Looking for Arthur Armstrong photos, tips, ideas

M

M. Schulz

Member
Just acquired one and am very enthusiastically anticipating the coming season. Work had originally tried to take away the first half of my season, then canceled my trip, then I found this gem! Ok, it isn't perfect but it's an '82 hull so there's some wear and tear. Planning on a light long tail and possibly blind doors to mimic the momarsh style but a little shorter. Any ideas are welcome and pictures say much more.
 
Cant speak to the light long tail motor but copper head has some very light surfaces drives.

As far a flip door blind check out fourrivers boats they make a set of long and short flip doors and the price aint to bad for the quility of the product you get.

Hope this info helps sir.
 
Which AA hull did you get? Blackjack, Broadbill Or widgeon. I,ve got a blackjack myself that i,ve set up with dodger and blind doors. Ended up converting blind doors , made like field layout blind doors to lap curtain . Like that better. Also built upright blind that rolls down and stows along cockpit combing. Thats what I use mostly.
 
my apologies, thought that I included the boat model in the subject line. its a wigeon. I tried to post pictures but theyre too large.
 
where are you located? Buddy has a 10hp longtail for sale in Northern VA. Will be in Tuckerton in August and September....
 
I'm in Massachusetts but will actually be in VA this weekend. PM the details or let me know how I can contact this buddy.
 
I've never heard that a long tail can put undue stress on a transom when under the hp and weight limits as I'm working towards. If the transom is rated for a 9.9 then I'm assuming about 80lbs for a 2 stroke since the hull is an '82. As far as stress on the transom, I guess I'm hoping that the lower hp and angle will help keep it in good condition for at least two more years before I take it apart and invest a bit more time and energy into it.
 
Look at an outboard motor mount versus a long tail. The long tail sits a top the transom and secures with at best three inches of coverage; whereas the outboard displaces down the transom for about 8-10 inches.
 
Yes longtail mud motors put much more stress on a transom vs an outboard of similar hp. Most longtails of similar hp also weigh much more.
 
I've had a surface drive mud motor in the past, which was excessively heavy and clearly put a great deal of stress on the transom (cracked it and the support brace) but by most accounts the 6.5hp kit motors are pretty tame. I appreciate the heads up and thoughts on the motor.
 
Yep big difference between and 25 hp longtail and a mini 6.5. But still might be worth reinforcing the transom just for insurance
 
Couldn't agree more. Knowing of potential for problem on the water, especially in the winter, is reckless at best. These are factory hulls that were minimally built. Add in two and half to three decades of time and its not if you will have a problem its when.

These hulls ride low in the water and when out with mine crabbing this week I noticed my corners a few inches under water when cornering. Add a crack anywhere and you will be taking on water really fast.
 
if the widgeons top cap and hull meet as a sandwich as in the blackjack hull does rear corners and where transome motor pad is located is where most leaks start. My blackjack was simply pop riveted together with no adhesive or silicone sealent between that i could find. The trim molding was the only deterant to water leaking thru from hard cornering or motor spray. That water will collect in rear flotation boxes and eventually lead to wood transome and boxes deteriateing. The trim molding type they used on these hulls (taco sandwich sail boat molding) doesn,t make a great seal on rear corners.On an older hull might be a good idea to drill a couple weap holes in bottom of flotation boxes to check for water infiltration from that leak area. Rear lift handle screw holes can also leak over time with same result.
 
All good info. Yall have me thinking i'll stick to my trolling motor. Hopefully that wont sink me will it? guess I could save myself a bunch of money and stress on the transom in that case. At the end of the day it may be a more conservative and safe approach despite the slow speed. The 40lb thrust I have will run pretty long on a full battery charge and a new battery is much cheaper than the effort of putting together the little kit long tails and then having it fail on me after dragging me out a mile or two from the ramp or worse yet-creating a leak that I can fix on the run...
The trolling motor has pushed a loaded 14' canoe just fine in the past with a makeshift transom, so I imagine this little thing will scoot just fine. ok...enough about the motors!


what about some other ideas for the rig?
I'd like to put the storage/vegetation rails along the front for cargo tie-down and vegetation retention, though I know its a significant undertaking. Has anyone pop-riveted nylon webbing into theirs? I feel like this would give me the ability to get grass in there similar to a layout blind and if I use thick enough webbing, I can bungee down decoy bags for transport.
 
I beleive the widgeon was rated for a 10h.p. outboard. All the older 2 stroke Mercury outboards come in at roughly 75 lbs. from 8 to 15 h.p. Not sure about other makes but one of those smaller outboards shouldnt weight you down to much. I,ve pop riveted black nylon pad eyes about every 2' along perimeter of top deck and installed 5/16" bungee along same area with an X created across front deck for attaching grass. Better yet get you some lightweight black plastic garden fenceing from lowes, etc. cut out a pattern to cover entire top of boat. Attach grass or rafia to this and cable tie this to bungee thats run thru pad eyes on boat. Then you can simply take the whole unit off when not in use and store out of weather.
 
Also a good idea. Thanks Roy. I've done this for my kayak and it works well. I guess I was thinking about how very natural looking I've worked my layout blind into being by using very local vegetation.
 
I have had a 10HP on my wigeon for about 20 years. As noted above, it weighs about 75lbs. That or a 15 (same weight on a 2 stroke) will work fine and won't stress your transom. I believe that the wigeon is rated for 7-1/2(mine is not at home or I would go look). The 10 will push it around 15mph loaded up, I think a 4 stroke is around 110. Anything smaller and you probably won't be able to get on plane. A trolling motor with battery won't save you much weight, but will limit you on how far you can go and how fast you can get there. I am not a fan of trolling motors in tidal water, no power and limited range. If you need to go a few hundred yards, probably not an issue but if you are going farther than that you are really cutting in to your hunting time and mobility. I found that adding a shelf under and along the inside of the gunwale made a big difference, the little ones that come on it are not of much use for anything. I have also added a couple of layers of glass over the years, really strengthened the hull.
 
I believe the AA Wigeon is designed to plane with no less than a 7.5hp based on what I've read. In any case, I agree with the limit of the troller but the cost/benefit makes sense based on my waters...for now. I know that a 9.9 would open up a whole new world to me and it makes sense if I can afford it, which is why I say maybe use the trolling motor for a season to see how it goes and then move up from there. As a military man, i'll have to move in two years, and if its overseas, I get to go through the process of selling off many things (again) and a motor is a big investment in my eyes if I'm just going to give it up in 18 months.

having said all that, I do like the idea of 15 mph vice putting around...
 
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