Re-painting a Wildfowler Whistler
- Thread starter Steve Sanford
- Start date
Brandon Yuchasz
Well-known member
Steve,
I really enjoyed following along on your project. I do have a question for you on the use of [font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] Gesso. I have heard and read over the years not to use [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Gesso on decoys but I have to be honest I have no idea why those that are preaching it are. I am not looking to change my painting process I am happy with the results and would have used white and black ronan's in place of the [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Gesso in this process but it would have required two coats of tube oils over top. Perhaps your process only requires one?Mine would have required one as a base and the second as a finished detail coat. Perhaps you could share some of your experiences on the use of [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Gesso on gunning decoys over the years?
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I really enjoyed following along on your project. I do have a question for you on the use of [font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] Gesso. I have heard and read over the years not to use [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Gesso on decoys but I have to be honest I have no idea why those that are preaching it are. I am not looking to change my painting process I am happy with the results and would have used white and black ronan's in place of the [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Gesso in this process but it would have required two coats of tube oils over top. Perhaps your process only requires one?Mine would have required one as a base and the second as a finished detail coat. Perhaps you could share some of your experiences on the use of [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Gesso on gunning decoys over the years?
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Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Brandon~
I used Gesso on this bird because I intend it for life on a shelf - although I may use it once or twice - and because I wanted to finish it with oils. Gesso is the standard ground beneath oils on flatwork. This is how I finish my typical mantel-piece birds.
If I were making this a real gunner finished with oils, I would prime with Rustoleum - using Flat White, Flat Black and/or Rusty Metal Primer as needed.
I typically finish my gunners with latex/acrylics and prime them (after sealing with the 2 coats of spar varnish) with Gesso - tinted to approximate the final tones and hues (so wear does not show too badly). I will even add some Gesso to topcoats to reduce sheen - as with green highlights, etc. I have observed no adverse effects on birds I have gunned for even 30 years. I believe both the White and the Black on this Drake Shoveler are straight Gesso. These were carved and painted in the late 80s.
The Gesso is certainly softer than the typical latex topcoat - but I kind of like the patina.
All the best,
SJS
I used Gesso on this bird because I intend it for life on a shelf - although I may use it once or twice - and because I wanted to finish it with oils. Gesso is the standard ground beneath oils on flatwork. This is how I finish my typical mantel-piece birds.
If I were making this a real gunner finished with oils, I would prime with Rustoleum - using Flat White, Flat Black and/or Rusty Metal Primer as needed.
I typically finish my gunners with latex/acrylics and prime them (after sealing with the 2 coats of spar varnish) with Gesso - tinted to approximate the final tones and hues (so wear does not show too badly). I will even add some Gesso to topcoats to reduce sheen - as with green highlights, etc. I have observed no adverse effects on birds I have gunned for even 30 years. I believe both the White and the Black on this Drake Shoveler are straight Gesso. These were carved and painted in the late 80s.
The Gesso is certainly softer than the typical latex topcoat - but I kind of like the patina.
All the best,
SJS
Original paint Wildfowlers-Steve your bird has more eye appeal.
Iron tear drop weight on early Old Saybrook Wildfowler Black Duck with repaint.
Oversized Atlantic Model Redheads by Wildfowler, Old Saybrook-took me a few minutes to figure these out as they are rough enough to be Herters.
Iron keel weight attached to Oversized Atlantic Model Redheads.
Lead strap weight on keel of repainted Canvasback Wildfowler from Old Saybrook. Unfortunately the North American writing does not show on the weight. Also, the bottom stap appears to have been added on latter while the two on each side of the keel are original.
Forgot to mention in first picture but the original paint Goldeneyes have lead strap weights on the keel that are un-marked. Sorry so long to refigure out how to post pictures.
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Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Chris~
Thanks very much for the photos.
Regarding the Whistlers, it's interesting that the white spot is painted on below the eye - instead of between the eye and the base of the bill. I had thought the re-painter of my bird when I got had made a mistake - but I guess they just copied the original Wildfowler's paint pattern.
Regarding those 2 Redheads - they sure do look like Herter's Model Perfect oversize from the late 40s/early 50s. We had 7 Herter's Broadbill that I re-painted (and re-carved the bill) - at my Dad's direction - as Whistlers when I was in high school.
