Going to be purchasing a set of plans from devlin, haven't been able to decide between the broadbill and bluebill. I already have an 18' lund for big water, I'd like to just build a small craft for solo hunts, low profile. I am not really leaning one way or the other. Any suggestions?
Trying to decide between broadbill/bluebill
- Thread starter Paul W
- Start date
David Allen
Active member
If it were me I would go bluebill. It is a little wider, a little longer, and has a planing hull.
That said I have tried to back away from any hull that requires regular maintenance. I like my reduced care fiberglass, plastic and aluminum.
That said I have tried to back away from any hull that requires regular maintenance. I like my reduced care fiberglass, plastic and aluminum.
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Having a 20-ft Lund for large water, a 14-ft decked over V-hull for medium and 2nd partner hunts, I went small. I went with an aluminum (Yes Dave - ALUMINUM) boat based loosely on the Broadbill. I like it, it is a planing hull and easy to drag around when the tides are falling. With the old Suzuki 16 hp 2-stroke she books along at 25 mph (gps) w/ me the 115# pup and a bag of decoys. Only time she's felt small was this Jan. playing ice breaker in the CT River in the dark. Yes, she has foam in her, in the Devlin 3-pt level float locations.
View attachment R2.jpg
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Which ever you get enjoy!
Scott
View attachment R2.jpg
View attachment grassedup.jpg
Which ever you get enjoy!
Scott
Bill Clark
Well-known member
Scott;
Who made your aluminum sneak boat?
By the way i hear things are heating up on the Conn. gun confiscation plan, do you have any news from ground zero?
Bill.
Who made your aluminum sneak boat?
By the way i hear things are heating up on the Conn. gun confiscation plan, do you have any news from ground zero?
Bill.
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Bill,
John Kuhn in NJ built her. He's a welder (SS custom commercial kitchens) by trade and he did a great job. If you search his name you'll find a number of his construction pictures of sneak boxes and a larger duck boat. He was nice to work with and made a number of tweaks and modifications per my request. Here's the post that caught me.
With respect to CT, I've seen a letter supposedly ready to send out from the state that's says registration is over and if you have an unregistered assault rifle get rid of it, move it out of state, sell it out of state or turn it in. It is now a felony to possess an unregistered assault weapon or mag capable of holding more than 10 rounds. But that letter has not been sent out yet and there is talk of an amnesty period due to the estimated high number of people who didn't register them. We'll see what happens, this is the second round of registering assault weapons in the state, the first round is now more than 10 - 15 years old. Historically this seems to be more about preventing more rifles from coming into the state than about reducing the existing numbers.
Scott
John Kuhn in NJ built her. He's a welder (SS custom commercial kitchens) by trade and he did a great job. If you search his name you'll find a number of his construction pictures of sneak boxes and a larger duck boat. He was nice to work with and made a number of tweaks and modifications per my request. Here's the post that caught me.
With respect to CT, I've seen a letter supposedly ready to send out from the state that's says registration is over and if you have an unregistered assault rifle get rid of it, move it out of state, sell it out of state or turn it in. It is now a felony to possess an unregistered assault weapon or mag capable of holding more than 10 rounds. But that letter has not been sent out yet and there is talk of an amnesty period due to the estimated high number of people who didn't register them. We'll see what happens, this is the second round of registering assault weapons in the state, the first round is now more than 10 - 15 years old. Historically this seems to be more about preventing more rifles from coming into the state than about reducing the existing numbers.
Scott
A stitch and glue wood boat takes some annual or every other year maintainance. If you use them you will breach the epoxy and glass with wear spots or scratches and that needs to be touched up so it doesn't absorb water and start rot. It isn't like a traditional planked boat, but it does need some maintainance. I've owned mine over 10 years and I touch it up every couple years, I use mine a lot in all seasons, though so more than just duck season. I rolled mine over after 5-6 years and patched some scrapes and generally spruced it up. I put a lot of wear into it in the first few years before I figgured out what leaves a mark and what doesn't. I hunt around a lot of rough rock, so I do more damage than if I hunted marshes more.
