Teleflex Steering Cable Discussion...Tod...

A

Andrew

Well-known member
Tod,

To answer your question... Last weekend I installed a 3" poly pipe from under the deck to the splashwell - directly to the transom top where the motor is hung. This pipe will hold the teleflex tube, electric (throttle/shift) and gas.

The motor is hanging from my garage joists, so I mocked up the teleflex cable and I installed the expensive Honda OEM parts to determine how far the tube will extend as the wheel is turned.

The teleflex cable goes through a biult-in aluminum tube where the motor meets the top of the transom -- comes out the other side and is then pinned to a linkage arm, which in turn is attached to the motor itself.

BUT... my motor well is only 24" wide. So, I determined that I need 31" minimum. First bonehead move.

I went to Home Dumpo and figured I'd have to cut another 3-4" hole and install a pipe with a cap in the port sponson...which would effectively add another 7" or so to the splashwell therfore accomodating the teleflex cable and Honda linkage (clear as mud?)

HOWEVER... the motor is configured such that the aluminum tube (which holds the teleflex cable) sits practically on TOP of the transom and it needs to be straight ... there is no bending these teleflex cables... needless to say, i have to abandon plan A. In other words, I cannot simply add another pipe on the port side of the sponson... because I would have to cut away part of the transom, blah...

So, plan B... I did some research today and came up with an alternate way of doing things... I am going to order a completely separate teleflex cable holder and mount it half in the 3" plastic pipe and half in the boat itself...the holder will be directly mounted to the splashwell. if that doesn't work... I'm throwing the motor in the river and I will turn the sucker into a sailboat.

Thanks and best, A.
 
Yeah Charlie... it needs to be totally water tight... they have a teleflex cable holder that is actually mounted IN the sponson, but there is no way that the apparatus can be waterproofed... I don't want to harm the integrity of the sponson.

Sometimes I wish I took up checkers ; ) Now that's a smiley Charlie...

A
 
Could we please get some pictures from Rhode Island dammit? I want to see what we're noodling over. I'm not smart enough to visualize what you're talking about.

Charlie
 
I see where you are at, that is tough. Were I to build the boat again I would make the splashwell run the width of the stern, that would fix your problem, would make it easy to mount a kicker and would change the profile for the better.
 
Andrew,

I went and looked at my boat(s) and saw what you mean. Couldn't you cut out a section of your sponson (or both sponsons if you wanted them to match cosmetically) to make room for the portion of the steering cable and arm that extends past the motor mount? Seems like it would just be a matter of cutting some out and patching the hole with some scrap marine ply.

Charlie
 
Andrew,

Here is the boat I am thinking of, but not a great picture of the splashwell.

It is a Dave Clark build, maybe he can post the splashwell pics? It is a similar boat, maybe you can get some ideas from it?

Looks like he notched the transom and opened up the splashwell width. Could you retrofit a similar setup? It might take some ply, epoxy and time, but you have the skills.

Charlie

[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]daveclark.jpg[/font]
image024.jpg
 
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Andrew...I almost ran into this with the Hellcat even though I really planned ahead to avoid it. I left plenty of room for movement of the arm, but the fitting for my 2" flex pipe didn't allow for a perfectly straight shot to the hole where the cable went in so when I tried to line it up it was off by maybe an 1/8" from being perfectly straight. As you said you can't bend it so I ended up unbolting the motor and sliding it over an inch to install the steering cable and moving it back. I know that will make it a little more of a pain when I have to replace it but it was better than most of the alternatives.

Hellcat_splashwell.jpg


Another option for you could be to use a hydraulic steering set up. Most are pretty pricey but I have seen a few that were around $600. It uses a more compact setup and you could probably get by with your setup as is.

Brad
 
Brad... good to hear from you... and thanks for the pic.

You cannot believe how difficult it is to find pics of these setups... I have to abandon the setup that you have shown.

Charlie, I'll post pics soon.

Thanks, A.
 
A,

Wow what a pain ! Beleive it or not i am at a lose for ideas . I will think about it more , if you need to fabricate something i can help you out , if i get a chance this weekend mind if i stop by and see what you got going on ? Give me a call if you need me . Good luck



Dave
 
Mr Sport...

I am coming down your way to pick up... what else... more trailer supplies (bolts/bushings)...

I'll buy you a coffee.

Re motor, I think I have a solution.
 
Brad, thank you for the pic... don't know a thing about hydraulic steering for a boat, I'll research it however..

Andrew
 
Andrew

Here is another shot. Granted this motor is likely significantly more horsepower and a larger boat than your installation. The footprint is smaller than a traditional teleflex rod and lever setup. The lock to lock travel is on the rod in the picture. There are flexible hoses instead of rigid cables. The hydraulic fluid is feed in thru a port in the steering wheel. There is no hydraulic pump or other connections. The setup virtually removes any torque feedback from the engine.
IMG_1110.jpg

 
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Awesome... had no idea there was such a thing...

Thanks... I ordered a "Transom clamp" for the Teleflex rigid, huge freakin' footprint arrangement. I'm glad that I have an alternative... Will investigate.

A.
 
Shoulda coulda woulda... this hydraulic thing would have been perfect... I'm invested too much in the stupid cable program... dammit ; )
 
First, Brad B, I took your advice and I'm going hydraulic.

I spent a huge sum on mechanical steering to learn that I can't do it... so, it was either buy hydraulic ($500) or jump off the roof of the garage. Hydraulic is cheaper because the garage isn't high enough.

Anyway, a question. I am starting to install the hydraulic steering thing and the friction got in the way, so I removed it from the motor. Does one need the friction when the motor is set up for a remote? (i.e. using a steering wheel instead of a tiller).

Thanks much.
 
Hi Charlie...

Console built. Last coat of paint (for now anyway) done yesterday.

Boat almost put back together. Looks like hydraulic steering will work, but I don't want to jinx it.

Spent at least 100 hours on this project - lots and lost of time moaning and cussin'.

Will have pics soon, I am really bad at pics.

Thanks, Andrew
 
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