What else can you make decoys from????

Kevin Puls

Well-known member
I have seen some really fun and inexpensive ideas for making decoys from interesting items here on the site.

So far I have seen lobster bouys, great stuff foam and canvas, refrigerator foam, plywood yboards, plywood sleds, cork, wood, wire and canvas, etc.

I am planning to start doing some carving, but do want to make a functional brant gunning rig by next winter. Time to work on stuff is tough for me, so I am thinking of trying something simple. I Wont be able to carve anything in the way of numbers by then.

I may get half a dozen e Allen's but would love to start making a rig of different species that are "mine"

What do you guys think? What other decoy materials and ideas are there for my Brant rig to be?
 
Kevin~

Elsewhere on this site I weighed in re Brant Decoys as well as my first "foamers" (see February Bench). If I were undertaking to make a sizeable rig of anything, I would very likely use foam. I'd still carve the heads out of wood (white pine, cedar, basswood), use a 1/4" AC plywood bottom board, plastic tail insert and coat with epoxy and sawdust.

This Brant is refrigerator cork (aka brown or black cork); I like it but it's very heavy. The Oldsquaw is foam.

View attachment Sanford Brant - Cork Swimmer - vs.jpg View attachment Foamer Oldsquaw Drake - vs.jpg

Best of luck whatever materials & methods you decide - and also best of luck finding the time.

SJS
 
Kevin~

I use the 2" styrofoam insulation boards from Home Depot. I glue two pieces together - and glue the bottom board on at the same time.

View attachment Foamer Woodie - parts - vs.jpg

I've tried different glues for laminating foam and bottom board and inserting tail. Epoxy works fine but is probably needlessly expensive for this step. I will try Titebond II next time. One challenge is keeping the pieces from sliding around (out of register) until the glue sets. Best to drive (you can actually just push them in with your fingers) some 8 penny nails through scrap parts of foam while glue cures, then pull them before sawing out the body shape.

All the best,

SJS
 
I just finished burlapping my first 2 foamers last night Getting the burlap on right was much easier than I had anticipated. I discovered that you can actual retain some detail. We'll see how they turn out. I checked them this morning and noted that the adhesive had dried up leaving the burlap exposed all around the duck. I will coat the whole decoy again once the first coat is dry. I made a foam head for one of them. I don't think that's going to turn out well. I'll be carving wooden heads in the future.

I haven't decided how to attach a wooden head and a keel yet. Using a bottom board seems like a good solution.

I'll try to get some pictures posted up here this evening.

thanks for all the information.
 
I can't find my picture of it, but a guy had made a flattie black duck I think it was, with old fishing net stapled to the body. The idea was to fluff it up with grass or seaweed when you deployed them. That would work for brant I bet.

Another unique idea was a wire and wood frame, that folded to fit nice in your pocket, that a dead bird could be posed and floated in.

Anything that will float can be made into a decoy. Check that - I've seen cast iron ones too.

For land based decoys all kinds of stuff has been used to fool birds- trash bags, car tires, mud, crusty snow up on edge, anything you can think of. Makes me wonder why we need such fancy stuff nowadays?

Mike
 
Anything that will float can be made into a decoy. Check that - I've seen cast iron ones too.

Back when I had a TV, I remember Jesse James' show and that other show with the screwballs building bikes and how they fashioned custom gas tanks...I got the dream to build a decoy of Aluminum, hammered to shape and TIG welded together...went so far as to dream of making it a canvasback and nick naming it "Can-Can" and painting "Michigan 10cent Deposit" on the bottom. That's been years and I'm no further to starting it than when I dreamed it, so I'll throw it out there in hopes someone will hijack my dream and post a picture of it here when complete.

Chuck
 
I believe John Lawrence makes them out of 2X8's or 2X10 dimensional lumber. Very nice one's at that. (I think this is the correct John). Saw pic's of the hen can he made and it was/is stunning.

I've seen, and shot over milk jugs painted like decoys (them were some UGLY decoys let me tell you). Shot over old bleach bottles as well.

Mark W
 
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heres another variant of the foamer, but for these I used styrofoam coolers that we get shipments in at work, the walls are about 2" thick, so I glue them together and shape with a hot wire, rasp, sand paper.

Burlapped, sealed, then flocked. Oh, and the bills were weak, so i chopped em off and redid them with bondo.




 
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Interesting stuff. I plan to start making some decoys and want to eventually get into wood. But want to start out cost and effort effective for making some gunning stools.
 
Anything that will float can be made into a decoy. Check that - I've seen cast iron ones too.

Back when I had a TV, I remember Jesse James' show and that other show with the screwballs building bikes and how they fashioned custom gas tanks...I got the dream to build a decoy of Aluminum, hammered to shape and TIG welded together...went so far as to dream of making it a canvasback and nick naming it "Can-Can" and painting "Michigan 10cent Deposit" on the bottom. That's been years and I'm no further to starting it than when I dreamed it, so I'll throw it out there in hopes someone will hijack my dream and post a picture of it here when complete.

Chuck
What an awesome idea!
 
