Some Thoughts

Al Hansen

Well-known member


While leaving Alaska one fine early June morning heading for the Lower 48, I was just past Palmer, AK, when I came to a flagman standing in the middle of the road. I came to a full stop and could see that there was a construction project up ahead. The young man walked over to my truck and said, “Sir, you might as well turn off your truck because it will be a while.” Well, being the curious sort I then asked, “What might you mean by a while?” He looked at me and said, “3 hours.”

Funny how some can bitch about having to wait, others just bite their lips to absorb their frustrations, and then there is me. I got out of my truck, dug in to my supply of goodies in back under the topper, that I always bring along for “just in case” things that might happen. I grabbed my tripod, spotting scope, took out my binoculars from the front seat, poured a cup of hot coffee out of the thermos and proceeded to look for animals. It wasn’t long before I spotted a black bear looking for breakfast up in the alpine area of the mountains. Back a bit farther I spotted some Dall sheep--- a small band made up of ewes and their new born lambs. It was a great morning and the time passed by quickly for me. The one thing that Alaska taught me in life was to know all about p-a-t-i-e-n-c-e. I quickly learned that you take it one day at a time. Heck, I hadn’t even reached the Alcan Highway yet and I already knew that it was going to take me at least 3 days to drive over it—that 1,000 + miles of an all gravel road. It held mysteries around every bend, little things like, I wonder how long this stretch of potholes will last when I would be forced to drive 15 miles an hour and know that was too fast? Or, how can it get any dustier than this and just then an 18 wheeler would blow by you? All you could do was slow down to a crawl and wait for the dust to settle down.

That all made me think of the time I broke down on the Alcan out in the middle of no-where. I had no idea where I was other than I knew I was somewhere close to the middle of the Alcan. When I finally got a ride from this older couple who stopped to see if they could help me, with luck they got me to a 24 hours gas station and restaurant. I’ll bet we hadn’t gone two miles. Anyway, it was at this station where the owner told me that I had about 400 miles to go to Whitehorse, which is in the Yukon Territory. He had already told me that he could not fix my car and it would have to be hauled to either Dawson Creek, BC or Whitehorse. Just then a bus came into the station and the passengers got off to stretch and maybe buy some snacks. I asked him how often it came through and he told me once every three days. I then made a decision to buy a ticket and head back to Fort Nelson where I could catch a CP Air to Whitehorse, then off to Fairbanks, and finally to Anchorage. I already knew that I would have to buy another vehicle and drive back to pick up my car.
I sat in the first seat on the right side so I could see down that road and get the best view. The bus driver was of the talkative sort so the time went by about as fast as any trip on the Alcan could go. About half way to my destination we came around this bend to a long straight stretch and way in the distance, we could see the construction equipment on the highway. He muttered a few “expletives” and said, “Oh my God, this can’t be happening to me again,” as he came to a stop. The flagman looked at him and said, “I’m sorry sir, but this one will take some time, maybe 4 hours or so.” The backhoe operator had just set up, was level and was about to begin digging a trench across the highway to replace an old battered culvert that was put in when the Alcan was first built back in the early 40s during the war. In a split second, the driver was clambering out of his bus and sprinting for the backhoe operator. I could see that there was a lively conversation going on just because of the hand gestures. He came hustling back with a subtle smile on his face just as I saw the backhoe pick up his levelers and move his rig out of the way so we could pass on by. I often wondered if that cost the bus driver a case of beer for that favor. Oh, by the way when I finally got home, I bought a new 1972, yellow Chevy Luv truck and the following day headed back to get my car. It was 1,315 miles to that station. Yes, and I brought along a case of beer for the owner.

The Alcan Highway back in the 1960s was always a challenge to drive. People from the United States that were heading for Alaska often had a hard time with it. Some wanted to sue the Canadian government for the damage it did to their campers, R-V, pickups and or cars. It was almost hilarious to listen to them complain because none of them were prepared for what was happening to them. How can you tell some one about all your blow outs because you drove too fast, broken windshields, broken head lights, paint chips galore on the front end of your rig, and then there was the dust. Dust that somehow got into your suitcases packed with clothing that you put inside a plastic bag----then sealed it----and yet that dust seemed to find its way in. My gosh, I loved those 6 times I drove the Alcan. The scenery was always changing and if you have never been in this country it will quickly show you what a mere speck of sand you really are in this beautiful world we live in. Never in my life have I ever seen such a magnificent expanse of sheer beauty. How can one really try and tell another that you just saw thousands of square miles of land that was most likely uninhabited and that it left you speechless for finding the right words to describe it?
Al
 
My buddies daughter drove from Eagle River to Boston to go to school [freshman year]. Had a buddy from Ak to Chicago. Camped all the way. Cap was full of stuff, so they had a tent. Every three days they hoteled it for showers. Went through two of the three spare tires.
After a year in Boston, transfered to Arizona. Not much hunting, fishing in Boston. Flew to Boston drove to Arizona, finished school there
and drove her truck back to AK.
True Alaska girl. Works as a nurse there and still hunts and fishes.
 
