to all TDB 14 Classic owners BOAT IS DONE I think.. 6/16

Phil Nowack

Well-known member
I have a couple quetions....

1) How well does you boat turn?

2) How much does the floor of your boat move or undulate when you are in chop?
 
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Due to the large flat expanse in the rear, the 14 will "side-slip" some in a high speed turn. As I recall, the original literature and the video they used to send out on inquiries (when the company was based in Maine) was very up front about that.

If I am riding with the motor wide open (side & bow blind panels up is the way to do it in heavy stuff) into a chop there will be some flex as the boat comes off a rise and slaps down, but nothing that has ever had me concerned. If it's really rockin' and rollin', I will definitely slow down and play the waves.
 
I had my vessel out on her maiden voyage today. To start with ... the floor ripples... ALOT... I need to reinforce the floor in the front of the cockpit. That may not be a big deal.. the floor on my BBII moved some too..

My transom is too high ... It cavitated terribly... With the 25 on there........ freaking rocket... I hit 28 mph... according to GPS.. and I was NOWHERE near opened up...
 
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HAHa no.. but will say that 28 is nowhere near top end... dont know if it is controllable at greater speed... but we will see!!!!
 
Biggest motor I have had on my 14 was a 20. Rated for a 15, and I have a Merc 15 2 stroke on it now. Fifteen is plenty with one man & a dog; 20 would be best if hunting 2 & a dog.

With a 25, I can guarantee you'll never be underpowered.
 
Dave.... you can come for a ride in it!!!!!

Quite honestly... the 25 is 1 1/2 years old.. .and I can' bear the thought of getting rid of it.. and can't afford to buy another motor ( the wife would kill me as well)

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Phil, my TDB 14 classic has two grooves cut out, starting in the bottom rear about 5 ft long by 5 inches wide and 3/4 quarters of an inch deep, this design, to the best of my knowledge, was to help with fast turns at high speeds , but a guy should start turning ahead of his desired turning spot. In small creeks, this early turning technique works well, and in open water it is not a problem. I have ran a 25 hp on my boat for 21 years, it seems to be a nice fit with all the different load applications throughout the season. Nice job on your boat it looks great.
Dave
 
When I had a TDB14 Classic it was easier to control when I added a tiller extension and was seated more in the middle.

I ran a 15 Mariner with bigger carbs and could get 28 via GPS in an empty boat.
 
I've had two over the years. First one had a 15hp motor and would only get on plane with tiller extension, motorcycle battery and gas tank as far forward as possible. My second one had an 18hp and got on plane quick. Both were a scary ride when turning on plane. Always felt like you were sliding on ice. I wouldn't make any quick turns. I agree with Gene In PA, about some type of runners on the bottom so when you turn you can control her better.
 
When I had a TDB14 Classic it was easier to control when I added a tiller extension and was seated more in the middle.

Agree on that... There's no way I'd run without a tiller extension and seated on the rear like your pics show. Tiller extension with a folding seat set just behind amidships or tiller extension standing in same location with the blind sides & front panel up and holding on to the blind rail for support. Is your 14 a repaired hull that was popped from a mold knockoff, or an original TDB (what year?) that has undergone repair (I saw your post on replacing the transom)?
 
Gotcha.

I'd imagine the solid configuration of the bottom does cause it to slide in the turns a bit more than usual. Also possible that the Transom/Motor mount you restored will cause it to balk at getting up on plane. I'll bet that if you experiment with different tilt settings on your 25 it will solve that issue.

I'm also wondering if the floor in the Maine TDB's had some construction differences that eliminated the amount of flex you speak of. My boat has a slight well that drops off in front of the dog shelf/ equipment well that is built into the bow in back of the front flotation. There is also flotation glassed into the sides underneath the shelves, and in the stern. Any pics of the interior?

At any rate, looks like you have restored yourself a nice duckboat. If you'd like pictures & measurements for the blind setup, including tracings of the panels, let me know.
I'd bet you could easily recreate the whole blind system with the proper Kle-Kamp fittings and some electrical conduit.
 
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Phil, does your boat have any kind of sub floor in it or is it just the outer hull and deck/cockpit joined together? My recollection of the TDB's I've seen is that the have a floor in them that is filled with floatation between the outer hull and the floor. Might be part of why you are seeing so much flex...
 
Phil, I had the same dilemma, w/good speed- bad steering. Pack it full of gear and dog and buddy and as The other Gene says"totally diff animal" wouldn"t get out of it"s own way. I put as much weight forward as possible like Gas, battery, anchors, sash weights,etc. The floor is unnerving at times but i believe as mlbob said, if it's bouncing to much it's to rough for speed your going. Like all boats where one thrives another fails, and vis versa. It's all give and take with boats as I'm sure you know.
Not sure about how your trailer is set up, but I had roller bunks on mine and they left marks in the hull from trailering to and fro. After first season of gunning I switched to carpeted bunks. I seen you did alot of glass work on the bottom in photos, didn't want your work get screwed up.
Make sure you have your kill switch to motor attached to wrist. If you motor around standing in corner you'll get wet standing there at full speed with a little chop and weight in front. I sit on a stool to get to area I'm going to then use it for sitting on while hunting. Keeps ya out of wind and harder to fall out to. I also put a cleat on inside top of cockpit to hold on to and attach longline to while setting. It's one less thing to hold onto and do while running motor when hunting alone.

Dewayne, Not sure if there is space between inside out of the hull. Mine is older and has the (cedar?)battens in center area. I had tried to figure out how to put interior ribs for support with new glassed floor over but didn't seem like the work to do it would worth the benefits. At some point TDB changed the bottom profile of the hull. Mine is smooth from side to side, My buddies has the offset in bottom, maybe then there was floation in bottom and might be stiffer. I don't know. With Phil's being a clone who knows.

Gene R.
 
The floor has a piece of something in it.. .1/2 something that is on the back 2/3 of the cockpit. Where the floor flexes and bounces is where there is ony the 1/8" of fiberglass chop.


As far as going to fast for the conditions.. .15-20 mph...over 3" ripples/chop.... there is no way that I shouldn't be able open it up...

I have carpeted bunks...

There front had the a 24 series battery and 10-20# of plywood up front... I have the gas tank in back.. and if I can... I want to leave it there, as I do not want to sacrifice storage space.. time will tell if that is something that will work or not....

This is what the bottom looks like...
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Well I am essentially done... I think.. I have cut the transom down, but have yet to try it on the water with it at the shorter height. The inside is done... unless I cold form some plywood to the forward floor to strengthen it. I still need to paint and install the battery box door... and possibly paint.. or not.. the rest of the inside... Is there any merit to painting the entire cockpit?


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and possibly paint.. or not.. the rest of the inside... Is there any merit to painting the entire cockpit?

A nice shade of pink with lovely Lavender flowers ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, would help sooth your nerves when the jet skiers keep buzzing your decoys.
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