Pattern Size..????

charlie foulds

Well-known member
OK, I am new to carving, never carved a decoy before. When you draw up a pattern, how do you know what size to make it? The length, width of the body and head. Is there a book that gives dimensions of the different species? Do you guys just "wing it"? :):)
 
You can take measurements from some ducks you've killed, or use a good pattern book as reference. I'd say to draw what you see and "wing it" will give you the best results, though.
 
Two things control the size. Your desire, if your going to hunt it and all your other decoys are mags then you probably want to stick with that size. If you like closer to life then your decoy should match. The other MAJOR thing is your material/stock. If your boards are 7" wide then I'd recommend sizing your pattern to take advantage of that width. Conversely if it's 6" wide your either down sizing or changing the type of duck to fit. Working with sheet cork then it's number of decoys from a sheet to control material cost.

So simply relax draw a pattern you like and blow it up or shrink it to fit your needs.

Enjoy,
Scott
 
OK, I am new to carving, never carved a decoy before. When you draw up a pattern, how do you know what size to make it? The length, width of the body and head. Is there a book that gives dimensions of the different species? Do you guys just "wing it"? :):)


I don't just wing it and I would be surprised if you could given your eye towards perfection :). A nice big hearty man-sized decoy is only 110% lifesize and a really big magnum is 125%. Check your email - I'll send you something that will help.

Do you have a duck in the freezer to work from or a mount? That will help too.

T
 
Charlie, are you working with cork or wood. If it's wood, you have type of wood, to hollow or not, and size/weight to consider....many factors. If you are dealing with cork, I make mine from black cork and my "Super Standard" (which is slightly oversized) is 15x8x4. This is a nice body size that is very visible to the passing ducks and also fits well in slotted bags. I use a sheet of thin plywood to draw out my body size patterns, and then cut the plywood out as a template. Then I set the template on the cork sheets and trace the bodies out with chalk. Your template can be as simplistic as you want, from a teardrop shape, to something that gives more tail and body composition. If you go wider in the body, you will run into problems with fitting into bags. This is not a problem if they will be riding out of bags in a truck or in a boat. And yes, you can always get custom bags to fit the dekes, but I am trying to save you some money. You will also get less decoys from a sheet of cork the wider or longer you go. I can get 8 from a single sheet and sometimes squeeze a teal body for a ninth bird. Hope this helps .....dc


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If you are thinking of carving your first decoy then check out Willy McDonald's website.
http://www.theduckblind.com/
Find the cyber classroom there and read through all the articles. Then Willy can fix you up with a kit to get started along with the tools you will need. Once you make few you will be more comfortable making your own patterns.
A book that has tons of data and measurements is "Game Bird Carving" by Bruce Burk. Look for the 3rd Edition published in 1988. You can find it used for $10-$15.
 
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Until you get a feel for it, you might be better to utilize somebody else's pattern, but if you want to do your own, ditto Dave Church. But I'd like to see how he fit eight 15x8 bodies on a sheet of cork. I didn't play with it too much but just cut up a sheet last week and only got seven, and I have a chunk left that I think I can get a teal out of.

So, that being said, to make up your own pattern, go to the art store and get yourself a gianormous pad of graph paper, 8 squares per inch. I just bought one recently and it was around $16 for a pad 22x17. Get some soft lead (HB is good) pencils and a white plastic eraser, like a staedtler mars, and a flexible clear plastic ruler. Around an inch or so from the bottom, and 3" from the right edge (if you are a righty) take your ruler and draw yourself a light rectangle 4" high and 15-3/4" long. You will draw in your side view within this box. At the top of the sheet, one inch from the top, and directly inline with the bottom rectangle, lightly draw a box 8" high by the 15-3/4". (why 15-3/4" you might be thinking. If you get yourself an 8ft stick of cedar, you get 6 decoys with a slight bit of breathing room between them out of the board). Now draw a center line lengthwise thru this box. Your top view goes in this box, but you only will initially sketch a half view on whichever side of the centerline you are most comfortable with. The two boxes end up pretty well spaced to sketch up most any head pattern other than one with the neck stretched forward. The tail will be on the right. If you'd rather sketch with the head on the right, draw the boxes in the opposite corner.

You are now ready to sketch up the decoy. Go thru Keith's black duck posting and pick a pic for reference. Sketch the side view first then you can project important points up to your top box.

Side view:
Make an end point in the bottom box for where the body ends and tail tip begins, 1 to 1-1/4" from the end of your box. Just draw a light line from top to bottom of both boxes. If you are using cork, this will be the end of your piece of cork. Everything from this point on will pretty much be sketch/erase/sketch/erase until you get things looking appealing to you. So sketch lightly, and don't "burn it in" until it's the way you like it. I found that I like to sketch in the tail first. Then find where you want the high point of the back to be, then draw the back from that point down to the tail line. You might find your self sketching it 3-4 times then erase the lines that you don't like. Then draw the front end of the body.

Top view:
Look at enough patterns and enough pictures of decoys and you'll find that they tend to fall somewhere between a teardrop shape and an oval shape. The good thing about this view, is once you decide what you like, it's good for pretty much all side views you'll want to do for a gunning decoy. So, take any particular details from the side view that will come into play when you cut out the top view on your bandsaw and project them up to your top view. Then sketch your, for this example, teardrop shape on ONE HALF of your center line. Make any adjustments for details and sketch in your tail. You can call it done at this point if you want, or you remove your sheet from the pad, fold it along that centerline, and go find a big window (this works best during daytime). A sliding glass door works great. put the sheet on the glass with the blank side of the top view towards you and you can see the half you've drawn thru the paper. Sketch the other half, unfold and now you have a full body pattern drawn.

Heads are a bit more difficult and others more knowledgeable than me can probably do a better job, but concentrate on getting the bill right. Once you sketch up a bill the way you like it, make a template of just the bill or the bill and face up to the eyes and save it for all of your heads. It's about the only part of a the head that doesn't change.

Here is one I did from one of Swamper's pics a few weeks ago.
DSCN0659.jpg

 
Jim,

That was very informative.
Like Charlie, I am going to start carving my first decoy.
Thanks for helping us new guys get started.
 
Never have carved a decoy but I have used software for some crazy things.... I thought about taking a photo of the duck, register the photo into cad or similar software (you could even use a GIS package - shape warp or image warp in ArcView 3.3 or 9.3), digitize the shape of the quaker, make sure the digitized shape is sized correctly for the decoy, exsport the digitized line work into a *.jpg or *.bmp and then into Word, then off to a plotter to print it.....sound to techie.....from quacker to printer....
 
Thanks a lot guys, you have given me some great ideas on how to get started drawing up my own pattern. This is a prime example of why we have the best site on the net....The folks involved here are always willing to "lend a hand"
 
charlie, you only really need to draw a half pattern--when doing layout, all you need to do is flip it over once you draw the one side--even using this technique, i STILL do not make stuff symmetrical==it also saves on paper!!
 
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