Outboard Motor board
- Thread starter Charlie D
- Start date
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
I used marine plywood laminated with West System. Has been on for over 20 years. Steve or Dave might have some ideas about synthetics.
Not sure how big a motor you are talking about, but years ago I bought an outboard motor bracket to mount a kicker next to the main motor on my boat. The mounting board was made of micarta about 1" thick. It worked well. My boat had a varnished transom and the color made it look like varnished mahogany at a glance. For a duck boat, I would suggest it be roughed up with sandpaper and painted.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Charlie~
I have no experience with synthetics (other than PVC lumber which has little strength - but takes compound curves nicely!).
I have made several motor boards over the years from treated lumber (thoroughly dry pieces). I use 2 x 10 stock, seal it with 3 coats of epoxy, and mount it with 3M 5200 and s/s carriage bolts. I just mounted this board on a South Bay this morning. (Full rehab tale when I have more time.)
CLICK any photo to enlarge.
View attachment Motor Board 01 sm.JPG
I prefer to reduce the surface area of the board that's in contact with the hull - less space for moisture to get trapped. Also, being offset, it can serve as a lifting handle when the OB is elsewhere.
View attachment Motor Board 02 sm.JPG
Here is the BEFORE - pretty sure it's a "factory original": 2 layers of laminated plywood wrapped in 'glass.
I removed all of the wood without any tools - just tore it away with my hands. The galvanized carriage bolts needed a Sawzall and a 3-pound sledge....
BTW: The previous owner had a small eye-bolt on the motor mount itself - presumably to secure a safety chain (or cable) from the outboard. There is now a larger eye-bolt mounted through the stern deck for this purpose.
View attachment Motor Board 03 - BEFORE sm.JPG
I built my first boards this way over 20 years ago (I abandoned White Oak because I could not keep it sealed.). As far as I know, all are still serving well.
All the best,
SJS
I have no experience with synthetics (other than PVC lumber which has little strength - but takes compound curves nicely!).
I have made several motor boards over the years from treated lumber (thoroughly dry pieces). I use 2 x 10 stock, seal it with 3 coats of epoxy, and mount it with 3M 5200 and s/s carriage bolts. I just mounted this board on a South Bay this morning. (Full rehab tale when I have more time.)
CLICK any photo to enlarge.
View attachment Motor Board 01 sm.JPG
I prefer to reduce the surface area of the board that's in contact with the hull - less space for moisture to get trapped. Also, being offset, it can serve as a lifting handle when the OB is elsewhere.
View attachment Motor Board 02 sm.JPG
Here is the BEFORE - pretty sure it's a "factory original": 2 layers of laminated plywood wrapped in 'glass.
I removed all of the wood without any tools - just tore it away with my hands. The galvanized carriage bolts needed a Sawzall and a 3-pound sledge....
BTW: The previous owner had a small eye-bolt on the motor mount itself - presumably to secure a safety chain (or cable) from the outboard. There is now a larger eye-bolt mounted through the stern deck for this purpose.
View attachment Motor Board 03 - BEFORE sm.JPG
I built my first boards this way over 20 years ago (I abandoned White Oak because I could not keep it sealed.). As far as I know, all are still serving well.
All the best,
SJS
patrick mccarthy
Active member
Charlie
How about using some sort of ridgid core material (plywood or oak?) and then laminating it with the pvc 1x stock
How about using some sort of ridgid core material (plywood or oak?) and then laminating it with the pvc 1x stock
Jon Yenulonis
Well-known member
Just a note fellas, treated wood is VERY CORROSIVE if not sealed. ESPECIALLY in a wet or damp environment! Make sure to seal it very well. Steve's idea of three coats of epoxy is a great idea,
Jon
Jon
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Jon~
AND I am very careful to coat/slather all mating surfaces of the s/s carriage bolts with 5200 during installation - to chemically isolate the bolts from the wood.
All the best,
SJS
AND I am very careful to coat/slather all mating surfaces of the s/s carriage bolts with 5200 during installation - to chemically isolate the bolts from the wood.
All the best,
SJS