Woodworker question - Pentacryl alternatives

Scott O.

Scott O.

Well-known member
I have recently come into a very large supply of spalted maple burl in all shapes, sizes and quantities. Included in there are a few roundish 2" thick slabs about 24"-30" in diameter. The stuff was airdrying for the past year in log form, but we just decided to cut these slabs with a chain saw to see if there were any small tabletops lurking in that wood.

I am storing the stuff in the garage in the (currently) cold and humid Michigan weather but I am concerned about checking or warpage or some other distortion happening. It looks like I could use Pentacryl to help avoid the problem but it seems like I read here a few years ago that there were less expensive alternatives that would perform the same function...specifically automotive anti-freeze.

Before I screw up any of these really cool pieces of wood, does anyone have any suggestions?

For you call turners (Dave) and knife makers, let me know if you would like some of this wood to play with and I can let you know what I have...or anyone that might be interested in some very uniquely grained wood for a project
 
Les, I am sure I can find a piece that small once we start sorting thru it and cutting some of the bigger pieces. I think I have some smaller pieces here at home too. Let me look around this week and get back to you.
 
I know alot of the expensive Burls - and inlay wood I see are completley wax dipped. This keeps them stable/ workable for turners/carvers until they are ready to use and finish them.
 
I've read that about waxes and a lot of other sealer-type solutions.

I just finished reading about other methods of speeding up the release of the free water in the wood, one of which is freezing the wood. Apparently that tends to rupture the cell membranes of the wood and releases the contained water. This wood has been pretty well frozen solid thru the whole month of December so if it works, who knows? I am a little skeptical as I wonder why, if it were true, wouldn't the same thing happen to every other tree in the world exposed to the same cold weather.

I was thinking about bringing it inside but its so dry during the winter that I think it may damage the wood by drying it out too quickly. I did do a little sanding on one of the slabs today and really like the grain and figure of the surface. The only problem is that its a little like sanding a piece of rock...pretty slow going.

I'll post some pictures as I make a little more progress
 
Scott, drying "in the round" is tough. I know that cutting in the winter gives you dryer wood since the moisture drains when the leaves aren't sucking it up. Winter wood splits easier too.I think to fracture capilaries in the wood by freezing....it would have to be a damn bit colder than what we have had for the last month. I am thinking well below zero. Keep it up off of dirt, stack on edge and loose so air can get around it and at least paint the ends to minimize checking.
 
Leslie,

Its been so damn cold and crappy around here, we haven't done squat with the wood. Remind me again in a couple months and I am sure we can find something that will suit you.
 
Scott, drying "in the round" is tough. I know that cutting in the winter gives you dryer wood since the moisture drains when the leaves aren't sucking it up. Winter wood splits easier too.I think to fracture capilaries in the wood by freezing....it would have to be a damn bit colder than what we have had for the last month. I am thinking well below zero. Keep it up off of dirt, stack on edge and loose so air can get around it and at least paint the ends to minimize checking.
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Lee,

I should have been asking you this is the first place...these are slabs, crosscut right thru the log about 2-3" thick...like cutting summer sausage. When you say stack on edge, are you saying upright, with the flat crossection vertical? Likewise, would that make the flat crossection the "end" that needs to be painted?

Right now I have them horizontal with spacers in between to allow airflow. They are in the garage so drying is affected by however cold or humid it gets on any given day. I was thinking about leaving them there with a fan on to at least increase the airflow over the surface to maybe promote a little faster drying. My E Bay moisture checker says they are at around 20% right now...down from 22% a month ago.
 
Ohhhhhh...I forgot you sliced them.Are they cupping? You have mainly end grain in the wood which probably would make them dry too quickly. Quick drying creates uneven stresses that makes the grain structure fight against itself and split "radially". The way you are doing it is probably as good as any. I'd still paint the flats to slow the cure.
 
No ...no cupping on the one I have outside. My buddy brought a couple of his into his house, despite my prediction of splitting and sure enough, thats what happened. Since that wood is crap for tables now, I am going to ask for one or two of his slabs to cut into smaller pieces and see what I can make of them.

When it warms up a little, I may just poly the one I have out there, let it dry and see if it stays together.

I'll post some pics
 
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