Looking for some advice - again

[Mark W]

The motor on my duckboat is a 1996 Evinrude 15hp. To say that motor sees awful environments is an understatement. As mentioned previously, it gets run through muck and sand quite a bit.

The motor has run like a champ ever since owning it which is a long time. Only service work done by me is the simple stuff - spark plugs, lower unit gear fluid and a couple of other things. Otherwise, it has been left alone.

Motor still runs like a champ as far as i can tell. I did have an issue this season right at the end when it was real cold where the recoil start wouldn't recoil. I was able to hand rewind it and eventually get the motor going. Took the cover off when I got home and removed the recoil mechanism screws and found out there was some metal rod attached to it I couldn't get removed at that time (it was very cold, it was the end of duck season, and just spraying some PB Blaster into the mechanism got it back to working again. I can look at this again when it warms up around here.

Maybe the adage of no need to fix something that ain't broke applies here but I want someone to look it over for me. While it pees and everything, the stream isn't strong and I have to believe the impeller and housing has to be worn. Who knows what else may be in there.

My question. I've gone online and while it doesn't look too hard to take the lower unit off and get to the housing and impeller, years of wrencing on other stuff provides insight that things are never as easy as one initially thinks. I have done my own work on our speedboat, jetski and SXS, cars, and never had any issues. Just take my time and be patient. Never done an outboard motor and I'm at that point in my life where I may just prefer to keep someone else employed . Thoughts? Something easy enough to do with unlimited time or let the pro's handle it?

Thanks -

Mark

 

[tod osier]

The motor on my duckboat is a 1996 Evinrude 15hp. To say that motor sees awful environments is an understatement. As mentioned previously, it gets run through muck and sand quite a bit.

The motor has run like a champ ever since owning it which is a long time. Only service work done by me is the simple stuff - spark plugs, lower unit gear fluid and a couple of other things. Otherwise, it has been left alone.

Motor still runs like a champ as far as i can tell. I did have an issue this season right at the end when it was real cold where the recoil start wouldn't recoil. I was able to hand rewind it and eventually get the motor going. Took the cover off when I got home and removed the recoil mechanism screws and found out there was some metal rod attached to it I couldn't get removed at that time (it was very cold, it was the end of duck season, and just spraying some PB Blaster into the mechanism got it back to working again. I can look at this again when it warms up around here.

Maybe the adage of no need to fix something that ain't broke applies here but I want someone to look it over for me. While it pees and everything, the stream isn't strong and I have to believe the impeller and housing has to be worn. Who knows what else may be in there.

My question. I've gone online and while it doesn't look too hard to take the lower unit off and get to the housing and impeller, years of wrencing on other stuff provides insight that things are never as easy as one initially thinks. I have done my own work on our speedboat, jetski and SXS, cars, and never had any issues. Just take my time and be patient. Never done an outboard motor and I'm at that point in my life where I may just prefer to keep someone else employed . Thoughts? Something easy enough to do with unlimited time or let the pro's handle it?

Thanks -

Mark

Easy job. Get a rebuild kit and do the whole pump. Since it hasn't been apart, need to be mindful of seized bolts.

Watch a youtube or two, the only problem I've ever had is that sometimes the shift linkages can give you some trouble (knowing the position they are in or the position they are supposed to be in is useful). Some motors you can get them back together and not get the tube from the pump up the the powerhead properly installed (so the water doesn't make it to the powerhead), but that is obvious and minor too if you watch a video or two.

 

[Mark W]

Yeah, seizes bolts, the shift linkage and the metal key are the areas I?m concerned about. I have plenty of time to fry myself but have learned it always costs more to have someone fix ones mistakes verses just having someone do it the first time.

Thanks Tod -

Mark

 

[Carl]

I've done impeller replacements and its relatively easy.
As Tod noted, lots of videos to help.
If the lower unit has not been dropped for a long time, then I agree seized bolts may be the biggest issue. Dont put to much pressure on them, breaking one off is bad news.
I found that out on a thermostat replacement. [frown]

 

[Steve Sanford]

Mark~


I've rebuilt numerous water pumps on Evinrudes and Johnsons - much, much easier than the one Merc I did....


Nevertheless, it is fairly straightforward, BUT - if you hunt saltwater - the machine screws that hold the inspection plate on the side of the shaft could be seized. The plate allows access for you to uncouple/couple the shifter linkage.


Soaking with PB Blaster - over a few days if necessary - can save some heartache.


All the best,


SJS

 

[Dani]

Soaking with PB Blaster - over a few days if necessary - can save some heartache.

Or Kroil.....the oil that creeps....LOVE IT!!!!!!!!

 

[Huntindave McCann]

The motor on my duckboat is a 1996 Evinrude 15hp.

While it pees and everything, the stream isn't strong and I have to believe the impeller and housing has to be worn.

