Repainting BBII

J

Jamus

Member
Hey all--
I'm thinking of repainting the BBII and I'm hoping there might be some thoughts from the group as to how to do it with minimum fuss. When i first built the boat I primed with Ditzler's and then Lou's FME. That original painting as been bullet proof. Over the years however, through minor repairs and dings and whatnots, the boat has had a couple coats of parkers on the deck and interior, which is now starting to let go and come off in sheets. It's a duck boat so it's supposed to be ugly but still a man has his pride.

I'm curious as to what this group recommends on a couple topics:
1) removal of the top coat parkers. Anyway to do this other than sanding? There are lots of knooks and crannies that I'm not too excited about digging into
2) what's the prefered primer for topcoating old paint? for bare epoxy?
3) if the job required a full sanding and repainting, would you do it or not bother?

Thanks
Jamus
 
Hey all--
I'm thinking of repainting the BBII and I'm hoping there might be some thoughts from the group as to how to do it with minimum fuss. When i first built the boat I primed with Ditzler's and then Lou's FME. That original painting as been bullet proof. Over the years however, through minor repairs and dings and whatnots, the boat has had a couple coats of parkers on the deck and interior, which is now starting to let go and come off in sheets. It's a duck boat so it's supposed to be ugly but still a man has his pride.

I'm curious as to what this group recommends on a couple topics:
1) removal of the top coat parkers. Anyway to do this other than sanding? There are lots of knooks and crannies that I'm not too excited about digging into
2) what's the prefered primer for topcoating old paint? for bare epoxy?
3) if the job required a full sanding and repainting, would you do it or not bother?

Thanks
Jamus
Click to expand...


Since I just did this... Sanding to the glass and repainting is a dozens and dozens and dozens of hours job. I spent a lot of time on my hull sanding to the epoxy to fix and fair lots of little dents (for anyone who hasn't done it and asks why it takes soo long it takes a lot of time because things like strakes, hardware and combings get in the way - you need to be super careful that in sanding that you don't breach the epoxy because you are then re epoxying too if that happens). On the outside of the hull I sanded to the epoxy sheer to sheer, I sanded the deck and inside just to smooth the paint - in some places that meant to the epoxy, but mostly just lightly sanding. I would say your best bet would be to sand lightly with 80 grit and fix any things you find as you go. I would say you need to get that Parker's off though and start anew. You could talk to a soda blaster in your area (you have to have lots), but I've never known anyone with a glass on wood boat having it soda blasted.

On the failure of the parkers, I've seen that same thing and it was when I failed to properly prep my surface. I was painting the combing a couple years back and dropped some paint on the sole and said, that could use a touchup and I painted the dirty floor - most of that paint came up. The flat paint holds dirt and oil to its surface and may look good though it is dirty, so prep is important. I've painted Parker over Parker many times and only had problems when I didn't prep. The other day I was wondering about your Parker comments and wonder if surface prep could have been a problem. I find it as durable as FME (neither paint is super durable owing to their flattness), I haven't ever seen chipping or peeling other than where I messed up.

I've never used a primer and have seen nothing but great adhesion of paint to paint and paint to epoxy (Both FME and Parker to Epoxy). I don't think a primer is needed, but there is always a worry with the paint and epoxy reacting. For anyone who doesn't know epoxy that is not fully cured can react with paint and give a very very slow drying paint. I'm pretty sure this is why Devlin was so big onthe Ditzler primers, as a pro can't afford to wait out paint that reacts with epoxy. It eventually dries adn if you can bake i tin the sun it doesn't take long. I've seen it, but ony under cold temps - I've never had a problem in the summer.

As far as bothering, I think at 9 years you are going to find some stuff that needs fixed. Mine was 5 years and I'm glad I did it when I did it.
 
Last edited:
Jamus,
the three choices are sand, soda blast or chemical strip. We have used all three and except for paying for the Soda it all is a lot of work to get down thru it all.
I think the 50\80 to cut into the paint is key when sanding, you are not trying to get all the paint off, but cut just to the glass. Then the 100 finishes the work so you dont go thru.
Todds right. It is hard with all the added deck hardware to get around. But if you get the parker paint moving I think you could leave the FME that is well adhered.
As I told Tod- Workboat Finish. For a full strip the soda blast option might be the best for a family man with no spare time.


Lou?
 
Jamus,
There's only one way to do it and that's.......do it right. ;)
As Tod said, remove any and all loose paint. If it is not adherred, nothing will hold up over it.
Sand with 80 grit paper and only sand where you want paint to stick properly. ;!) (tongue in cheek).

FME is a "primer based paint" and that's all you need where needed.

Your base primer of Ditzler is great. I've literally gone thrugh over 100 gallons of that with various boats & trucks. Great stuff but I would scuff it with sand paper as it has aged and hardened and that will now be necessary to get a bond (Ditz. has a "window" for top coating without sanding).
Holler if I haven't answered what you need to know.
Lou
 
Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback. I'm not keen to resand the boat. The more I've done it (and I have done it here and there for repairs) the more it cuts into the underlying surface, especially when i use a circular sander (8" with the 3m soft back pad). Most of the work to be done is on the deck and interior, which was repaired and repainted. the hull, which was primed with ditzlers and then painted with FME is perfect (faded but perfect). I'll have to give this one some thought... thanks again for the feedback. Really appreciate it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top