Paint used over epoxy
- Thread starter Tom H.
- Start date
I have had really good luck with one spread of decoys I made by sealing the cedar with west systems epoxy, after fully cured sanding and putting a coat of gesso, then finish painting with goldens acrylics. they have stood up to some heavy use and are now 10 yrs old with only slight wear.
Vince Pagliaroli
Well-known member
Smiths Custom Wood Epoxy & Sealer, been using it for years. It's not cheap, but my credo is - "Cheap is not good & Good is not cheap". My wife calls me Mr. Full Price...........
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Lou's FME is pretty much the standard one part paint for duck boats. Tough and very flat although for your Red & White you may want a glossier paint.
His instructions:
Some info on prep and painting
Posted by Lou Tisch Time Posted: March 24, 2004 at 11:12 a.m.
Here's some info on prep and painting. I'd lost this in a virus attack...then recovered it and just brought it back into my folders.
Painting an Aluminum or Fiberglass Boat
1. Be sure the boat has been cleaned off well with soap and water to remove all dirt, grease, leaves, grime and all that stuff that accumulates from years of hunting.
2. Lightly solvent wipe things down with a rag and lacquer thinner. This will remove any gasoline, oil or petroleum residues that would mess with your sanding or prevent paint from adhering. When finished with the solvent rag, be sure to let it set out and lose it’s solvents before you put it into a closed container or trash can.
3. Sand the entire boat as required to remove and/or scuff all the paint. Be sure to remove any loose paint. When sanding a duck boat, I prefer 80-100 grit. It gives better “tooth” and , after all……..it’ll help with the dulled surface and paint adhesion. Sanding must be taken into the best previously adhered surface in order to have the new coat of paint hold properly.
4. For Aluminum boat-Spot prime any bare aluminum with ASG Primer (or AG Primer), specifically designed for use on “Aluminum, Stainless & Galvanized”. Do not thin AG Primer. A second option would be to prime the entire boat with PPG’s Epoxy Primer.
5. For Fiberglass boat-You can go right to the FME as this is a Primer-Based Paint and will serve as it’s own primer. If you would like, another option would be to prime with PPG-Epoxy Primer and then follow up with FME.
6. Once the primer has dried, you can base coat the entire boat, inside and out, with the base coat FME (Flat Marine Enamel-oil based) color of your choice. FME is a “primer based” paint and requires no other primer underneath it on a properly prepared surface. You may use a brush, roller or sprayer. When spraying, the best is an airless sprayer though you can thin slightly with a high quality paint thinner for use in a regular air spray gun. If using the air-feed spray gun, we recommend the top-feed, gravity style of gun. It requires less air and less thinning to get a proper pattern. You will also achieve greater success with a couple thinner coats rather than one thick coat. Thinner coats will cure/dry much faster and more thoroughly….thus, more durable.
7. When the base coat is dry (usually overnight in good temps), you may accent with any other FME color you’d like. The options are endless……match your local vegetation.
8. We have several camoflage patterned paint schemes and colors available.
*Our 2-tone Reed Stripe was developed for the cat-tail marshes & flooded corn. Base coat in Starcraft Camo Light Brown (#26) and reed stripe with an automotive striping brush with Starcraft Camo Dark Brown (#27), thinning #27 on the palette as you work. We developed these colors through PPG specifically for us and Starcraft. You can even “green it up” a bit with Dead Grass Green (#28), O/D Green (#35) or some Olive (#18).
*Our Open Water Gray Pattern is very effective for layout hunting. You can base coat the entire boat with Open Water Medium Gray (#33) or Open Water Dark Gray (#34) and allow to dry. Once dry, overstripe with a wave pattern of Open Water Light Gray (#32) by cutting the feed pressure down, reducing the size of your pattern to a small area and reducing the feed rate so it will be easy to control. Move the spray gun around in a lazy “wave”, walk alongside the boat and “wave” the gun to give the pattern you’d like.
We have pictures of these patterns that we can email to you.
9. You can create your own color patterns/schemes with any of the FME colors we have. All the decoy and boat paints are TRUE - FLAT MARINE ENAMELS and work well with each other.
Scott
His instructions:
Some info on prep and painting
Posted by Lou Tisch Time Posted: March 24, 2004 at 11:12 a.m.
Here's some info on prep and painting. I'd lost this in a virus attack...then recovered it and just brought it back into my folders.
Painting an Aluminum or Fiberglass Boat
1. Be sure the boat has been cleaned off well with soap and water to remove all dirt, grease, leaves, grime and all that stuff that accumulates from years of hunting.
2. Lightly solvent wipe things down with a rag and lacquer thinner. This will remove any gasoline, oil or petroleum residues that would mess with your sanding or prevent paint from adhering. When finished with the solvent rag, be sure to let it set out and lose it’s solvents before you put it into a closed container or trash can.
