Question re old-timey oar locks

DWilliams

DWilliams

Member
If I may follow up my other post with a question, does anyone have a picture(s) of an old-school BBSB oarlock in the closed position?
Specifically, I am wondering what is the purpose for the chocks that are attached to the hull above the oarlock? (see picture from a boat at Tuckerton)
View attachment oarlock.jpg
My boat has similar chocks above where the oarlock was originally located (below).
View attachment nolock.jpg
The previous owner had taken the locks off. The boat came with the side supports but without the actual uprights, so I am going to fabricate some in the original 'key-hole' style. Thus, my question: if anyone has a picture of the old-style locks in a folded-down position, hopefully I can figure out how they sit in relation to the chocks.
What was the purpose of these chocks? Were they to secure the oarlock? Why do they have a cant at the bottom - was this to hold a wedge?
Any thoughts and answers would be most appreciated!
Thanks all,
Dan
 
the chock is to wedge a small stick up against the oarlock to keep it upright for rowing. The oar locks can be folded down for hunting
 
Thanks, Charlie -
So is the top of the oarlock upright designed to end below the chock in the closed position? Or does the key-hole sit over and around the chock?
(Did that make sense?)
Dano
 
You could probably do it either way. I would get someone with a Heinrechs box or other maker who did a folding oarlock, to take measurments for you. Otherwise it may be tricky to get right
 
Thanks, Charlie -
I figure that I can mock some up and play around with the height to see what looks best. I think that the vertical height from the rail to the top of the cowling may be the key to whether they sit short of the chock or over it.
Of course, if anyone has a picture or two for reference........
Take care,
Dano
 
Dano, are you replacing the folding oarlocks for authenticity, or because you want to be able to row? While the old school folding oarlocks look cool, they need to be very sloppy to last very long (too much stress on the horns if they fit well). If you want something flat for sailing, I understand that too, but would suggest you consider something more robust for true rowing, especially in bad seas. A fold down system could be designed that is more robust perhaps. and still be classic... not 1800's classic, but certainly 1900's, mahogany and bronze fittings classic....
 
Thanks Dave, for the 'sober second thought'.
I had just got to puzzling about how wide the horns would need to be (presumably relative to the breadth of the oar shaft) and how thick the board. There is probably a rule of thumb to be borrowed from a two thole pin type rowing setup. Wasn't there something in WoodenBoat about using thole pins for rowing a while back...? I wonder if I still have a copy...?
You're right: maybe a bronze lock would be more robust - and certainly easier to figure out.
I don't intend to row far - unless the outboard fails in which case the oars better work...
Best,
Dan
 
I have the remnants of the old oar locks off my sneakbox at home, I can make some measurements and post some pictures for you. These are on a 12ft x 5ft box, so you may need to upsize to fit your hull. Maybe not tonight, but by the end of the weekend I should have something for you. another option that I played with was based on a old sneakbox at the Tuckerton seaport, utilized a dovetail mount for a fixed position oarlock. I had messed around in pine working out the dimensions and styling, but eventually settled on some fixed mahogany and bronze on mine.

31309_1469280178263_1421364622_31220901_7563460_n.jpg


30609_1459888463476_1421364622_31201375_6020794_n.jpg

 
Thanks, Scott -
The search function is great - this site is an amazing resource!
I did see that post a while back (in fact, I think that I stole the first picture above from that post) but I had forgotten some of the specific discussion of the wedge and chock. Thanks for the reminder.
I was hoping to find a pic of a folded-down lock to get a sense of the geometry - before, that is, Mr. Diefenderfer disabused me of the notion - ha!
All the best,
Dan
 
Dave,

I'm thinking of utilizing a setup like yours. Would you be willing to explain how it is affixed, whether you reinforced it beneath the deck, and, if so, by what means.

Thanks.

Not meant to hijack the post, but it seemed relevant, especially in light of some of the info posters have provided above.
 
Steve, My oarlocks are larger than they appear in the photos. The stock is a full 2 inch thick mahogany. Below the deck I used some plastic deck as backing plates, they are 6 inches square for each bolt. I used 3/8" SS lags and fender washers. Once everything was dry fitted, I mixed up thickened epoxy with cabosil and glued, and then screwed everything together. Each of the 2 bearing surfaces are 2"x4+" the center hole is just decreative... I wanted them robust enough to use as handles to pull on the boat and able to be stepped on or kicked as I moved around.

The traditional fold down oarlocks used carriage bolts through the side mounts. I try to minimize all the through hull perforations, and seal the heck out of what I do have to make. I hate carriage bolts and will avoid them in anything but metal on metal applications. Wood will crush overtime due to stress, thermal cycling, and seasonal changes and eventually get loose, and then the carriage bolts will slip when they try to be tightened.

Now keep in mind, for a sailing hull, which mine is, the upright fixed oarlocks may be come a PITA.... I have not completed the sailing rig for my box, so I don't know exactly how I will rig it for sailing, but the oarlocks will likely have to be accounted for somehow....which was why I entertained the dovetail design for so long.... I just could not make them robust enough for my liking and still use traditional materials (or at least traditional appearance..... (composite decking that is painted does not look any different than the mahogany!).
 
Thanks, Dave. The holes may be functional as well as decorative if they prevent water from pooling on the updeck side of the oarlock.
 
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