Rigging cork decoys

Joel W. Brodd said:
Jeff,

I didn't realize the need for slotted dividers to be sewn to the bottom. I have some RigemRight bags with unsewn bottoms, but based on your advice, I'll purchase some new bags from Dave Clark or Diane.

I don't know if it's a need, but having used both, the sewn-down dividers are way preferable. I made do with the LL Bean unsewn bags for years until my wife one of Dave Clark's for Christmas one year and I realized how much of an advantage it is.
 
I have a mold and make my own H weights. Bring some lead, and some beer and we will make all you need! I use #36 tarred line. I like how knots hold with the tarred line. A thicker line is easier to handle, but then gets a little much to fit on the H weights. It is a trade off. I tried twisted, tarred line once, will only ever use braided going forward.



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Dave,

I appreciate the offer to make some H weights for me and I would supply the beer, but a trip from Wisconsin to Virginia is not on the horizon-unless I could squeeze in a few days of hunting! I'll check on the tarred braided line. I'm also concerned that if I buy 3/16" line that it may be too thick for wrapping around an H decoy. How do these weights look?
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Joel, I too, like Jeff, use slotted bags with sewn down pockets. I also have mesh bottoms to allow water (and ice) to drain out. Once the season starts I do not wrap my lines on my decoys, I simply put the H-weight in first, then any loose line, then the decoy. I use a half-hitch to adjust the length.
 
Joel -

I am not familiar with the snap & swivels in your photo. They may suit yours needs and the way that you rig your decoys.


These are the snap & swivels that I use on my Bean, and all other decoys. I purchased many of them in the 1980's, and they work well for me.

I use a loop of very good decoy line to attach the snap & swivel to the decoy. This way it is very easy to adjust depth, or take the line and anchor off.


As far a bags. I use individual bags for some of my decoys, depending on what and where I'm hunting. They help to save paint. I dislike repainting my decoys.

Bean decoys, and many other cork, wood, and canvas decoys, are just placed in large plastic round tubs (no bags), that have nylon rope handles. I picked up that idea many years ago while gunning at Chincoteague,VA. It may sound impractical for decoy storage, but it works very well.




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Vince,

Thanks for the information. I think I'll just tie a short loop of decoy line to the keel (as you have done) with an attached swivel and tie the remaining line to an attached H anchor. What material have you applied to the bottom of your Bean decoys?
 
Joel -

Your very welcome. Hope the setup works for you and your hunting conditions. We each use what works best for us.


The "material" I applied on the bottom of the Bean decoys.

First some coats of Rust-Oleum flat black to fill all voids, then allowed to cure for long periods between applications.

The finish coat is a couple applications of Rust-Oleum Gloss Black. Also allowed to cure for a long time between coats. The gloss paint seems to be much more durable and protective in my opinion.


After I dug those Bean's out. I realized how long it has been since my old gunning partner and I used them in our large rig for Mallards. Mallards were his favorite duck to hunt, and my least favorite. They saw lots of use on the inland lakes of PA & Ohio. Hopefully I'll gun over them again when I find a NY gunning partner.
 
[size 4] Joel,
I am also a proponent of "H" style decoy weights. They make it easy to adjust the line length for whatever water depth you may encounter, merely by looping of the line on one of the corner tabs. On the Ohio River, I may encounter water levels anywhere from 12" to 12' depending on location, rainfall, snow-melt, etc.

I do carry my decoys in pocket bags which hang under the shelves of my TDB, and each pocket has a pouch that the weight can be dropped into - although that's not a necessity.


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"H" anchors are easy to make with a routed hardwood mold that can tailor the size & weight of the anchor you feel serves your purpose, Surprisingly, it may take far less weight than you think to hold a fairly heavy cork decoy even in current.

Last time I made up a batch of anchors, I was able to put a nice rubberized coating on them by dipping them all in that "Plasti-Dip compound used for tool handles. Makes them easy to handle and helps protect decoys.



View attachment Anchor3.jpg View attachment anchors 002 (600 x 399).jpg



Good quality swivels can be obtained at many outdoors suppliers and attached to keep lines from tangling or twisting. I also switched to the Tangle-Free decoy line some years back. Found that it was less trouble with regards to wet lines freezing in frigid temps and being frozen on the weight on a frigid morning following the previous day's hunt. Haven't had any issue with the Tangle-Free stiffening up on me at all.

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Vince,

Thanks again for the info on your L.L.Bean decoys. I reviewed your website and discovered your great ability in carving a variety of beautiful decoys. Very impressive! I truly admire your talent.
Hopefully you'll find a new gunning partner-maybe an apprentice carver who shoots his dad's model 12 that you could mentor. Best regards.

Joel
 
MLBob,

Thanks for all of your advice. The Plasti-Dip on the H decoys is a great tip. I assume an 8 oz. weight is plenty.
The redhead carved decoy on your Facebook page is fantastic. Hunting buddies have been know to shoot my working spread of Toledo divers, so I'd be afraid to put that decoy in my spread. Nice looking duck call as well. You have a great talent!
I have 400 lb. monofilament on some of my individual divers, wrapped around the keel with a bungeed J weight. The line does kink a little from being wrapped around the keel. I'll research the pros and cons of Tanglefree v. 1/8 or 3/32 nylon braided line. Was freezing of the braided line on the weights a big hassle or were you able to pull the frozen line off the anchor? Any recommendation for swivels? Thanks.

Joel
 

Joel -

Thank you for your kind words and thoughts. I'm just a old duck hunter that has wasted/devoted most of my life doing what I so much love & enjoy. Thank God.

I wish you all the best.
VP
 
Joel,

Braided line shouldn't be a huge hassle, but as I said, I do remember having it freeze when being wrapped around the weights. If that's the case, it will thaw when it hits the water, but may still hang up while winding off. Not a big deal.

Here is a picture of the swivels I use. I prefer the ones with the more rounded clip, but I have brass eyes in the decoy keels I put on my birds, so either one does the job for me. The rounded clip is easier
for me to take on & off.
Entire swivel measures 3 3/8" stretched out. The black color on the swivel usually wears off over time, but they can't be seen anyway.


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8 oz is more than enough weight, and half that works for me.... and my cork birds are pretty heavy.
 
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