Poleboat construction pics

Very nicely done Pete.

I know you have to do it but I'm gonna have to try hard not to cry when you post a pick of all that bright work painted.

Ron
 
This was a fun project that didn't take a ton of time or money. I'll try to answer your questions all in one post:

Ryan, Otto was not in it last night - solo for now though it looks and feels like it has plenty of reserve bouyancy for him and my gear - space might be at a premium though. I used the invisalounge last night with an extra cushion and it worked great. This will be a marsh hunting skiff, not really for open water though I will likely paint it some form of gray - I really like gray for duck boats.

Dave McCann, yes the oars worked but my sitting position didn't. I sat forward of the oar locks and rowed as you normally would but the weight distribution was all screwed up and the boat wanted to crab and wouldn't track right. I think sitting aft of the oar locks and rowing forward will be much better. When I get a good stroke in it really scoots.

Dave Church, This is a Sam Devlin design http://www.devlinboat.com/poleboat.php I started it on May 4th and only worked on it sporadically as I was gone for part of the time. I suppose if I had worked on it every day I could have had it done in 2-3 weeks or less. Some of the waiting time was for the epoxy to set on one section so I could move on. Cost? I used 4 sheets of 4mm okume bs1088 @ $27/each (yes I know it was a great deal). I think the plans call for something like 4 gals of epoxy, I used 2 1/4 and used 3.25 oz cloth and 4 oz tape. Total cost I think is in the $300 neighborhood.

Tom S. Yes, the hatch cover was a good idea, thanks. I have one in both bulkheads. Looking forward to LaCrosse also.

Kevin T. Yes, I have cursed my Kara on most occasions I have had it out. This boat is a ballet dancer compared to the Kara. You or anyone is free to test drive it at LaCrosse.

Andrew - Yes, exactly. I might end up putting 4mm pads on top of the landing area depending on the wear patterns of the floor.

Boz - Don't know about the ideal oar length. It might be on the plans, I haven't looked recently. The ones I tried were too long and those were for my BB3, I'm thinking 7 1/2? I have another set of short ones that I will try next.

w. gammill - yes, that is what I was thinking also. Now, trying to get down there to try it out might be a little more difficult.

Dave M. Yes, pretty much will replace the Kara unless we have a year with flooded corn and then the Kara will shine in it's own way. You are correct, there is no drain plug. I plan on tipping it over to empty the water out, also, the oar lock holes go thru the deck to make draining a bit easier then flipped over.

All of our boats look so neat in the bright but they are after all duck boats and need to be painted. This one is no exception and will get a coat of DP-40/401 or equivalent and then a couple coats of FME in probably a medium to dark gray. I'm also toying with the idea of putting 9x-2000, teflon/graphite loaded epoxy on the bottom like I did with my BB3. I love it on the BB3 and I think it will just add to the ease of polling through the slime/muck. In any event, still some work to do getting the floor in so I will have some more pics when it is finally done-done.
 
Pete, I walked out and took a peek at mine and sure enough there is no floor. I played with a removable floor and to get one stiff enough the weight climbed too high. I ended up just gluing down some closed cell foam and it has worked out just fine. Also for drain I put one in the rear deck so it drains when upside down on the rack. Just a couple thoughts, she does look good! I probably will bring mine to LaCrosse too just for comparison.
 
Pete, Did you put the floor in? Any pics and explanation would be greatly appreciated as I plan on building one this summer.
 
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