If you are a large guy, I can see why you would would make the decision. I think we have had at least 2 large guys build broadbills (one built 2) over the years, but they don't post anymore. I don't know if anyone here would know what they thought. Maybe post up with a title "Broadbill for a big guy?" - I'm serious.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Scott~
Sweet little craft!
Question: Looks like you are using "portable" nav lights. Are you happy with them? Do you use the clamp or suction cup type?
I'll be rehabbing my Sneakbox later this year and will probably break down and go "legal" - always just kept a big lantern handy. But, I do not have/want electric start or battery, so would just as soon not hard wire the nav lights.
Thanks very much,
SJS
Sweet little craft!
Question: Looks like you are using "portable" nav lights. Are you happy with them? Do you use the clamp or suction cup type?
I'll be rehabbing my Sneakbox later this year and will probably break down and go "legal" - always just kept a big lantern handy. But, I do not have/want electric start or battery, so would just as soon not hard wire the nav lights.
Thanks very much,
SJS
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Steve,
I have a long history of using battery operated running lights. They are really nice now they come in led, camo and small battery/body sized. I've contemplated upgrading but these LED lights are working well. Attachment wise the boat was made with mounting provisions that allow me to pin them in place for a very secure but quick attachment. (Did I say how much I liked working with John? He happily incorporated a bunch of these small & not so small tweaks).
View attachment frontlightfix.JPG
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The stern light not pictured is mounted to a longer aluminum round tube stk to get it above the outboard. The bottom 2" of the tube has been cold forged (by me with a hammer) into a square section that slides into the aft light mount - section of square tubing on port side of transom. It too uses a SS pull pin for security.
View attachment stern.JPG
Battery running lights are reliable (unless you forget them), and I like being able to store them off the boat.
Scott
I have a long history of using battery operated running lights. They are really nice now they come in led, camo and small battery/body sized. I've contemplated upgrading but these LED lights are working well. Attachment wise the boat was made with mounting provisions that allow me to pin them in place for a very secure but quick attachment. (Did I say how much I liked working with John? He happily incorporated a bunch of these small & not so small tweaks).
View attachment frontlightfix.JPG
View attachment lightUM.JPG
View attachment lightMT.JPG
The stern light not pictured is mounted to a longer aluminum round tube stk to get it above the outboard. The bottom 2" of the tube has been cold forged (by me with a hammer) into a square section that slides into the aft light mount - section of square tubing on port side of transom. It too uses a SS pull pin for security.
View attachment stern.JPG
Battery running lights are reliable (unless you forget them), and I like being able to store them off the boat.
Scott
Thanks for the response - I guess I knew you had to patch them up when they started to wear, but i didn't think it would be so often. I am torn on the decision because the whole point of this craft is for solo hunts, although taking a 2nd would be nice if I wanted to. The broadbill really doesn't leave any room for that, the bluebill does. The smaller broadbill would be easier to hide In the low pencil reeds, or whatever I decide to hunt, when I am by myself. Maybe I will build both and see what I like better....ha!
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Paul,
Two boats is easier, first is the Broadbill, second, slightly tougher is the BB3 or Snowgoose depending on water conditions. Snowgoose gets the nod for coastal waters needing a bit more seaworthiness while the BB3 hides better and I believe take less power. With your Lund you'd have it pretty much covered unless you want a layout or scull ;^)
Scott
Two boats is easier, first is the Broadbill, second, slightly tougher is the BB3 or Snowgoose depending on water conditions. Snowgoose gets the nod for coastal waters needing a bit more seaworthiness while the BB3 hides better and I believe take less power. With your Lund you'd have it pretty much covered unless you want a layout or scull ;^)
Scott
Scott That is a wonderful boat and the workmanship in the aluminum is fantastic. Does this gentleman build these boats for a business or just a hobby friend type deal. That looks great and clean.
Just looked through past posts and have met him in Tuckerton. Great work and boats indeed. This guy could make a great living building big aluminum boats.
