South Bay Spa Treatment - 2018 #1

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
All~


Episode 1 - The Hull



I am wrapping up the first (of probably 4 this year) rehabs of another South Bay Duck Boat - the venerable 'glass "grassboats" built by Red Magnus et al for many years. (I have heard someone has bought the molds recently....)


This vessel was in very good shape, but needed the usual floorboards and motor board. The owner gave me a list of things that needed attention. The thatch rails were sound but - like several other South Bay owners - a taller and wider spray shield was on The List. And, I always exert my "complete creative control" and spruce up things that I think need sprucing up.


View attachment sm MSB 01 - intake.JPG



The hull was almost new - both inside and out. The bottom itself has lived a charmed life. Only surface scratches and no sign of impact or erosion (although the corners of the very stern had been chewed by a prop once or twice).


After cleaning and a light sanding, I masked the turn of the bilge all around the hull.



View attachment sm MSB 02 Bottom taped at bow.JPG



Everything got 2 coats of Pettit #3303 - Dull Dead Grass.


View attachment sm MSB 03 - Bottom with strakes taped for painting.JPG



The interior was also painted (after some later installations). I was careful to mask the "builder's plate" and the USCG capacity certificate.


View attachment sm MSB 07 - builder plate taped for painting.JPG



As usual nowadays, I had the registration numbers made by www.diylettering.com. Having hand-painted enough names and numbers when I was a young man, I really appreciate the speed, ease and quality of these numbers. I used the "Alaska" font in grey with a black border. It hides well enough from waterfowl eyes - but makes a good faith effort to be visible to law enforcement et al.



View attachment sm MSB 05 - new registration numbers.JPG



The NYS sticker on the starboard side was too far forward. So, I removed it with a heat gun and putty knife and glued it back on further aft. My OCD would not tolerate asymmetry!


View attachment sm MSB 06 - peeling numbers.JPG



The topside also needs just cleaning (done) and light sanding, but only after several things get bolted to or through the deck.


Stay tuned,


SJS











 
All~


Episode 2 - The Motor Board


I have seen motor boards on South Bays made of laminated plywood, White Oak and Teak. This one was of White Oak and in fairly good shape - no structural rot.


View attachment sm MB 01 - original motorboard.JPG



I like to set the board itself off from the hull for 2 reasons. First, to minimize the surface area between the board and the hull that could trap moisture and eventually encourage rot. The other is to provide a handhold for lifting.


I use these standoffs to clear the lip of the deck and to provide space for a hand. Edges are curved and rounded. The shallow borings a fit an Evinrude 9.9.


View attachment sm MB 02.JPG



Here is the aft side comparison.


View attachment sm MB 03.JPG



I bore a fifth hole for 2 purposes. I hang the boards when they are getting their 3 coats of epoxy and 2 coats of paint. And, if someone installs a transom plug, the plug can be tied to the motor board with a decoy line "keeper".


View attachment sm MB 04.JPG



The original fifth hole in the transom gets filled with thickened epoxy.


View attachment sm MB 05 - transom with center hole filled.JPG



I mask the areas on the hull to maximize the adhesion from the 3M 5200 with which I bed the board.


View attachment sm MB 06 - transom ready for new motorboard.JPG



No backer board was needed inside because half-inch plywood was 'glassed in. So, I used s/s fender washers and nylon-insert lock nuts. (BTW: I just noticed this photo was upside down - because it's easier for me to install transom and deck hardware when the boat is flipped on its back.)



View attachment sm MB 08 - motorboard bolts and fender washers.JPG



This "fender" will keep a gas tank from chafing against the hardware.


View attachment sm MB 09 - Fender.JPG



Here's everything after paint.


View attachment sm MB 10.JPG



I up-sized the s/s carriage bolts from 1/4" to 3/8".


View attachment sm MB 07 - Transom board and 3M 5200.JPG



I let the 5200 cure for a couple of days before a light sanding and painting.


