marine product. This was really a budget boat build during college and I blindly followed the plans (which there were a couple of errors in I should add). Besides Luan, any thoughts on what thin material (wood I assume) I could use in place of the Luan? It would have to be very bendable, as the curves are quite aggressive. If there is no good alternative, I plan to use Luan once again, but paint the underside. Then I plan to put a couple of drain plugs in the top of the bulkhead to permit flipping the boat over occasionally to get any water out and allow a small amount of ventilation in the off-season.

Thanks for the advice guys. She is drying in a garage right now and will be for some weeks.
 
Paul~

I used 1/4" AC plywood for the similar layout we built (my plans). I have seen lauan that is made for underlayment (it usually has end-grain as its inner ply) and lauan made more like conventional plywood (grain of inner inner ply runs in same plane as outer grain). BTW: I would always use marine ply on the hull bottom of any boat that takes a motor.

As I envision your "coffin-to-hull" joint, you probably want a radiused fillet with thickened epoxy and a layer or 2 of tape . You can make tape out of cloth - esp. if you cut on the bias (45 degrees) so more strands take the load. Sounds, too, like you might need a run of tape all around the perimeter to seal any other leaks. Tape is inexpensive if you buy it in large rolls from 'glass suppliers. I have been very happy with U. S. Composites (which I learned of on this site) - good prices on marine epoxy, too.

Also, I again urge you to put a Beckson inspection plate in the bulkheads - instead of drain plugs. They are easier to install watertight and let much more air in - and also they will let in your arm with a nice sponge to remove any water.

Best of luck,

SJS
 
Very good direction and advice...!
Paul~

I used 1/4" AC plywood for the similar layout we built (my plans). I have seen lauan that is made for underlayment (it usually has end-grain as its inner ply) and lauan made more like conventional plywood (grain of inner inner ply runs in same plane as outer grain). BTW: I would always use marine ply on the hull bottom of any boat that takes a motor.

As I envision your "coffin-to-hull" joint, you probably want a radiused fillet with thickened epoxy and a layer or 2 of tape . You can make tape out of cloth - esp. if you cut on the bias (45 degrees) so more strands take the load. Sounds, too, like you might need a run of tape all around the perimeter to seal any other leaks. Tape is inexpensive if you buy it in large rolls from 'glass suppliers. I have been very happy with U. S. Composites (which I learned of on this site) - good prices on marine epoxy, too.

Also, I again urge you to put a Beckson inspection plate in the bulkheads - instead of drain plugs. They are easier to install watertight and let much more air in - and also they will let in your arm with a nice sponge to remove any water.

Best of luck,

SJS
Click to expand...
 
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