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Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Scott~
Thanks very much! I was actually thinking along the same lines - some kind of custom mount to ensure a secure attachment.
A neat idea I have seen for the stern light is to attach a low one (~ 6 " tall) right to the top of the OB cowling.
All the best,
SJS
Thanks very much! I was actually thinking along the same lines - some kind of custom mount to ensure a secure attachment.
A neat idea I have seen for the stern light is to attach a low one (~ 6 " tall) right to the top of the OB cowling.
All the best,
SJS
I'm sure you know that it isn't a fully compliant setup if you or any part of the boat blocks the all around light. The USCG could give you some trouble, but I've never heard of someone with that setup having a problem (the beauty fo having a charging coil in the motor and no wiring is nice too). Just to show that I'm not a rules weenie I did come back to port on Saturday with a bushel of clams at dusk and in the dark without a functioning Starboard light, so there - I'm a law breaker too.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the response - I guess I knew you had to patch them up when they started to wear, but i didn't think it would be so often. [/QUOTE]
Maybe I'm going overboard, but they do need some care and I like my shit to look sharp
. It is a lifestyle thing, build a boat and take care of it. If you store inside it isn't as big a deal, but you want to keep it all sealed up nice. If the paint is scuffed and the epoxy shows but is watertight the epoxy will also break down from the sun if outside, so it isn't just water getting in.
Thanks for the response - I guess I knew you had to patch them up when they started to wear, but i didn't think it would be so often. [/QUOTE]
Maybe I'm going overboard, but they do need some care and I like my shit to look sharp
. It is a lifestyle thing, build a boat and take care of it. If you store inside it isn't as big a deal, but you want to keep it all sealed up nice. If the paint is scuffed and the epoxy shows but is watertight the epoxy will also break down from the sun if outside, so it isn't just water getting in.
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Tony,
In 2010 when he was making these and posting the builds here, the economy slow down found him with time on his hands. Only time I've been face to face was when I picked up the boat. Our dealings were nothing but excellent, but we didn't keep in touch other than thru posts here so I don't know if he's still turning any boats out. I too was impressed with his welding and even more with his work-arounds to prevent oil canning and to keep everything true. He also waited to attach the oarlocks until I arrived and got to sit in and find the correct locations for me, giving me a chance to see his tig work in person.
Scott
In 2010 when he was making these and posting the builds here, the economy slow down found him with time on his hands. Only time I've been face to face was when I picked up the boat. Our dealings were nothing but excellent, but we didn't keep in touch other than thru posts here so I don't know if he's still turning any boats out. I too was impressed with his welding and even more with his work-arounds to prevent oil canning and to keep everything true. He also waited to attach the oarlocks until I arrived and got to sit in and find the correct locations for me, giving me a chance to see his tig work in person.
Scott
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Tod~
The more I read on this topic, the more confusion I find. Being an ex-government type, I like to go right to the language in the regs (and not rely on the synopses found in boating catalogs and NGO sites and the like).
re stern light: As I read the USGS regs, in addition to the port and starboard side lights (for a power vessel < 12 m) one needs: Part C, Rule 21, (c) "Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135 degrees and so fixed as to show the light 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel. [Fortunately, they have a clear diagram right in the regs.]
Alternatively, one can use an "all-around" (360 degrees) white light - which is really intended as a mooring light.
My thinking is that a light on top of the OB satisfies the latter requirement even if I am standing at the helm - because I am ahead of the requisite 135 degree circle. In fact, most stern lights I see mounted on poles on the starboard quarter - on all kinds of boats, not just duckboats - are frequently eclipsed by tall engines (think Mercs) as well as windshields, spray dodgers, etc. The location atop the OB prevents such obstruction and certainly satisfies the "as nearly as practicable at the stern" requirement.
Does this square with your understanding ?