All the best,


SJS











 
All~


Episode 3 - Floorboards


I usually need to start from scratch with new floorboards. These were in good shape - pretty sure they are marine plywood. The stock floorboards are mostly rectangular and are not fastened to the boat; each half is attached to the other with screws into 2 free-floating wooden cleats.



These are all sawn and routed and sanded and then coated with epoxy.



View attachment sm FB 01 - floorboards upper.JPG



My floorboards follow the curve of the hull and are held in place by 4 wooden turnbuttons. They can be easily removed for cleaning, etc. The wooden cleats keep the floorboards from deflecting under the gunner's weight.


View attachment sm FB 02 - Floorboards underside and cleats.JPG



I bought the bag of painter's sand in the 1980s. I did not have enough for the whole job - so I bought the little plastic cup. At $6 per....what would a cubic yard cost?


View attachment sm FB 03 - Sand for non-skid.JPG



I added a light non-skid to that part of the floorboards that is open to the cockpit. Playground sand is much coarser - great if you're only standing on the floorboards but not it you're sitting or lying down.


The perpendicular boards across each floorboard are "curbs" to keep stowed gear from bouncing or sliding aft when under way.



View attachment sm FB 04 - Floorboards with non-skid.JPG



This port allows for bailing without removing the floorboards.


View attachment sm FB 05 - Bailing port through floorboards.JPG



I mask for the first application of sand into the wet paint. Two more coats seal everything in.


View attachment sm FB 06 - Non-skid.JPG



Almost done when I noticed some delamination. So, thickened epoxy, some cellophane tape and some clamps to the rescue.


BTW: This plywood is half-inch. I typically use 3/8 for floorboards - but always prefer to re-use if I can


View attachment sm FB 07 - Floorboard delam repair.JPG



Here are the turnbutton assemblies. No tools needed to install or remove the floorboards.



View attachment sm FB 08 Turnbutton.JPG



The button will be fastened with an oval head s/s wood screw when I install the floorboards (after some more work through the deck).


View attachment sm FB 09 Turnbutton 2.JPG



All the best,


SJS



















 
All~


Episode 4 - Spray Shield


As I mentioned earlier, a number of South Bay owners have requested larger spray shields. I have made 3 shields taller in recent years. But, other gunners want shields both taller and wider. I had built a jig to make shields taller - by adding an extension bolted to the original. To go wider, too, though, required an all-new and more complex jig.


Here's the vessel with the factory spray shield removed.


View attachment sm SS 06 - spray shield removed.JPG



I began with some careful measurements using a piece of 1/8-inch Masonite bent around the original shield. One discovery was that the deck camber was not symmetrical; it's a bit lower on the port deck than the starboard. I do not know if this is unique to this boat or is typical of South Bays. I guess I'll find out when I get to South Bays 2, 3 and 4.....


View attachment sm SS 01 - spray shield mockup.JPG



Here is the completed jig. The radius between the main shield and the lip was formed with thickened epoxy.



View attachment sm SS 02 - spray shield jig.JPG



And here is the first layup - with a mix of materials and polyester resin. I covered the jig with cellophane packing tape to prevent sticking. I also added brown pigment to the topcoat of resin. This photo shows it already trimmed and ready for scuff sanding.



View attachment sm SS 03 - first run on jig.JPG



The thatch rails are laminated on the same jig.


View attachment sm SS 04 - Clamping thatch rail.JPG



They spring back a few inches when they come off the jig - but easily conform to the spray shield curve.


View attachment sm SS 05 - Clamping closeup.JPG



One is cleaned up; the other just came off the jig.


View attachment sm SS 08.JPG



The new shield has its first coat of paint - and is not yet fastened to the deck.


View attachment sm SS 07 - Spray shield on foredeck.JPG



I still need to cut to length and glue on spacer blocks. The thatch rails will be bolted through the shield with brass machine screws.


