LL bean decoys?
- Thread starter Bill Ferrar
- Start date
Bernie Brown
New member
Since Steve brought up the subject of keels, can I put out an idea that I am about to try on some Bean goose blocks. I "inherited" the from a friend a few years ago in rough shape. I used Steve's tutorials to get them into hunting shape, and I am not ashamed at my first decoy project. The issue I have is rigging them. I don't like to wrap line around cork blocks with a final wrap around the neck (which is what amateurs like me do). I am thinking of cutting channel in the vertical edges of the keel with a rattail file so the decoy line will stay wrapped as my partner rows and I pick up. I am thing that the addition of a small brass screw eye on the aft end of the keel to put a final wrap to keep the anchor tight without swinging about will improve our rig in & out. Anybody have a "foolproof" system for rigging in in the dark and picking up quick when it's time to get the heck out of Dodge?
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Bernie~
A challenging subject! Nothing wrong or amateurish about your current method - it's been the standard for a long, long time. The obvious downside is wear to the neck and chest paint on your decoys. I still wrap my Broadbill (Herter's Model 72s) rig this way, with ring anchors over the heads.
I still wrap my decoys around their bodies but now use compartmented/slotted decoy bags (with partitions sewn to the bottom of the bag. I use mushroom anchors (or just sinkers for my small-water rigs) and let them drop to the bottom of the bag.
IF I were going to wrap my lines lengthwise around a flat keel like your Bean's, I might add another "false keel" - maybe 1/4-inch AC plywood (thoroughly sealed with spar varnish or epoxy) and at least and inch wider and longer than the existing keel - to serve as a lip. And, each end would be round in plan view. (Or, you could fasten a large (2" ?) fender washer flat on each end.) This serves the same purpose as cutting a groove with a rattail rasp - but much easier to do AND would provide a deeper space for the line. (I can send a drawing later)
Securing the anchor on the keel is trickier. I like the bottoms of my decoys to be free of anything that might snag lines when in use. So, I use no hardware. If your anchor will fit over either end of the keel, you may still need to add something stretchy (shock cord) in-line so your anchors are held snugly.
BTW: How many Geese in your rig? How long are your anchor lines?
Hope this helps,
SJS
A challenging subject! Nothing wrong or amateurish about your current method - it's been the standard for a long, long time. The obvious downside is wear to the neck and chest paint on your decoys. I still wrap my Broadbill (Herter's Model 72s) rig this way, with ring anchors over the heads.
I still wrap my decoys around their bodies but now use compartmented/slotted decoy bags (with partitions sewn to the bottom of the bag. I use mushroom anchors (or just sinkers for my small-water rigs) and let them drop to the bottom of the bag.
IF I were going to wrap my lines lengthwise around a flat keel like your Bean's, I might add another "false keel" - maybe 1/4-inch AC plywood (thoroughly sealed with spar varnish or epoxy) and at least and inch wider and longer than the existing keel - to serve as a lip. And, each end would be round in plan view. (Or, you could fasten a large (2" ?) fender washer flat on each end.) This serves the same purpose as cutting a groove with a rattail rasp - but much easier to do AND would provide a deeper space for the line. (I can send a drawing later)
Securing the anchor on the keel is trickier. I like the bottoms of my decoys to be free of anything that might snag lines when in use. So, I use no hardware. If your anchor will fit over either end of the keel, you may still need to add something stretchy (shock cord) in-line so your anchors are held snugly.
BTW: How many Geese in your rig? How long are your anchor lines?
Hope this helps,
SJS
Vince Pagliaroli
Well-known member
Bernie -
I do not wrap wet anchor line tight around any wood, cork, and canvas covered decoys. I leave it a tad loose. Dry it after the hunt, then rewrap.
As for the final wrap around the head. I will do it, if it is a decoy that I made, and that I can trust as much as possible. Prior to rigging my decoys they must pass the "Back Yard Test". They get thrown, and tossed around the back yard several times to see if they pass or fail.
As for the keels notched to hold line. I have made them on several decoys. In theory they seem to be helpful, and on calm, take yer time days can work. Other than that, they are a PITA, especially with long lines and heavy anchors.