Do yours have a Wildfowlers brand? Yours seem to have larger eyes, set a bit further aft, and may be a one-piece body of Balsa? My Herter's bodies are pieced together.
All the best,
SJS
Thanks very much for the photos.
Regarding the Whistlers, it's interesting that the white spot is painted on below the eye - instead of between the eye and the base of the bill. I had thought the re-painter of my bird when I got had made a mistake - but I guess they just copied the original Wildfowler's paint pattern.
Regarding those 2 Redheads - they sure do look like Herter's Model Perfect oversize from the late 40s/early 50s. We had 7 Herter's Broadbill that I re-painted (and re-carved the bill) - at my Dad's direction - as Whistlers when I was in high school.
Do yours have a Wildfowlers brand? Yours seem to have larger eyes, set a bit further aft, and may be a one-piece body of Balsa? My Herter's bodies are pieced together.
All the best,
SJS
Hi Steve,
I was convinced the mamoth Redheads were Herters, however, I got lucky and seeing how the original sticker remained on them from when they last sold at auction 23 years ago, I got lucky and had the auction catalog. Julia & Guyette listed them as oversized Atlantic Model Wildfowlers. They are one piece bodies and not laminated or pieced together.
The Goldeneyes pictured in orginal paint are Quogue eras, un-branded and vertically laminated balsa.
The repainted Canvasback and Black Duck are branded Old Saybrook. The Black has the inletted head, bottom board and pine body. Wish they were original or I had your painting abilties.
Now that you mention it the factory got it wrong on the location of the white patch. Looks so odd now that you mention it. Nice job fitting it in on the repaint and in the right spot.
I was convinced the mamoth Redheads were Herters, however, I got lucky and seeing how the original sticker remained on them from when they last sold at auction 23 years ago, I got lucky and had the auction catalog. Julia & Guyette listed them as oversized Atlantic Model Wildfowlers. They are one piece bodies and not laminated or pieced together.
The Goldeneyes pictured in orginal paint are Quogue eras, un-branded and vertically laminated balsa.
The repainted Canvasback and Black Duck are branded Old Saybrook. The Black has the inletted head, bottom board and pine body. Wish they were original or I had your painting abilties.
Now that you mention it the factory got it wrong on the location of the white patch. Looks so odd now that you mention it. Nice job fitting it in on the repaint and in the right spot.
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I guess I am putting my Wildfowler label on the Redheads because of Julia and Guyette's listing, however, the head and roughness are more typical of Herter while atypical of Wildfowler. Looking at you hen Goldeneye I find similar attributes in the head carving-thanks for the doubt and putting me back to the thought of Herters. Was hoping for them to be Wildfowlers over Herters eventhough they will be sold at some point in the nearterm.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Bob~
I used an old (but new enough to describe low VOCs) quart of McCloskey's I salvaged from our transfer station a couple of months ago. It is Man O'War Gloss Spar Marine Varnish - and thins with mineral spirits. Likewise, when I cleaned out my Dad's paint supply last summer, I salvaged a quart of store brand (Channel - a local but now defunct home store on LI) - price sticker reads $4.49. And, I have a gallon of Spar Varnish from Amsterdam Color Works. Since the can just says New York, NY - and no ZIP code - I'm thinking it's from the early 60s. With my low rate of production, my biggest challenge will be to keep this supply from getting contaminated and hardening before I can use it (a big problem with all of my newer varnishes).
I have always found - and was taught by my Dad - that spar n=varnish is an excellent sealer to use under and primers or topcoats.
All the best,
SJS
I used an old (but new enough to describe low VOCs) quart of McCloskey's I salvaged from our transfer station a couple of months ago. It is Man O'War Gloss Spar Marine Varnish - and thins with mineral spirits. Likewise, when I cleaned out my Dad's paint supply last summer, I salvaged a quart of store brand (Channel - a local but now defunct home store on LI) - price sticker reads $4.49. And, I have a gallon of Spar Varnish from Amsterdam Color Works. Since the can just says New York, NY - and no ZIP code - I'm thinking it's from the early 60s. With my low rate of production, my biggest challenge will be to keep this supply from getting contaminated and hardening before I can use it (a big problem with all of my newer varnishes).
I have always found - and was taught by my Dad - that spar n=varnish is an excellent sealer to use under and primers or topcoats.
All the best,
SJS