View attachment sm SS 09.JPG



All the best,


SJS







 
All~


Episode 5 - Cleats & Crossbar


The existing stern cleat needed a backer board - and a cleat was needed on the foredeck.


The backer is half-inch AC plywood sealed with epoxy.


View attachment sm Cleats 02 - Foredeck cleat and backer.JPG



The original bolts were under-sized. These 8-inch nylon cleats call for a 5/16" bolt (oval head machine screw). I use nylon-insert lock nuts with fender washers. And - because 3M 5200 will not stick to nylon - I bedded these cleats in silicone.


View attachment sm Cleats 03 - stern cleat backer etc.JPG



I had to double-check the location of the foredeck cleat with the owner. Location A it is.....


View attachment sm Cleats 01 - forward cleat location - sm.JPG



This crossbar will serve as a backrest - and separate the gunner from his dog, I believe. The chocks will be set in silicone - rather than 3M 5200 - just in case their location needs to be fine-tuned down the road.


View attachment sm Crossbar 01 - chocks for crossbar.JPG



Here it is "deployed".


View attachment sm Crossbar 02.JPG



All the best,


SJS











 
All~


Episode 6 - Cockpit Hatch


Although the hatch itself was in fine shape - including the vinyl edging - the handle needed some attention.


View attachment sm Hatch 01.JPG



It wiggled just enough to worry me....


View attachment sm Hatch 02.JPG



The washers were a bit under-sized.


View attachment sm Hatch 03 best.JPG



So, I made a new handle. I'm hoping its sleek aerodynamics will improve fuel efficiency when this rig is being trailed on Long Island highways.....



I used 3M 5200 for bedding and s/s fender washers to spread the load.


View attachment sm Hatch 04.JPG



More practically, this handle has a larger mating surface so it will be less likely to develop a wobble in the future. The handle is treated lumber coated with epoxy.



View attachment sm Hatch 06.JPG



Uncharacteristically, I wore gloves to avoid my usual Black Hand Syndrome.....


View attachment sm Hatch 07.JPG



Two coats of Dull dead Grass.


View attachment sm Hatch 08.JPG



Ready to hunt!


View attachment sm Hatch 09.JPG



All the best,


SJS





 
Another fantastic job Steve.
A few comments- enlarging the cleat is a no-brainer- I favor using larger diameter lines as they are a lot easier to handle. Sand- we use regular beach sand, sifted, washed and baked on floorboards. If it?s too rough another coat of paint solves the problem. Lastly, I?d like to see a couple photos of the entire boat.

Best regards, Tom
 
Rich~


I put shelves in my Sneakbox. Here they are when I began the 2016 renovation (I made the shelves circa 1990). Large opening through knee allows for pickup stick or gun barrel.



View attachment sm 29 Shelves.JPG



Key is the lip to keep things (gloves, shells, binoculars, lantern, flags, bog stakes, etc) in + the scuppers so water could get out IF it got in (never really did). Here it is later in rehab process.


View attachment sm Hull 3.jpg



I attached mine to 2 quarter knees I installed to stiffen the deck. On a South Bay, I would hang a shelf from the underside of the decks:


View attachment sm Shelf dwg.jpg



Hope this helps!


SJS

 
Tom~


Yes, sand from the shores of the Atlantic is perfect! I bought that bag of sand from Aboff's Paint & Wallpaper in Patchogue circa 1986.


There'll be plenty of "whole boat" photos in future posts. As always, expect some glamour portraits of the finished product. I may even take her out for sea trials....


All the best,


SJS

 
Not a fan of the non skid sand. I'm often on my knees and worried about the abrasion. Never had a problem as yet. Like the idea of the deck attachments, going to patch my screw holes and use Steves buttons. The bow floor section I made separate, gas tank and battery are strapped to deck and have two hand holds cut out and lift up and out. Easy for a old guy like me.
Really like Steves posts, he thinks about making it better and easy.
 