Just take my time and be patient. Never done an outboard motor and I'm at that point in my life where I may just prefer to keep someone else employed . Thoughts? Something easy enough to do with unlimited time or let the pro's handle it?

Thanks -

Mark

Mark,
(A) I can almost guarantee you the impellor needs replaced.
(B) Real easy to just replace the impellor and I would not be overly concerned with frozen bolts in fresh water use. A lot depends on how many years ago it was last opened up.
(C) Do you get ANY water intrusion into the lower unit oil? If so, take it to a professional and let them know you want ALL the seals changed as well as the water pump impellor and a pressure test when done. A gearcase seal kit will run about $60.00

 

[Bill Ferrar]

I have that same engine. The water pump is easy, as Tod said watch a few u tube post
.
Keep in mind after you remove the lower unit bolts, you have to separate the the lower unit about 1/2'' then find the shift linkage bolt, loose the bolt to separate the linkage.

Some engine there is an access plate. I believe the older 15 would have an access plate.

I add never seize to my bolts, not sure if it is the right thing to do. I never have salt seized lower unit bolts.

Fyi, you may want to check or change the thermostat while you are working on the water cooling system.

 

[Mark W]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I used to do all the work on my old sportscar and if I can replace turbo's and clutches on a rear transmission car, I can probably do this. Maybe it just comes down to motivation, or the other side - laziness.

I have seen some videos and while I can't find my exact model, they all appear to be pretty much the same.

We have owned the motor for a long long time (didn't buy it new) and it has never been taken apart by us. Don't hunt salt so hopefully no frozen bolts.

No water in the lower gearcase. Just changed that out this past season. It was clumpy a little but it hadn't been changed for a very long time. Once again, all my fault.

Someone mentioned changing the thermostat while I'm at it. And Dave mentioned lower unit seal kit. Anything I should be looking at should I decide to tackle myself?

Thanks again. Won't be working on this until it gets warmer come March or so. Don't want to bring it into the basement and don' t want to work in the cold either.

Look for more questions come March.

Any suggestions on best place to order parts?

Mark

 

[Ed L.]

Mark, in my area that water pump job is now $300. It's intimidating if you've never done one but that 15hp is easy peasy. The hardest part is getting the shift linkage back together. Just unscrew the lower bolt only and don't turn the shaft. There are several really good YouTube vids on it. Go for it. Oh, and the recoil isn't bad either. Take pictures so you remember how the anti kick back lever attaches. The one thing I'd suggest is get a nut to place on the bolt keeping the spring from uncoiling once you pull the recoil out. After all these years I'd be inclined to replacing the rope and handle. These can be ordered from Amazon cheaper than marine shop. I'd suggest spraying the spring with some dry Teflon lube. That seemed to work best on my motor.

Replace The Starting Pull Cord Recoil Unit on Evinrude Outboard Motor 15HP - Bing video

Good luck.

 

[Mark W]

Mark, in my area that water pump job is now $300. It's intimidating if you've never done one but that 15hp is easy peasy. The hardest part is getting the shift linkage back together. Just unscrew the lower bolt only and don't turn the shaft. There are several really good YouTube vids on it. Go for it. Oh, and the recoil isn't bad either. Take pictures so you remember how the anti kick back lever attaches. The one thing I'd suggest is get a nut to place on the bolt keeping the spring from uncoiling once you pull the recoil out. After all these years I'd be inclined to replacing the rope and handle. These can be ordered from Amazon cheaper than marine shop. I'd suggest spraying the spring with some dry Teflon lube. That seemed to work best on my motor.

Replace The Starting Pull Cord Recoil Unit on Evinrude Outboard Motor 15HP - Bing video

Good luck.

Thanks Ed. The shift linkage looks to be the "hardest" part but not all that bad.

The video link provided is from an older motor unfortunately. I've replaced recoil units on other things and it was never an issue. When I had to do a field repair on the recoil and took the motor cover off, there is a linkage that prevents the recoil mechanism from coming off. I didn't spend any time examining it closely and hopefully it is easy to do. Just didn't want to get it apart in the field and then be unable to put it back together. Quick spray of some PB Blaster fixed the problem for the week or two I had left in the season but I don't trust it will stay "fixed"

 

[David Clites]

