Transom pads?

C

Chris Glennon

Member
Well, last January 2 I bought a new Brant II-X two man sculling boat from Lou Tisch. I first cast eyes on one of these boats back in 1995 or ’96 and just waited far too long to buy one. But, having waited so long to get one, I can’t bring myself to treat it carelessly. Therefore, it bothers me mightily to scratch up the transom every time I put my four horse Evinrude back on the transom. Now, Lou tells me it’s a duck boat and he’s right. Duck boats, and duck guns for that matter, suffer more bumps and scrapes than a lot of other hunting equipment due to the environment that they are used in. There’s only so much I can do to mitigate that. However, the scraping of the gel coat on the transom just seems self-inflicted and is far and away the most abuse that the boat has had to endure so far.

So, my question to this group of vast experience is this: Do any of you guys or gals use a transom pad or plate to protect the gel coat from constant scratching? If so, what do you recommend? Did you epoxy of screw/bolt the transom protection on?

I’ve found the CR (Custom Rubber), Tempo and Mueller rubber transom pads on the internet. The CR and Tempo seem to get good reviews. The Mueller pad not so much. I’m intrigued by the idea of an aluminum plate set that apparently you epoxy to both sides of the transom and I suppose then glue a rubber pad to. This idea makes sense to me because it seems that it would be easier and less stressful to scrape a worn rubber pad off of the aluminum plate than the fiberglass transom.

I welcome any and all input and appreciate you taking the time to share it.

Thank heaven for ducks,

Chris
 
Chris

Visit your local rubber and gasket company. In the past I've gone to mine and bought bulk black rubber gasket material, about 3/16" thick. Cut it to size and drape it over the transom. It will protect the gelcoat and fiberglass. Cheap, simple, and effective. A good combination in my book. If you take care in cutting it you can make it look professional.
 
You can also use the rubber from some old non-steel belted tires. Cut to the shape and size needed.
 
Chris,I use diamond plate aluminum salvaged from an old pickup truck mud flap. Cut to size with a jig saw and fasten with stainless screws.
 
Consider taking the alternative approach, consider using Plasti-dip and coat the entire motor.

T
 
Consider taking the alternative approach, consider using Plasti-dip and coat the entire motor.

T I might use that on all of our dishes. I just bought a pressure washer!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for all the great ideas guys.

Tod, I would never have thought of Plasti-dip. I wonder if it will hold up to being compressed by the motor clamp screws? I suspect it would be fine on the part of the motor clamp that rests on the back side of the transom.

If anyone else has an idea to share please chip in!

Thanks.

Chris
 
Eric,

I like the rubber gasket idea from a local gasket company. However, my concern is that I'll end up dropping or knocking the gasket into the drink. The outboard will be taken off and put back on the transom at least twice every day that I hunt out of the sculler. I can almost guarantee that the rubber gasket will come off one day while I'm trying to put the motor back on while in a seated position in the boat. If I glue or epoxy the rubber to the transom I wonder how I'd remove it when the original gets worn and shredded?

Why would the rubber get shredded you might ask?!! That would be because I've already lost one nice Evinrude 4 hp off the transom of this boat in thiryt feet of water!!!! Besides the safety rope that I now keep tied to the motor and boat, I tend to crank the clamp screws a wee bit tighter than I used to.

Maybe I'm overthinking this. On the other hand, I'm trying to make sure I've thought ahead a little bit rather than hurrying to implement a solution.

Chris
 
Eric,

I like the rubber gasket idea from a local gasket company. However, my concern is that I'll end up dropping or knocking the gasket into the drink. The outboard will be taken off and put back on the transom at least twice every day that I hunt out of the sculler. I can almost guarantee that the rubber gasket will come off one day while I'm trying to put the motor back on while in a seated position in the boat. If I glue or epoxy the rubber to the transom I wonder how I'd remove it when the original gets worn and shredded?

Why would the rubber get shredded you might ask?!! That would be because I've already lost one nice Evinrude 4 hp off the transom of this boat in thiryt feet of water!!!! Besides the safety rope that I now keep tied to the motor and boat, I tend to crank the clamp screws a wee bit tighter than I used to.

Maybe I'm overthinking this. On the other hand, I'm trying to make sure I've thought ahead a little bit rather than hurrying to implement a solution.

Chris
Click to expand...


Chris,

If you want a "fix" that willlast forever, just buy some stainless steel and 5200 it on. Going to a machine shop that has a break that can bend 1/4" or 3/16" stainless could do a super job. put a piece of stainless about 4 x 12" on the inside to catch the clamps and a 12 x 12 bent into an L shape on the outside that comes up and over the top of the transom adn almost touches the inside plate.

You can look at stainless at McMaster Carr (and order it if so inclined) - you want a 300 series and the most likely stuff (and best) would be 304 (also 316). Would cost some, but you want it fixed. If you worry about the motor coming off, see if they can put a break at the top of the inside plate too that will serve as a lip to contain the motor.

T

transom.jpg

 
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