2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

H

HenryHawthorne

Member
I greatly appreciate all the advice and guidance in my information-seeking thread:
New Build Thread

I've decided on a Devlin Snow Goose build, and will do my best to document it here. Lots of great information and pictures offered in the thread above - I may link specific posts here when they are pertinent.

I've ordered and am awaiting paper plans, and will then start gathering plywood and other materials - so it will be a while before the actual build starts. But Devlin was kind enough to send me a pdf version, as well, so I can start work on a model. I want to get a better handle on scale so I can noodle on a few ideas/mods, and this will also give me some insight into process. I'm building the model at 1/8 scale.

And, so it begins...

IMG_20250124_161104.jpg

I'm expecting plenty of stops and starts on this project, but with any luck will have a boat ready for water in the Fall. We'll see.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
I greatly appreciate all the advice and guidance in my information-seeking thread:
New Build Thread

I've decided on a Devlin Snow Goose build, and will do my best to document it here. Lots of great information and pictures offered in the thread above - I may link specific posts here when they are pertinent.

I've ordered and am awaiting paper plans, and will then start gathering plywood and other materials - so it will be a while before the actual build starts. But Devlin was kind enough to send me a pdf version, as well, so I can start work on a model. I want to get a better handle on scale so I can noodle on a few ideas/mods, and this will also give me some insight into process. I'm building the model at 1/8 scale.

And, so it begins...

View attachment 63792

I'm expecting plenty of stops and starts on this project, but with any luck will have a boat ready for water in the Fall. We'll see.
Click to expand...

I felt like the plans left the transom angle less than standard (more vertical, I do not remember the research or the numbers). What I did, and what I'd suggest, is to loft and cut so that the panels retain a couple inches of excess length at the rear and then mess some with the transom angle. If you loft the marks on the panels, it is an easy operation to tilt the transom back until you get the angle you desire and keep everything square. That will also require the transom to be slightly taller, so don't trim to final size until after you see where it meets the sheer. Trim the sides and bottom to the new transom line. On the panels above there needs to be a little more meat on the hull bottom piece, the side is fine, if that makes sense.
 
tod osier said:
I felt like the plans left the transom angle less than standard (more vertical, I do not remember the research or the numbers). What I did, and what I'd suggest, is to loft and cut so that the panels retain a couple inches of excess length at the rear and then mess some with the transom angle. If you loft the marks on the panels, it is an easy operation to tilt the transom back until you get the angle you desire and keep everything square. That will also require the transom to be slightly taller, so don't trim to final size until after you see where it meets the sheer. Trim the sides and bottom to the new transom line. On the panels above there needs to be a little more meat on the hull bottom piece, the side is fine, if that makes sense.
Click to expand...
Tge plans I have were redone in 2023. If you come across your plans prepping for the move, I'd be interested if the transom angle is noted, to see if that has changed. Current plans call for a 12° angle to the bottom of the boat. The little research I've done suggests 14° is typical.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
Tge plans I have were redone in 2023. If you come across your plans prepping for the move, I'd be interested if the transom angle is noted, to see if that has changed. Current plans call for a 12° angle to the bottom of the boat. The little research I've done suggests 14° is typical.
Click to expand...

Not officially moving until 2027, so that would be quite a wait :).

I have folder for them, but no plans in it. I'll poke around a bit today and snap a pic if I find them.
 
I'm glad I decided to build a model first, both because a couple initial errors (one in measurement, a 2nd in interpreting the plans on a measurement) are cheaper to fix and because of the upside down/rightside up build question.

I mentioned earlier that the current plans are dated 2023. I don't know what, if anything, changed in the dimensions - but at least the materials recommendations changed (to 1/2" hull, side, and deck panels, from 3/8") from 2010. As I also mentioned, a "Setup" page pictures and gives dimensions for a jig/base for building the hull upside down. I'd be very curious whether a similar "Setup" page was included in previous plans that show layout dimensions for rightside up builds.

In reviewing in detail, I realized the Bulkead page plans didn't include marking of the Design Waterline on the various bulkheads - an important and necessary measurement if one is to build upside down and get the bulkheads correctly located in prep for the hull and sides. I sent Devlin a note, and Sam quickly responded with a revised page with DWL on the bulkheads (1-3 and 6-7... not on the knees that are 4&5), noting that these new plans are somewhat in both upside down and rightside up camps.

After cutting out panels and bulkheads and stitching the panels, I realized the plans only included reference on those panels for bulkhead #4 (knees in the plan, which I've redone as a bulkhead). But no measurements for marking where the other bulkheads should land at the sheer or hull. Did earlier plans include these measurements (assuming rightside up), or were they similarly missing.?

The jig in the Setup page includes spacing between bulkheads, so I can back into the spacing between... but the jig holds the bulkeads parallel vertically and horizontally. Without reference marks on the hull and sheer, building rightside up will require some careful blocking to insert bulkheads square with each other.

Obviously, I don't have to strive for perfect on a model - but this is all a good exercise to work through challenges and develop a game plan for the full build.