Cost effective and effort effective are relative. Make sure you understand all the costs (glue, bottom boards, keels, paint, eyes, etc), and the long term durability of whatever you make......... and understand the effort quotient. I made a small rig of brown cork bobtail diver decoys this summer. Look good, ride well, and are very effective. BUT, the time I spent in filling and getting the brown cork sealed was more than I would have spent if I carved them from cedar. The cost of oils and eyes was the same as a cedar decoy, and I used a lot more glue and sealer than I would have to with cedar decoys. When and if I retire them in five years, and sell them, they probably won't bring half what the same decoy, made with cedar would bring. So my time, and up front cost are about the same, but resale is a lot less. so why cork? the biggest reason is, if a buddy rakes them in shot as the bluebills go through, they float just fine, I take them home, fill the holes, touch up the paint, and life goes on.

The biggy most of us focus on is the cost of the materials for the bodies and heads. We often forget other factors such as glues, eyes, special other items like burlap, mastic, sealers, primers, etc. The factor easiest to forget is the decoy's value in five or ten years after we make it........... Three other factors are your needs, finances, and ability to scrounge. If you need four dozen magnum decoys by this fall, you are trying to do it on a thin budget, and you are a great scrounger, procurring materials for free or at salvage prices, foamers are probably the answer. If you want to build a rig that you gun for years, you don't need to turn out lots of decoys in a short time, and want a rig which appreciates in value over the years, then maybe you need to look at other options.

I know of a guy who gets his body foam pieces from a contractor friend, so he pays nothing for it. If I buy foam board at the local Menard's, it costs much more per decoy. But when we are both done, they are still foam decoys. They can be artistically done, and they can float well, but if you ever want to sell them, or put them on the shelf, they are, well, foam.

I have used brown cork, western cedar, and northern white cedar with white pine and basswood heads, I have also molded decoys with Decoys unlimited molds and styro beads. A good paint job takes time and materials, whether on foam, cork or wood. Glass eyes are pricey, even if put them in decoys where the foam was obtained for free. I personally wouldn't "eye" basic foam decoys, but that is just me...........

In my opinion, wood, if properly chosen for the use by specie, is probably the most durable, and the most cost effective in terms of value over the lifesapn. When you retire well made and crafted wooden decoys, they are very saleable, and if you become very good at shaping bodies and heads, they are not that much slower to make than cork, or even foam decoys. If you cost it out considering durability and future value potential, hollow wooden decoys, with glass eyes, well crafted and painted in oils, may be cheaper than foamers made with free foam.

This is especially true if you can find local sawmills that offer good white pine, basswood, and cedar in desired sizes, that you can buy direct from the mill. I had good results from Western Cedar when I could get it cheaply from Menards and other dealers, but it has gone up in price to the point I can actually get midwestern cedar cheaper, and in the dimensions I want.

I am not being disrepectful of anyone who loves their cork or foam decoys. I've seen a bunch I admire greatly, and they ride the water great. Plastic foam decoys are a great way for persons to start carving their own decoys without needing specialized tools. They are a great way to learn to shape and paint decoys, even how to configure them to ride well. I'm just saying that hollow wooden decoys are something special when in use, and valued by collectors and family members when retired........... Wooden birds also bring out the best in me, encouraging me to do a little better paint job, and refining the shape, detailing, and pose more, anticipating the final judge of them to be humans, 10 or more years down the road, not ducks in front of me now........

But that is just me, and I'm sure I'll have many disputing it.
 
That a very good point about the extras. I cannot tell you how many times I got I to a project and got nicked and dimed to death. Te most recent was my boat blind. Started with some PVC and cordura, for 130$. Thought I was doing well. Then the extras started coming,
 
Uncle Mike has made a very good point about the amount of time needed to make a cork decoy presentable after its all shaped. As a result, I mainly make cedar decoys now-a-days. And, in my opinion, its easier to fix a cedar deek that has been raked with shot than a cork one. With cedar, you dig the shot out, trowel in a little Epoxy Sculpt, or bondo, or paintable silicone sealer, or sawdust mixed with Titebond 2 or 3 and sand it and paint it. With cork, (meaning black cork) you fill the damage with sawdust and glue and then seal and then paint with at least 2 coats.

Just something to think about.

John
 
Does anyone make plain foam bodies similar to Herters 81 decoys now? I would think someone is doing that now to fill the nitch.
 
for years there was a company located between Muscatine, Iowa and Burlington, Iowa that made Otter solid styrofoam decoys.

The owner even sold unpainted decoys for a reasonable price.

I owned several dozen cans and bluebills and loved them. Not as good as Herters, but a reasonably priced alternative that worked almost as well. For a keel weight, they had a hole most of the way through the decoy that you filled with sand, then plugged with a plastic plug, set into the decoy with silicone. alternatively, we used sakrete, getting a bit more consistent weight, and didn't ahve to worry about the plug.

I believe the company is long out of business, as I no longer see their decoys advertised, but if you could find them used, they might be cheaper than used Herter's, since a lot of hunters never saw or used them. their biggest drawback was that they came with styrofoam heads, which could break/were less durable than the hard plastic heads from herter's. but carving some replacements is no big deal if yu get them cheap...........

Mike
 
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