3. Sand the entire boat as required to remove and/or scuff all the paint. Be sure to remove any loose paint. When sanding a duck boat, I prefer 80-100 grit. It gives better “tooth” and , after all……..it’ll help with the dulled surface and paint adhesion. Sanding must be taken into the best previously adhered surface in order to have the new coat of paint hold properly.
4. For Aluminum boat-Spot prime any bare aluminum with ASG Primer (or AG Primer), specifically designed for use on “Aluminum, Stainless & Galvanized”. Do not thin AG Primer. A second option would be to prime the entire boat with PPG’s Epoxy Primer.
5. For Fiberglass boat-You can go right to the FME as this is a Primer-Based Paint and will serve as it’s own primer. If you would like, another option would be to prime with PPG-Epoxy Primer and then follow up with FME.
6. Once the primer has dried, you can base coat the entire boat, inside and out, with the base coat FME (Flat Marine Enamel-oil based) color of your choice. FME is a “primer based” paint and requires no other primer underneath it on a properly prepared surface. You may use a brush, roller or sprayer. When spraying, the best is an airless sprayer though you can thin slightly with a high quality paint thinner for use in a regular air spray gun. If using the air-feed spray gun, we recommend the top-feed, gravity style of gun. It requires less air and less thinning to get a proper pattern. You will also achieve greater success with a couple thinner coats rather than one thick coat. Thinner coats will cure/dry much faster and more thoroughly….thus, more durable.
7. When the base coat is dry (usually overnight in good temps), you may accent with any other FME color you’d like. The options are endless……match your local vegetation.
8. We have several camoflage patterned paint schemes and colors available.
*Our 2-tone Reed Stripe was developed for the cat-tail marshes & flooded corn. Base coat in Starcraft Camo Light Brown (#26) and reed stripe with an automotive striping brush with Starcraft Camo Dark Brown (#27), thinning #27 on the palette as you work. We developed these colors through PPG specifically for us and Starcraft. You can even “green it up” a bit with Dead Grass Green (#28), O/D Green (#35) or some Olive (#18).
*Our Open Water Gray Pattern is very effective for layout hunting. You can base coat the entire boat with Open Water Medium Gray (#33) or Open Water Dark Gray (#34) and allow to dry. Once dry, overstripe with a wave pattern of Open Water Light Gray (#32) by cutting the feed pressure down, reducing the size of your pattern to a small area and reducing the feed rate so it will be easy to control. Move the spray gun around in a lazy “wave”, walk alongside the boat and “wave” the gun to give the pattern you’d like.
We have pictures of these patterns that we can email to you.
9. You can create your own color patterns/schemes with any of the FME colors we have. All the decoy and boat paints are TRUE - FLAT MARINE ENAMELS and work well with each other.
Scott
Vince Pagliaroli
Well-known member
Smiths is what a good friend uses to restore Cris-Crafts and Lyman boats. He turned me on to it to use on my decoys.........
joe miller
Member
try www.clcboats.com
i think i used pettit paint high gloss finish in green on a canoe i built a few years back
could email a pic if you would like
the paint is very expensive but worth the money
they have all the colors you would ever need
I did a 12 foot canoe inside and out and it took just over a can
three coats is what you will need if put on by roller and tipped out with a brush
might use less if you spray
i think i used pettit paint high gloss finish in green on a canoe i built a few years back
could email a pic if you would like
the paint is very expensive but worth the money
they have all the colors you would ever need
I did a 12 foot canoe inside and out and it took just over a can
three coats is what you will need if put on by roller and tipped out with a brush
might use less if you spray
joe miller
Member
I just looked at clc and could not find the paint
it looks like it is running about 36 a quart on other sights
if you need epoxy try areo marine
last time i bought is was just over 100 dollars for a gallon and one half 2 to 1 mix ratio no blush epoxy
it looks like it is running about 36 a quart on other sights
if you need epoxy try areo marine
last time i bought is was just over 100 dollars for a gallon and one half 2 to 1 mix ratio no blush epoxy
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Tom & Joe~
I'll be ordering a 1:3 epoxy from U S. Composites shortly. Gallon-and-a-half is $71.
I've been using Interlux Brightside on recent sailboats. It's a one-part polyurethane. Needs o go over PreKote primer. I buy from Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors.
View attachment Guthrie Ospray 20 May 2011 - vs.jpg
Hope this helps,
SJS
I'll be ordering a 1:3 epoxy from U S. Composites shortly. Gallon-and-a-half is $71.
I've been using Interlux Brightside on recent sailboats. It's a one-part polyurethane. Needs o go over PreKote primer. I buy from Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors.
View attachment Guthrie Ospray 20 May 2011 - vs.jpg
Hope this helps,
SJS