Al
I too, like many others have traveled the Alcan highway and will never forget the trip. Always starting early in the morning the next day we always saw a variety of animals taking the salt from the side of the road. It is a spectacular ride and should be on everyone's "to do list". Thanks for sharing that.
wis boz
 
Al it is hard to believe that there is still places with nothing around for miles but I think thats what I love most about our country,,,I have driven in places like Labrador and not see another person for a hundred miles ,,,,I hope one day to take trips like you have been on,,I guess there is alot to see in city's but to travel to remote destinations by car would be more of an adventure for sure and you sound like the people here when you drop off a case of beer,,,I know many people in alot of difffernt jobs,,I once needed an electricain and after they were done fixing the problem I asked what the bill was and was told never mind it was small and quick to fix,,,I called them at lunch to make sure they stopped on the way home and had a case waiting,,,my girlfriend (or wife as she calls herself) could not believe that people actually do that,,,,,,Chuck
 
I have visited Alaska 3 times so far and in '89 had the privilige of driving. Took off with a '72 Chev pickup and Skamper pop up camper. We traveled with another couple who had a matching camper on a Ford pickup. The paint was hardly dry on my pickup after a full repaint but except for our "Northern Star" in the windsheild we made the trip w/o any problems. This summer my wife and a friend are going up again. They are going to Washington to catch the ferry to Haines and drive from there. The Alcan was no worse than county 2 lane roads then. We stopped at a flagman and started to shoot the breeze during the wait. When he found out where we were headed he gave us a map to his cabin and told us to pull in there, fish and stay as long as we wanted. Amazing trip and will go again. We were gone 5 weeks and really didn't want to come home.
 
My buddies daughter drove from Eagle River to Boston to go to school [freshman year]. Had a buddy from Ak to Chicago. Camped all the way. Cap was full of stuff, so they had a tent. Every three days they hoteled it for showers. Went through two of the three spare tires.
After a year in Boston, transfered to Arizona. Not much hunting, fishing in Boston. Flew to Boston drove to Arizona, finished school there
and drove her truck back to AK.
True Alaska girl. Works as a nurse there and still hunts and fishes.

Rich, she sure sounds like a true Alaskan. It is good to know that she is exactly where she wants to be.

When you mentioned Eagle River, that made me think of all the high school basketball games I have reffed there.
Al
 
Al
I too, like many others have traveled the Alcan highway and will never forget the trip. Always starting early in the morning the next day we always saw a variety of animals taking the salt from the side of the road. It is a spectacular ride and should be on everyone's "to do list". Thanks for sharing that.
wis boz

Hi Jim,
I couldn't agree with you more. I'm wondering what it must be like today and how much traffic the Alcan now has.
Back in the 60s there wasn't much at all which made it all the better for viewing wildlife. So many of the vehicles that I would see would have "Alaska or Bust" scribbled in the mud that caked the sides and backs of most cars and trucks from that very long gravel road.
Al
 
Al it is hard to believe that there is still places with nothing around for miles but I think thats what I love most about our country,,,I have driven in places like Labrador and not see another person for a hundred miles ,,,,I hope one day to take trips like you have been on,,I guess there is alot to see in city's but to travel to remote destinations by car would be more of an adventure for sure and you sound like the people here when you drop off a case of beer,,,I know many people in alot of difffernt jobs,,I once needed an electricain and after they were done fixing the problem I asked what the bill was and was told never mind it was small and quick to fix,,,I called them at lunch to make sure they stopped on the way home and had a case waiting,,,my girlfriend (or wife as she calls herself) could not believe that people actually do that,,,,,,Chuck

Thanks for that, Chuck. You are one very fortunate man who lives in a country that is surrounded in beauty. You can drive to so many places that are uninhabited. What is good to know, is that you can still do it today. Don't forget to take advantage of that.
Al
 
I have visited Alaska 3 times so far and in '89 had the privilige of driving. Took off with a '72 Chev pickup and Skamper pop up camper. We traveled with another couple who had a matching camper on a Ford pickup. The paint was hardly dry on my pickup after a full repaint but except for our "Northern Star" in the windsheild we made the trip w/o any problems. This summer my wife and a friend are going up again. They are going to Washington to catch the ferry to Haines and drive from there. The Alcan was no worse than county 2 lane roads then. We stopped at a flagman and started to shoot the breeze during the wait. When he found out where we were headed he gave us a map to his cabin and told us to pull in there, fish and stay as long as we wanted. Amazing trip and will go again. We were gone 5 weeks and really didn't want to come home.

Boy, Tom, that sounded wonderful. Doesn't it make you feel good to still be able to find people like you did who offered his cabin? That is amazing! When I first took the ferry to Haines, I had to drive to Prince Rupert, British Columbia because that is where the ferry terminal was at that time. Great trip, also.

Of the 6 trips on the Alcan, I never had a flat tire. That seems hard to imagine especially when you think of what the tires were made of back in the 60s and early 70s.
Al
 
Since I have never been to Alaska what I take from that story is how you should live your life. Accept things that you can't control, and make something great out of what is at hand.
 