Seems like nothing is Fool Proof, but we sure do try.
Having everything in order, stowed ,and ready to go, setting decoys out in the dark is not much of a problem. The more experience the better, you learn from your mistakes, and prepare.
Picking up when things get Fugly. It's boat hook, net, paddle, or whatever means there are to prevent leaning over the side. Gettem In and go!
Once safe you will have time to sort things out, wrap lines, and prepare for the next hunt.
If you have a good hunting partner, you will work in unison with few to no words spoken. You each know the drill, and the job that needs done as safely as possible.
When hunting alone, it's all on you. So be prepared.
my 2 cents
Best regards
Vince
I do not wrap wet anchor line tight around any wood, cork, and canvas covered decoys. I leave it a tad loose. Dry it after the hunt, then rewrap.
As for the final wrap around the head. I will do it, if it is a decoy that I made, and that I can trust as much as possible. Prior to rigging my decoys they must pass the "Back Yard Test". They get thrown, and tossed around the back yard several times to see if they pass or fail.
As for the keels notched to hold line. I have made them on several decoys. In theory they seem to be helpful, and on calm, take yer time days can work. Other than that, they are a PITA, especially with long lines and heavy anchors.
Seems like nothing is Fool Proof, but we sure do try.
Having everything in order, stowed ,and ready to go, setting decoys out in the dark is not much of a problem. The more experience the better, you learn from your mistakes, and prepare.
Picking up when things get Fugly. It's boat hook, net, paddle, or whatever means there are to prevent leaning over the side. Gettem In and go!
Once safe you will have time to sort things out, wrap lines, and prepare for the next hunt.
If you have a good hunting partner, you will work in unison with few to no words spoken. You each know the drill, and the job that needs done as safely as possible.
When hunting alone, it's all on you. So be prepared.
my 2 cents
Best regards
Vince
Troy Fields
Well-known member
Tim, I was lucky enough to come across a dozen of older Bean eiders this past winter. I kept a few as original and I am having the others repainted by various people I have hunted with. Steve Sanford being one of the people who has a pair. Once I get them all I'll take some pictures and post them up. View attachment 001.JPGView attachment 006.JPGView attachment 004.JPG
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Troy~
Your pair will be heading north later this week.....
All the best,
SJS
Your pair will be heading north later this week.....
All the best,
SJS
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Mark et al~
From my experience, any decoys made from black (aka brown aka refrigerator) cork need to be well-sealed. As they dry out, they will take on lots of water and ultimately begin to crumble - if they don't sink first. I have also heard tales of such decoys - if frozen - have "exploded" when dropped on the water, leaving only the heads and keels attached to the anchor lines.
I soak any cork birds (Beans, Wildfowlers, McCormicks) with Spar Varnish, then prime with flat oil paint - then topcoat with latex. I am working on some Beans and some McCormicks right now. Anyone wanting to hunt black cork birds for many seasons without such maintenance is asking for disappointment, in my experience.
I have seen lots of tail section breakage in Beans. I've always thought they needed much longer tail inserts - to extend further into the body.
BTW: I also prefer to glue 1/4-inch AC plywood to the bottoms - to protect the edges and to help fasten hardware and keels.
All the best,
SJS
From my experience, any decoys made from black (aka brown aka refrigerator) cork need to be well-sealed. As they dry out, they will take on lots of water and ultimately begin to crumble - if they don't sink first. I have also heard tales of such decoys - if frozen - have "exploded" when dropped on the water, leaving only the heads and keels attached to the anchor lines.
I soak any cork birds (Beans, Wildfowlers, McCormicks) with Spar Varnish, then prime with flat oil paint - then topcoat with latex. I am working on some Beans and some McCormicks right now. Anyone wanting to hunt black cork birds for many seasons without such maintenance is asking for disappointment, in my experience.
I have seen lots of tail section breakage in Beans. I've always thought they needed much longer tail inserts - to extend further into the body.
BTW: I also prefer to glue 1/4-inch AC plywood to the bottoms - to protect the edges and to help fasten hardware and keels.
All the best,
SJS
Troy Fields
Well-known member
That great Steve, Thanks again for putting your touches on this decoy line.
Troy
Troy