Good morning, Bill & All~


Episode 7 - This vessel is done - except for a second coat of paint on her flapboards.


This "episode" shows the floorboards installed.


Turnbuttons fastened with #10 S/S FH. Nylon and s/s washers beneath it allow for needed height (thickness) and low friction.


View attachment sm FB 20.JPG



A firm twist - whilst standing on the board to force it down - keeps each board in place.


View attachment sm FB 21.JPG



The "lip" down the middle supports both port and starboard floorboards.


View attachment sm FB 22.JPG



Here is the bailing hole - aft and dead center for a hand pump.


View attachment sm FB 24.JPG



Here are the "curbs" up forward. They keep stowed gear from working its way aft when under way.


View attachment sm FB 23.JPG



All the best,


SJS

 
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Good morning, All~


Episode 8 - Spray Shield


First step after the thatch rails came of the jig was to glue the spacer blocks (3/16" thick by 2 inches long) to them. I use Gorilla Glue.


View attachment sm 01 SS 21 Thatch rails in clamps.JPG



The rails were bedded in 3M 5200 and fastened with brass machine screws.


View attachment sm 02 Thatch rails fastened.JPG



The screws can do a bunch of harm untended. Bare hands, waterproof fabrics and dog's noses are at risk.


View attachment sm 03 TR 10.JPG





So, I grind each one flat. There is enough of the nut left to allow for future removal if needed.


View attachment sm 04.JPG



Because the shield as molded does not fit right tight to the deck at its lower corners, I needed a few extra screws to bed the flange nicely.


View attachment sm 05 SS 41.JPG





This shield is 12 inches tall and almost 4-feet wide at the base. Add some Salt Hay and she's ready to hunt!



View attachment sm 06 SS 30.JPG



All the best,


SJS

 
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I thoroughly enjoy seeing your projects posts Steve. Your approach is the perfect blend of pragmatic and artistry. Thanks.

Eric
 
I'm with Eric Steve. You do a great job techniquewise and make it look gorgeous (and easy) at the same time. You've done a great job with this boat. I've enjoyed watching this project of yours.
 
Eric & Dani~


Thanks for the kind words - glad you are enjoying this post.


This Episode is about a bit of "sprucing up" on the nice little Cox trailer that will carry the South Bay back to the Atlantic Tidewater (Long Island's South Shore in this case).


It appears from a quick search that Cox no longer makes boat trailers. The first boat trailer I recall growing up - and which I used to haul my Garvey each day in pursuit of hard clams on Great South Bay - was a Cox. It was in the days before galvanized trailers - a must on salt water in my opinion - had lots of nice features, including a bed that tilted with a rack and pinion gear.



This trailer is very well built with lots of nice features. The steel and galvanizing are both heavy.


View attachment sm Cox 01.JPG



The winch post is well-equipped with all the right rests and stops. There's even a nice 6-inch cleat (s/s or Marinium maybe...) on the tongue - handy when you are by yourself and might need to let go of the painter while attaching the cable for instance.


View attachment sm Cox 02.JPG



All the rollers are sound and spin freely.


View attachment sm Cox 03.JPG



Bearing Buddies are always welcome/necessary.


View attachment sm Cox 04.JPG



I appreciate the end-caps on the stern keel roller - to protect the bow first thing.


View attachment sm Cox 05.JPG


The only feature missing was any sort of jack stand.


So, I added a Fulton swivel jack. I replaced the stock 4-inch cadmium-plated bolts with 3-inch s/s. No need to have long bolts ripping waders et cetera. And, jacks have a way of needing to be relocated on the tongue - so rust-free hardware will be welcome when the time comes.


View attachment sm Swivel Jack 01.JPG


Another minor "spruce up" was cleaning up the rust on the coupler.


View attachment sm Coupler 1.JPG



And, I sprayed it with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing.


View attachment sm Coupler 2.JPG



Stay tuned,


SJS





 
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