Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Since a couple of guys have asked for details on how I painted this herd of Canadas (collective Goose rigs from my partners and me) last winter, I have put together a few thoughts to help anyone who might be painting a rig soon.
I am, though, plumb out of unpainted goose stool right now, so I will just take you from stern to bow (I always paint decoys going forward because of how feathers overlap) on birds that were painted earlier this year. Most of the pics are of the smaller Model 81 but a few are from the oversize Model 92.
I use latex paints over a well-sealed or primed bird. Sealers may be epoxy or spar varnish. Primer is usually a flat Rustoleum (black or white or a mix in-between). I have been using Behr sample jars (8-ounces) from Home Depot for my gunners in recent years. They are: exterior, dead flat, and cost about $3 per jar (So, little waste.).
The colors needed for a Canada are: Black, White, a muddy brown (Fedora), a warm mid-beige/tan (Mocha Accent). The Grey I used here is Glidden Gripper Grey Primer (comes in quarts - but I use it for lots of things in the shop - including the bottoms of all my gunners).
The Black and White pattern on the rump is made by the Black tail feathers, wingtips (primaries) and lower back feathers contrasting with the White upper and lower tail coverts and the entire undertail section. This is one area where it pays to keep the edges crisp. I think this pattern is used by Canadas for ID of their brethren.
Note how the Black back feathers. go about halfway up the back between the wing feathers (coverts and scapulars). Also, curve the lower edge of the Black primaries gently downward as you go forward.
Below is the Model 92 (highly recarved and with a plastic tail insert) which shows a little more White - I went a little too far up the back with the White here.
Below is the back. It is pretty much solid Fedora. Drag it onto the Black wingtip groups with a dry brush. The blending behind the neck will be done later.
The back color (Fedora) is also dragged down the sides, about half-way to the waterline.
The Grey comes up the sides about half-way, too. It should be applied with a dry brush to make a soft transition to the Fedora.
I paint bottoms the same color - I like to be able to mark the owner's name with a felt pen. So, I usually paint the bottom, the lower sides and most of the breast at the same time and then let them dry thoroughly.
You can bring the Grey all the way up to the neck - but it will be softened with White later.
Now use the Mocha Accent to suggest the barred edges of the side feathers - and also bring it around behind the neck.
On the Model 92 (below) I curved both the Grey and the Mocha. Note (on both birds) how the curves are mostly vertical aft but curve down and forward as you move toward the bow.
Optional: You can suggest some feather edgings with Mocha on the back, too - just keep it subtle.
Now use a dry brush with White to lighten up below the neck.
Next, paint the heads Black (or, you could have done this earlier when painting the tail and wingtips - you just need to let this "handle" dry thoroughly) and let them dry. Note how the White chinstrap starts out above and behind the eye and ends below and sightly forward of the eye.
Here's the finished product:
I hope this is helpful. As always, I present this as just one way to do the job - there is plenty of room for personal preference.
All the best,
SJS
I am, though, plumb out of unpainted goose stool right now, so I will just take you from stern to bow (I always paint decoys going forward because of how feathers overlap) on birds that were painted earlier this year. Most of the pics are of the smaller Model 81 but a few are from the oversize Model 92.
I use latex paints over a well-sealed or primed bird. Sealers may be epoxy or spar varnish. Primer is usually a flat Rustoleum (black or white or a mix in-between). I have been using Behr sample jars (8-ounces) from Home Depot for my gunners in recent years. They are: exterior, dead flat, and cost about $3 per jar (So, little waste.).
The colors needed for a Canada are: Black, White, a muddy brown (Fedora), a warm mid-beige/tan (Mocha Accent). The Grey I used here is Glidden Gripper Grey Primer (comes in quarts - but I use it for lots of things in the shop - including the bottoms of all my gunners).
The Black and White pattern on the rump is made by the Black tail feathers, wingtips (primaries) and lower back feathers contrasting with the White upper and lower tail coverts and the entire undertail section. This is one area where it pays to keep the edges crisp. I think this pattern is used by Canadas for ID of their brethren.
Note how the Black back feathers. go about halfway up the back between the wing feathers (coverts and scapulars). Also, curve the lower edge of the Black primaries gently downward as you go forward.
Below is the Model 92 (highly recarved and with a plastic tail insert) which shows a little more White - I went a little too far up the back with the White here.
Below is the back. It is pretty much solid Fedora. Drag it onto the Black wingtip groups with a dry brush. The blending behind the neck will be done later.
The back color (Fedora) is also dragged down the sides, about half-way to the waterline.
The Grey comes up the sides about half-way, too. It should be applied with a dry brush to make a soft transition to the Fedora.
I paint bottoms the same color - I like to be able to mark the owner's name with a felt pen. So, I usually paint the bottom, the lower sides and most of the breast at the same time and then let them dry thoroughly.
You can bring the Grey all the way up to the neck - but it will be softened with White later.
Now use the Mocha Accent to suggest the barred edges of the side feathers - and also bring it around behind the neck.
On the Model 92 (below) I curved both the Grey and the Mocha. Note (on both birds) how the curves are mostly vertical aft but curve down and forward as you move toward the bow.
Optional: You can suggest some feather edgings with Mocha on the back, too - just keep it subtle.
Now use a dry brush with White to lighten up below the neck.
Next, paint the heads Black (or, you could have done this earlier when painting the tail and wingtips - you just need to let this "handle" dry thoroughly) and let them dry. Note how the White chinstrap starts out above and behind the eye and ends below and sightly forward of the eye.
Here's the finished product:
I hope this is helpful. As always, I present this as just one way to do the job - there is plenty of room for personal preference.
All the best,
SJS