All the best,
SJS
The more I read on this topic, the more confusion I find. Being an ex-government type, I like to go right to the language in the regs (and not rely on the synopses found in boating catalogs and NGO sites and the like).
re stern light: As I read the USGS regs, in addition to the port and starboard side lights (for a power vessel < 12 m) one needs: Part C, Rule 21, (c) "Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135 degrees and so fixed as to show the light 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel. [Fortunately, they have a clear diagram right in the regs.]
Alternatively, one can use an "all-around" (360 degrees) white light - which is really intended as a mooring light.
My thinking is that a light on top of the OB satisfies the latter requirement even if I am standing at the helm - because I am ahead of the requisite 135 degree circle. In fact, most stern lights I see mounted on poles on the starboard quarter - on all kinds of boats, not just duckboats - are frequently eclipsed by tall engines (think Mercs) as well as windshields, spray dodgers, etc. The location atop the OB prevents such obstruction and certainly satisfies the "as nearly as practicable at the stern" requirement.
Does this square with your understanding ?
All the best,
SJS
My understanding was that the white stern light needed to be coupled with a white light forward light (and high enough not to be blocked) - this would be equiv. to the all around light that most of us use on small boats and visible 360 degrees. I have not read the regs in a looooong time (since building my boat) and probably a lot of what I think I know has been ingrained from the boating catalogs like West Marine as you suggest. Do you have a link to the pic from the USCG, I'd like to see that.
We have had some long discussions on this topic here with USCG input, but I think that was before this new forum and those discussions are lost.
T
I thought you needed:
1) b, a and c or 2) b and e
I'd like to be wrong, that would make everything easier.
(a) "Masthead light" means a white light placed over the fore and aft centerline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel, except that on a vessel of less than 12 meters in length the masthead light shall be placed as nearly as practicable to the fore and aft centerline of the vessel. [Inld]
(b) "Sidelights" means a green light on the starboard side and a red light on the port side each showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 112.5 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on its respective side. In a vessel of less than 20 meters in length the sidelights may be combined in one lantern carried on the fore and aft centerline of the vessel, except that on a vessel of less than 12 meters in length the sidelights when combined in one lantern shall be placed as nearly as practicable to the fore and aft centerline of the vessel. [Inld]
(c) "Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135 degrees and so fixed as to show the light 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.
(d) "Towing light" means a yellow light having the same characteristics as the "sternlight" defined in paragraph (c) of this Rule.
(e) "All-round light" means a light showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 360 degrees.
(f) "Flashing light" means a light flashing at regular intervals at a frequency of 120 flashes or more per minute.
(g) "Special flashing light" means a yellow light flashing at regular intervals at a frequency of 50 to 70 flashes per minute, placed as far forward and as nearly as practicable on the fore and aft centerline of the tow and showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of not less than 180 degrees nor more than 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to abeam and no more than 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel. [Inld]
1) b, a and c or 2) b and e
I'd like to be wrong, that would make everything easier.
(a) "Masthead light" means a white light placed over the fore and aft centerline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel, except that on a vessel of less than 12 meters in length the masthead light shall be placed as nearly as practicable to the fore and aft centerline of the vessel. [Inld]
(b) "Sidelights" means a green light on the starboard side and a red light on the port side each showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 112.5 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on its respective side. In a vessel of less than 20 meters in length the sidelights may be combined in one lantern carried on the fore and aft centerline of the vessel, except that on a vessel of less than 12 meters in length the sidelights when combined in one lantern shall be placed as nearly as practicable to the fore and aft centerline of the vessel. [Inld]
(c) "Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135 degrees and so fixed as to show the light 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.
(d) "Towing light" means a yellow light having the same characteristics as the "sternlight" defined in paragraph (c) of this Rule.
(e) "All-round light" means a light showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 360 degrees.
(f) "Flashing light" means a light flashing at regular intervals at a frequency of 120 flashes or more per minute.
(g) "Special flashing light" means a yellow light flashing at regular intervals at a frequency of 50 to 70 flashes per minute, placed as far forward and as nearly as practicable on the fore and aft centerline of the tow and showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of not less than 180 degrees nor more than 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to abeam and no more than 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel. [Inld]