Thanks Al. I have driven up the Alcan three times and down once. I have not been on it since 1990, when I made a winter trip after spending the fall driving around the Lower 48 with my best friend after college. Alcan in winter, talk about lonely, and cold. We stopped at Liard Hot Springs around midnight, and went for a soak. It was really interesting getting dressed again as our feet froze to the bottom step or staid wet in the next one down. Hot foot at 50 below kind of dance.

These days the majority of the road has been paved at least once. However, there are sections that paving does not last more than a couple years. The frost heaves between the AK border and Beaver Creek Yukon are pretty wonderful.

My second trip up was when they were working on by passing Trutch. That was a fun mountain to climb, and the new (decades old now) road through the valley below takes some of the fun out of it. Trutch had a huge junk yard at an old service station. Back in the 1980s that junk yard rescued a few friends that needed spare parts for their old junk cars that died on the mountain.

On my last trip down in September 1989, we were in the section of the Alcan south of Whitehorse where the route winds between the Yukon and BC along their border. It was dirt then - still may be - but well maintained and fast. Like most Canadian roads they do not take out the corners like US roads. When the sign says 30Km/h for speed you better be doing that or less. I came around a corner slowly and there on the side of the road was a five legged black bear. What?! No way! So I hit the brakes but was already well past him, and he headed into the alders. My buddy was in his truck about 30 seconds behind me and didn't see anything. My five legged black bear was actually a totally black wolf, and the fifth leg was its huge tail coming down to the ground. The yellow eyes were as bright as the sun.

In August 1987 I was making my second trip north in a used Dodge Power Wagon my Dad and his buddy had found for a few bucks and got running. (BTW its was not worth it but that is a long sad story of busted knuckels and lost wrenches.) I had flown down at the end summer before school to visit and drive my "new" truck back up to school. In southern BC I was just south of the Banff-Jasper park. It was dark around 11pm, and the highway was pretty empty execpt for truck traffic. And that is when I saw the UFO up ahead of me. it was small and glowing in my head lights. As I got closer it appeared to attacking a bull elk standing in the middle of the road. Then I realised I was pretty tired and it was one of the many park elk that have reflective colars on them to warn drivers that there elk around on the road. I needed to pull over and sleep after that. Early in the morning I was in norther Nevada when a B52 flew over me about 200 feet over the highway. Now the glow in the dark elk. I had had enough and found a wide spot to sleep it off.

A few days later I was south of Kluane Lake where the road went over this series of large ridges - think moto-cross whoop jumps but more spread out. There was a huge head wind. Ahead of me I found two motorbike riders on those fancy Dakar bikes. They were jumping the whoops into the wind and hanging there for a second or so. I had to come to a crawl to not run over them on the back sides of the whoops as they floated back down to the road.

North of Whitehorse there are signs warning of horses. The only time I did not see horses there was in the one winter trip. In 1987 I noticed some horses right near the first sign and they were running up the hillside above the highway. One of the horses looked funny. I had to stop and watch. It was the largest mule deer buck I have ever seen live on the hoof. Even bigger than the national park toads I had seen in Utah. Well into the 180 inch zone typical rack, still covered in velvet in late August. He was gone before I could get the camera out and take a shot.

The best french toast in North America. There is a small native town on the north side of a lake that is crossed with a long bridge. BC someplace. Just across the bridge there was a gravel lot on the west side of the road. This was my first trip north in 1986 and I was traveling with a friend of my sister's who was going back to Fairbanks to get her belongings for a permanent move to San Diego. She was a skinny girl and was always hungry, so we stopped at the little shack to see what we could find for a hot meal. And when I say shack I am serious. It was about 20 feet wide and 15 feet long and inside was a kitchen in one corner taking up about 1/4 of the space then counters with stools right there at the grill and around the perimeter of the wall. no tables. One young native man and his grandma were cooking. Lots of simple food, but the loaves of homemade bread caught my eye and I ordered french toast. It was the most wonderful french toast ever. The egg batter was perfect custard when cooked in the 2 inch thick slices of bread, the mix of cinnimon and sugar dust and Canadian maple syrup was spectacular. The next time through there it was just a gravel lot. Sigh.

Jasper Alberta...in the summer with all the tourists...not a bad place to rest up when you are a young man. Stunning scenery above you as well as around you in the crowds. I must have fallen in love at least five times in the few hours we spent there that day.

The Cassiar highway back then had only one lane bridges, but a lot of truck traffic from long distance trucking and the asbestos mine. However, it is the most stunning roadside scenery I have ever witnessed. We where in a rush and did not stop to enjoy, but I am glad it was not my turn to drive and I could spend the day looking outside. However, the skinny girl was driving and she was looking outside as well and we nearly lost a game of chicken on one of those one lane bridges.

The road washes out near Muncho Lake often. The stone sheep gather at the construction sites and get fed by the workers. Lunch hour can slow things down with all the critters hanging out for munchies and the tourists snapping photos. And the bypass roads built down into the washouted creek beds don't help when a tourist in a small car gets highcentered on a boulder when they can't tell the difference between creekbed and road.
 
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