Separating clamp brackets on outboard engine? *** SUCCESS!!!

CAnderson

CAnderson

Well-known member
I have a mid 90s Mercury outboard with the shallow water drive. Essentially, it is a separate bracket that flips down to allow the engine to be supported in a raised up position.

Last year the reverse lock rod broke and allowed the engine to jump up quickly when put into reverse. When this happened and the engine came back down, the shallow water drive bar bent.

I have all of the replacement parts and am trying to install them. To do so, I need to separate the clamp bracket. I was able to turn the large nuts on the top part of the clamp. The bottom uses a through bolt that extends the entire way of the clamp bracket. It appears there was either corrosion between the bracket and the bolt, or when assembled, someone used white 3M 5200 sealant. I have only been able to separate the bracket on the lower end by an 1/8inch or so. I need it to open up quite a bit more to get the new bar installed.

Any suggestions on how to do this? I was nervous about applying heat due to the bracket being aluminum. To this point I have used all the force I am willing to apply unless i am told it can handle more. I fear cracking one of the aluminum brackets. If that happens, I could very well be out for the season.

Thanks for help or suggestions.


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Low heat would losen up the 5200. For corrosion, a good penetrating lube and wire brushing the threads works for me. Good luck, steel tends to get stuck in aluminum.
 
I'm not quite sure just what pieces you are referring to so it makes it hard to offer a concrete suggestion. If you can furnish a year and model number I may be able to come up with a schematic of the parts in question. Then I may be able to offer a valid suggestion once I see just what you are dealing with.

Like you, I hate to break something that isn't broke. :>)
 
Dave-

Here are some more specifics on the outboard in question. The engine is a 40hp, 2stroke, Mercury SeaPro, 0G141435.

Here is a link to boats.net parts diagram for the clamp bracket assembly for my engine.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/MercuryMarine/0g141435/494/220/CLAMP%20BRACKET/parts.html

Part #32 is the shallow water drive bar that got damaged when the reverse lock out rod broke.

Part #13 is the through bolt that I am having problems with. It is made (I think) of stainless steel.

Parts #1,2 are the clamp brackets and they appear to be made of aluminum.

Part #14 is the spacer that keeps the appropriate space between the clamp brackets on the bottom side.

Currently, the self locking nuts are removed on the stainless steel through bolt (13) and I have separated the clamp bracket about an 1/8" or so. The top of the clamp is free moving and non-binding. I need to separate the clamp brackets (1 and 2) enough so that the shallow water drive bar (32) can be set in placed and then close the clamp brackets again.

I hope that makes it more clear, like tan mud rather than black mud.

Thanks for the help and consideration.

cja

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Try cutting out a couple of inches in the dead center of #13 & replace it.

Use some penatrating oil & back them out separetly.

Might even try a low heat acetolene plumbers torch & heat up around the bolt holes of #1-#2
 
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I suspect that the thru bolt (#13) is corroded where it passes thru the clamp bracket itself. (actually the corroded part would be the clamp bracket) You may be able to move the thru bolt by tapping on either end of it. Do not hammer on it directly but use a hardwood block to protect the end of the bolt.

Even better would be to use the nuts (#8 & #21) to pull the bolt back and forth to free it up. Put a couple extra washers on one side leaving just enough threads to install the nut. Tighten the nut as much as possible. With no nut on the opposite end, the thru bolt should either turn or slide with in the clamp bracket and spacer towards the nut you are tightening. If it moves even just a bit you are gaining ground. Take the nut off that end and repeat the process from the other end. During this time keep everything well lubed with a penetrating solvent to free up the corrosion. Once it is free enough to pull it all the way out, clean it up and put some grease on it to slowdown further corrosion.

Hope this helps/works for you. A bit of heat from a propane torch onto the spacer, may or may not help. As a last resort you can do as has been suggested and cut the bolt and spacer to facilitate removal and then replace those parts.
View attachment 22.jpeg
 
Thanks for posting the breakdown photo here Dave. The spacer is free floating. I got that apart yesterday. Tomorrow I will try some penetrate oil in the joints on both sides. I have an O/A setup so I could apply heat with the rosebud if needed. I did try to persuade the through bolt with a dead blow while using the nut to protect the threads. You gave me another idea though with using the nuts to apply force to draw the bolt back and forth to break the grip of the corrosion.

thanks

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I hope it works for you. I sure don't envy you guys who have to deal with salt water exposure. I'll take my fresh water, it's bad enough at times.
 
I really don't mean to be a smart ass but do you have the bar #10 off the bottom? I came to this party late and may have missed something. I also really don't envy you salt water guys when things break. The best penetrating oil I have found is KROIL. Good luck and keep us advised.
 
Tom-

By no means are you late to the party. That was a great catch from the breakdown image. I had to run out just hoping I was dumb enough to have missed it. Unfortunately, I don't have that bar on my engine clamps, nor are there actual provisions on the clamp to install the bar. Thanks for the tip on KROIL. I will try some PB Blaster first, because that is what I have in stock. If it doesn't work, then I will make the drive to find some KROIL.

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Well I have broken and watched students break parts for years so it just comes natural now. Good luck on finding Kroil retail. The one place I have seen it available is in the gun cleaning area at Cabelas. For better or worse I live 7 miles from one of their stores. At school we ordered direct from the factory. NAPA has a pretty good penitrating oil but I don't remembver what it is called. Heat may be one of your best friends on this job.
 
Instead of Kroil mix acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50/50. You can do some google searches to see just how well it works. I read a study a while back and it surpassed all products on the market in helping break rusted parts free.
 
Tom

Just remember to shake the solution often. ATF and acetone don't stay mixed for long.

Eric
Click to expand...


I did some reading last night after you posted the thing and I was surprised that you use Acetone when it doesn't stay mixed with the ATF, but that may be the beauty of the stuff for some reason. I also read form references that that original study may have used brake fluid, not ATF, but I got to the point where I wasn't finding any new info so I gave up. It does seem likely that some of the automotive lubes would work well for us like as a gun oil, but knowing what ones would be nice.

One thing I have to stop doing is buying lubes in spray cans, what a waste as there is hardly any in there. I need to get soem old fashoned oil cans - they are hard to find.

T
 
Eric, Thanks, I will keep that in mind.
Guys, guys- There is a huge difference between something that is rusted solid from non use and something that is worn out from overuse.
 
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