Rigging cork decoys

J

Joel W. Brodd

New member
I've been a longtime reader of this forum and really appreciate the collective wisdom of this group of hunters. I recently purchased 18 new old stock L L Bean cork mallard decoys and 6 slightly used Bean cork black duck decoys. I need suggestions on how to rig these cork decoys. They will be used on sloughs, lakes and in rivers. I plan on using 3/16" solid braid nylon from Decoy Rigs, probably 8-10' in length. Not sure if i should use swivels or just attach with a bowline knot. I've generally used a figure 8 wrap around the neck and tail of the decoy with a lead strap weight wrapped around the neck on my plastic and burlapped decoys, but won't be doing that with the cork decoys to prevent deterioration. I'd like to be able to adjust the length of the decoy cord. I could use J weights with a bungee cord and depth adjusters or use an H weight. I'd really appreciate the advice on which rigging method works best for you.

Joel
 
I prefer H weights. I rig about 15ft. I hitch off about half the line and a final hitch at a foot so the weights sit in the bottom of the slotted bags. Since the line is wrapped on the weights, I also use 4/0 swivels at the decoy. This keeps the line from twisting and knotting.
 
Dave,

Thanks for the advice. Do you use a split ring through the keel and attach the 4/0 swivel to the split ring and tie the line to the swivel with a bowline? Also use a bowline to attach the line to the H weight? What's the reason for hitching off half the line instead of a single or double hitch at about 1 foot of line?
 
Bob,
Thanks for the welcome. Do you have a source for the rubberized H weights? Do you experience paint loss and cork deterioration when placing the H weights over the head of your cork blocks?
 
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How strong a current exists where your using decoys? On my beans I,ve used 8OZ. strap weight dipped in black plasti dip a couple times with swivel at decoy end of line. Simply wrap weight around neck to store. The plasti dip does a pretty good job of not marring paint. I do rig mine with about 8' line as to different water depths I normally hunt. I just wrap excess around strap weight if to long when deploying. They do make decoy bags that have pockets alongside decoy pocket to drop weight into if you really want to stop weight from doing damage.
 
Joel how do you plan to carry them around? All tossed into a bag together or in one of those slotted decoy bags?

We use slotted decoy bags. I only use the big mesh bags for plastics if we're going to hunt with a bunch of plastic decoys. Otherwise for the foam, cork and wood decoys we use slotted decoy bags. Wrap the line around the decoy in whatever fashion suits you and/or the decoy. Leave the weight "free" and put the weight at the bottom of the slot and then slide the decoy into the slot and move onto the next decoy. Depending on the size of the slots and the decoys sometimes we have two or three decoys per slot but with the weights at the bottom we don't have issues with them.

In a bag all tossed together I would imagine you'd want to have the weights somehow attached to the decoy like I do with my plastics (strap weight around the neck usually).

Dani
 
I'm another fan of the 1/2 pound strap weights. Mine are not plastic dipped, and I'm a cheapskate with no swivel. Just a bowline at the eye of the anchor, another at the decoy.

I have lines of a variety of lengths, from 4-5' for freshwater and shallow salt water, to 15' for use in deep salt water. Keep in mind that a typical hunt for me starts near low tide and hunts the rise, and we have 9+' tides here.

I wrap the line around the decoy just behind the head for storage, with the last couple of turns around the neck and the strap weight wrapped tightly over the neck. I see a little rubbed paint around the wrap point, but actually see more paint damage from my decoy bags on the tails.

As for bags, cork decoys for me always go in slotted bags, with the anchors securely wrapped around the heads so they don't fall off. You want bags that have the dividers sewed down to the bottom of the bag, which prevents anything that gets loose--anchors and decoy line--from tangling with loose items from other slots. You'd beat the snot out of the paint and cork or wood in an undivided bag.

I have bags from Dave Clark (Canvasbacks of the St. Lawrence) and Diane (Bags by Diane) and both are excellent. I have one from LL Bean where the slot dividers are not sewed down, and if anyone wants it, it's yours for the cost of shipping. Guaranteed to have one tangled mess every trip with that bag.
 
Joel,

I'm sorry I don't have a source. I bought them at a decoy show some years ago from who I don't recall. Before I started using weights either coated or duct taped I did have a little wear and tear, but really minimal since. If you intend to place the weights over the head just make sure they will fit. To minimize the number of weights I need I just clip them to my decoys so I can take them off decoys I won't be using and and put them on the ones I will.
 

I use a Snap & Swivel to attach anchor line to the decoy, no matter what kind of weight. It prevents line twisting. Plus I can adjust the line length, by running the line though the connection loop on the decoy, and then attach the Snap & Swivel to the anchor.

No matter how you wrap the wet line around cork decoys. NEVER allow the line to dry while on the decoy, as it will tighten and create indentations on the cork.

After the hunt, unwrap the line, allow it to dry, and then wrap it around the decoy, if that is what you do.

If you use the figure eight wrap, from tail to head/neck with wet line. When the line dries on the decoy, stress will affect the head/neck, and create problems that are avoidable.

This method has served me well, with Bean decoys, and other cork blocks for many years.

just my 2 cents
 
If you bag them another little tip to avoid the wear on tail boards is to pick up a closed cell foam exercise mat from wally world. Cut to fit into bottom of bag slots or if slots not sewed down cut for entire length of one side and feed under compartments. I,ve found that's where the most wear has occurred on my dekes ,especially when bagged and stored and bottom of bags wet. That little bit of padding afforded by the closed cell foam works great. Old GI sleeping mats work great to for same effect.
 
I use typically tie the swivels to the keels with a short piece of decoy line. Most of my cork birds have wooden keels and are too wide for any clips. Even on the foam decoys with screw eyes, I still don't use clips, just personal preference. Clips would be easier/quicker. The 2 seperate hitches are just because I rig with much more line than I usually need. But being an Eagle Scout, and engineer, I always think "just in case". And I do use bowlines at the H weight and swivel. Always using nylon braided tarred line, flaming the cut ends.
 
I like to keep my decoys in a slotted decoy bag and my weights/line in a weight bag.
I add a loop on the decoy keel. I tie decoy line to H weight on the other end of the decoy line I use a long line clip. When putting out decoys I go into weight bag and grab a line then attach it to the decoy.
When bring in the decoys I unclip to long line clip then wrap the line around the h weight. Decoy in the bag
 
Vince,

Thanks for the caution to never wrap a wet line on a cork decoy. I'll avoid that potential problem and use an H decoy and avoid wrapping any line around the decoy. What size snap and swivel do you use on Bean wood keels?
 
Roy,

I seldom hunt in fast water, so an 8 oz. weight should be adequate. A great tip to install closed cell foam in the bottom of the slotted bags. Thanks!
 
Jeff,

I didn't realize the need for slotted dividers to be sewn to the bottom. I have some RigemRight bags with unsewn bottoms, but based on your advice, I'll purchase some new bags from Dave Clark or Diane.
 
Dave,

As an eagle scout and an engineer, I understand your "belt and suspenders" point of view for 2 separate hitches. What decoy line do you recommend? 'm leaning toward Decoy Rigs 3/16" or 5/32" solid braid yarn dyed olive drab nylon. Do you also have a recommendation for H weights? Thanks.
 
Bill,

Thanks for your suggestions. I've decided to keep the lines attached to the decoy and an H anchor. Any suggestions where I can purchase some H anchors?




 
These look good but I haven't purchased from them:

http://www.douglasnets.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62


I found them on the net and haven't needed any yet.
 
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