need help, have questions

Chris S.

Chris S.

Well-known member
The deck of my new to me BBSB has a few spots of delamination. Due to it age I am 99% sure its polyester resin. The delam. Has been bugging the crap out of me for many reasons. Looks,saftey the fact that it is poly not epoxy. So I made the decision to remove all the poly resin and redo with epoxy. So today I went out and used a razor knife and sliced down the the delam ripple and pulled the glass off with very little effort that's not good. I took a few shots of the cut area and the wood under looks good with no rot. I have a few questions

1. How much epoxy should I buy to reglass a BBSB 12ft long 52 inch beam doing 2 layers of 6oz on the hull and 1 layer of 6oz on the deck with enough to use with a filler to fillet the deck and hull?

2.what is a good filler to use with epoxy for filleting? Just wood flour? Something better to use?

3. Should I use thick epoxy and the filler for filleting or just regular epoxy and filler? I sea thst us compistes has a thick epoxy was thinking this way work better for filleting

4. I just put a new motor board on. Can u use the same holes after I reglass and leave the hole there while glassing will holes in the transome mess up the glass or leave em then just drill through the glass to open the holes or do I need to fill the bolt holes then glass and drill new holes for the same motor board

5. Any other important things I need to know will help out greatly I should have just reglassed before I put the motor board and grass rails on.

6. Is us composites a good place to order my epoxy from that is where I was going order it from or is RAKA a better place or is it 6 one half dozen the other.

7. Is my plan of 2 layers of 6oz on the hull and 1 layer of 6oz on the deck a good idea or should I do it another way with heavier glass. . . ect.

View attachment 20110521140423.jpg View attachment 20110521140440.jpg
Thanks,
Chris
 
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Chris
Im doing some filleting at the moment on my Devlin mallard and Im using west system 405 filleting blend and it dry,s like a rock, it the best stuff and its very strong.
Take care and God Bless
Eddie and Amber
Its all about Building that Bond.
 
No expert here, but I'll try to help. I used Raka& had good results, but lots here use US Comp. so I'd say who ever has the best price is the way to go.
I used about 4.5 gal to build a 12'9"x 60" mallard, 1 layer of 6oz. cloth top& bottom. Epoxy used as glue, fillits, fairing & for cloth, + I had some waste learning to use the stuff, Raka's fast hardner kicks off in a hurry!
Filler in epoxy is mainly used to help the epoxy from saging or running& wood flour is as cheep as any, thats what I used. There is other fillers, but I never used any of the& can't give any info on them.
I'd use regular thickness epoxy, it'll penetrate the wood better, & add filler as needed. When fairing/filling paint unthickened epoxy first, then mix filler in epoxy & fill/fair what is needed. this helps the joint/ spots from becoming epoxy starved.
A book(I read Devlons) will answer most other questions ya come up with. The people at Raka answered any questions I had also. Wear a dust mask when sanding& sand down to bear wood where you remove the poly so the epoxy can penetrate in the wood. I hope I helped some. Good luck on your redo!
Dennis
 
Chris, search back on my name, and follow some of the pictures of my build last year.... Keep in mind, I am an engineer, and tend to over build! I turned a sneakbox into a tank. I am happy with the results, but it is no longer a light weight pull over the mud sneakbox.

I used wood flour for the majority of my filler. I faired all the holes and all the slots between boards, so that my hull no longer looks like a carvel planked hull, looks like molded glass. I used 6 oz cloth top and bottom, 2 layers, over painted with epoxy about 5 times to completely fill in the cloth. I also used colloidal silica for filler when I wanted a pure glue. I found the wood flour a little grainy at times, even when I used a flour sifter to clean it before I used it. The silica will make a nice smooth paste, but it does sand hard, so clean up real good when you use it to avoid too much sanding.

Use one epoxy, working in NJ over the summer, use the slow cure, especially if you are inexperieinced. Add the filler when you want a glue, and don't add a filler for wetting the wood and wetting out the cloth.

You can search the archives, there are several re-builds out there, mine is just one of many. I read lots before I got busy on mine.... still working on mine! Building front decoy racks now, and still have the sailing rig to build. Son's motorcycle is in the boat shop now in pieces, got to get that done first I suppose.

Good luck, keep us in pictures so we can enjoy the build...

Dave
 
Chris,

Last year, I rebuilt the transom on my BBSB with WEST System. I hated it! It blushed like crazy.

WEST's fillers are outstanding, however.

I'd recommend non-blushing epoxies such as System Three Silvertip or RAKA (w/non-blushing hardener). System Three is big $, while RAKA is reasonably priced.

US Composites has a non-blushing hardener but it must be applied in warm weather. Great price, though.
 
Thanks for all the input you guys are answering questions I didn't know I had yet. What about my transome? I put a new motor board on about 2 months ago and I will have to remove it to reglass but what about the 4 bolt holes. Do I need to fill the holes before glassing? I want to use the same 4 holes to remount the same motor board after the glass is on. Can I just leave the 4 holes there and glass as normal then when ready to mount the motor board just drill through the glass to have the holes go all the way through. Or will having the holes there be bad and not good for glassing. What's the best thing to in this situation?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Thanks for all the input you guys are answering questions I didn't know I had yet. What about my transome? I put a new motor board on about 2 months ago and I will have to remove it to reglass but what about the 4 bolt holes. Do I need to fill the holes before glassing? I want to use the same 4 holes to remount the same motor board after the glass is on. Can I just leave the 4 holes there and glass as normal then when ready to mount the motor board just drill through the glass to have the holes go all the way through. Or will having the holes there be bad and not good for glassing. What's the best thing to in this situation?

Thanks,
Chris
Click to expand...


If you're using the same holes just make sure there are no burrs around the edges and you can just glass right over them. Once its done you can simply drill right through and insert your bolts.

Brad
 
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