Mark, there are many good sources for Johnson/Evinrude parts even on Outboards made in the 1960's or even 1950's. So your 1996 is relatively new with parts relatively easy to get. One supplier I have used often is MarineEngine.com because they have Exploded View Assembly Diagrams on their site (as do other suppliers--although a supplier I USED TO buy from--"SeaWay--no longer hosts the diagrams). You may find individual parts a bit cheaper buying "onesie twosie" on Amazon or Ebay but if you are buying a full Water Pump Kit and Starter Rope you will find MarineEngine comprehensive and painless to order from via either their online shopping or place an order talking to a live person by phone. Just know your Model Number and exact p/n's you want to buy.
The "take it slow" and "take photos" advice other have given on the Water Pump replacement is very accurate. If you're an experienced DIY mechanic you probably have some favorite tricks with soaking and heat to loosen seized fasteners. Upon reassembly be sure to grease the Driveshaft where it goes into the Crankshaft so in another 26 years nobody will find that seized--a very common but difficult problem. These OMC motors can run for many years, a couple years back I sold my 1969 6hp (wish I didn't now!) and it ran like new even after 10 years or so of saltwater usage. DIY on this including Pump Housing will run about $50, a lot better than $300 (which I am sure is accurate in many areas).
Some experts will argue that on a 26 year old motor you Lower Unit Seals are due for a change. I dunno...on a freshwater motor that has never been in salt, and shows no milky gear oil or other signs of leakage you might want to tackle that job separately waiting another year or two. Especially if you change the Gear Oil annually...
But don't delay that Recoil Starter Rope Repair. If the rope breaks or you have something else malfunctioning in there it can be a pain to rewind the Spring. See the MarineEngine schematic for Model E15REDS (or whatever your Model Number is) then keep looking for a for a more relevant video on that Rope replacement (9.9 and 15hp had a major redesign around 1992 IIRC). Also if the Rope breaks while you are out on the water the new design is a bit harder to start using the notches in the Flywheel and a length of Rope.
On the Thermostat...also probably a good idea to replace that (around $20 plus Cover Seal for another $5). There is no Overheat Warning on these small outboards so $25 is cheap insurance (again...on a 26 year old outboard). Or you might want to just Disassemble and Inspect the Thermostat for Crud (will probably need the $5 Cover Seal).
Some good reading on these OMC outboards is "Leeroy's Ramblings" and if you get stuck while doing the work post your question/problem on iboats.com under the Johnson/Evinrude forum... lots of friendly help available there. Good luck.

 

[Mark W]

Mark, there are many good sources for Johnson/Evinrude parts even on Outboards made in the 1960's or even 1950's. So your 1996 is relatively new with parts relatively easy to get. One supplier I have used often is MarineEngine.com because they have Exploded View Assembly Diagrams on their site (as do other suppliers--although a supplier I USED TO buy from--"SeaWay--no longer hosts the diagrams). You may find individual parts a bit cheaper buying "onesie twosie" on Amazon or Ebay but if you are buying a full Water Pump Kit and Starter Rope you will find MarineEngine comprehensive and painless to order from via either their online shopping or place an order talking to a live person by phone. Just know your Model Number and exact p/n's you want to buy.
The "take it slow" and "take photos" advice other have given on the Water Pump replacement is very accurate. If you're an experienced DIY mechanic you probably have some favorite tricks with soaking and heat to loosen seized fasteners. Upon reassembly be sure to grease the Driveshaft where it goes into the Crankshaft so in another 26 years nobody will find that seized--a very common but difficult problem. These OMC motors can run for many years, a couple years back I sold my 1969 6hp (wish I didn't now!) and it ran like new even after 10 years or so of saltwater usage. DIY on this including Pump Housing will run about $50, a lot better than $300 (which I am sure is accurate in many areas).
Some experts will argue that on a 26 year old motor you Lower Unit Seals are due for a change. I dunno...on a freshwater motor that has never been in salt, and shows no milky gear oil or other signs of leakage you might want to tackle that job separately waiting another year or two. Especially if you change the Gear Oil annually...
But don't delay that Recoil Starter Rope Repair. If the rope breaks or you have something else malfunctioning in there it can be a pain to rewind the Spring. See the MarineEngine schematic for Model E15REDS (or whatever your Model Number is) then keep looking for a for a more relevant video on that Rope replacement (9.9 and 15hp had a major redesign around 1992 IIRC). Also if the Rope breaks while you are out on the water the new design is a bit harder to start using the notches in the Flywheel and a length of Rope.
On the Thermostat...also probably a good idea to replace that (around $20 plus Cover Seal for another $5). There is no Overheat Warning on these small outboards so $25 is cheap insurance (again...on a 26 year old outboard). Or you might want to just Disassemble and Inspect the Thermostat for Crud (will probably need the $5 Cover Seal).
Some good reading on these OMC outboards is "Leeroy's Ramblings" and if you get stuck while doing the work post your question/problem on iboats.com under the Johnson/Evinrude forum... lots of friendly help available there. Good luck.

Thanks for the information. When I tear into the starter, the issue was the rope wouldn't recoil back after pulling it. I cheated and sprayed PB Blaster into the assembly and the recoil starter no recoils again. Got me through to the end of duck season but i am certain this is not a good long tern fixt. Sounds like it needs a good cleaning and then will check for possible new parts needed.

Mark