I'm interested in any similar challenges you faced in your SG build and how you solved them.

At this point, I have my panels stitched together and need to reloft and cut a new bulkhead #3 to replace the one I screwed up. I'm waiting on glue to dry on some laminated pieces to build a sort of a frame to hold the bulkeads in relative position to each other, so I can get the hull and sides positioned squarely for glue.
 

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It is likely that you are the first one that has built from these new and improved plans, so any omissions are being found now.

On my plans there were marks for each station (bulkhead) on the side and bottom that I put on when lofting (I thought your 2' marks where those at first). We covered this when we talked, but I did not use Sam's measurements for anything other than the side and bottom panels and how much to spread the hull at the sheer (maybe I installed the bow transom as drawn, don't remember). To measure the bulkheads with the hull level and the bulkheads plumb, I dropped a plumb bob at chine, centerline and 2nd chine and marked these marks on the stick spreading the hull. Taking the width, the distance in from the sheer to the chines and the centerline for horizontal measurements and the distance to the sheer (zero), chines and centerline were the vertical measurements I was able to come up with bulkheads that fit perfectly.

Once you start trying to fit panels you will see that things don't always fit. Different ply bends differently and 1/2" would bend differently from 3/8". Some people in the past chose to lay bulkheads out on luan and trim to fit, but just measuring for yourself is better IMO.
 
Henry, I noticed you modified the knees to a sheer to sheer bulkhead. I'm guessing the floor will rest on top. If so you could make the top surface flat instead of a shallow vee. Richard
 
I forgot to mention that there were alot of missing dimensions on my Poleboat 13 plans from Sam Devlin as well. If you are persistent he will get them to you but as he told me some of the less popular boats such as the Poleboat have not been entered into his computer making obtaining the missing information more difficult. Richard
 
RM Anderson said:
Henry, I noticed you modified the knees to a sheer to sheer bulkhead. I'm guessing the floor will rest on top. If so you could make the top surface flat instead of a shallow vee. Richard
Click to expand...

When I built mine, I did do that. I suppose there isn't really a need to do so. The floor would be very well supported by the keelson. I guess you might as well have that extra stiffness in the bulkhead, but there is some extra work in coming up with the dimensions to match the sole height at all the stations it interacts with.
 
Still playing with the model - sheer clamps on and seams all glued up, will start the deck soon. Also got my full-sized paper plans and starting my budgeting and research on trailers, motors, etc. The good news is I've found a local supplier for marine plywood - who is also the specialty wood guy in the area so will have the other woods I'll need. As a bonus, I learned his shop assistant took boatbuilding classes at the local community College 10 years ago and has built several stitch and glue boats.

As many of you know, these boats were all designed for short shaft motors - but you may have seen Tod's recent note that only Tohatsu still makes short-shaft 40hp motors. While Tohatsu would be near the top of my list anyway, I pinged Devlin to confirm I could add 5" to the transom and use a long shaft. Sam confirmed that would be fine.

That has me thinking on some benefits and possible design changes.

The most obvious benefit would just be transom height when in reverse and keeping more water out.

2nd, as the head would be higher that would bring the tiller up a bit and also give more clearance for a tilted motor.

I may be able to lift the splashwell a touch for more room beneath. Or... I use the extra clearance to turn that space into my dog box (for use when hunting). If I build an insert with reverse angles and slats across the top, I could have a level, slightly sunk surface for the dog so much of her wet drips into the splashwell and out. The insert could be removable if needed for full tilt. The downside is that space is 2' wide, maybe a touch narrow.

As the extra bulkead in the model pictures above suggest, I plan to bring the rear deck forward - about 9" is my current thinking. The dog box size got me thinking, why not steal 2-3 inches from the width of the flotation boxes (getting the box closer to 2.5') - I could easily make that up with the additional length.

Interested in any push back you may have or flaws in thinking you may see.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
Still playing with the model - sheer clamps on and seams all glued up, will start the deck soon. Also got my full-sized paper plans and starting my budgeting and research on trailers, motors, etc. The good news is I've found a local supplier for marine plywood - who is also the specialty wood guy in the area so will have the other woods I'll need. As a bonus, I learned his shop assistant took boatbuilding classes at the local community College 10 years ago and has built several stitch and glue boats.

As many of you know, these boats were all designed for short shaft motors - but you may have seen Tod's recent note that only Tohatsu still makes short-shaft 40hp motors. While Tohatsu would be near the top of my list anyway, I pinged Devlin to confirm I could add 5" to the transom and use a long shaft. Sam confirmed that would be fine.

That has me thinking on some benefits and possible design changes.

The most obvious benefit would just be transom height when in reverse and keeping more water out.

2nd, as the head would be higher that would bring the tiller up a bit and also give more clearance for a tilted motor.

I may be able to lift the splashwell a touch for more room beneath. Or... I use the extra clearance to turn that space into my dog box (for use when hunting). If I build an insert with reverse angles and slats across the top, I could have a level, slightly sunk surface for the dog so much of her wet drips into the splashwell and out. The insert could be removable if needed for full tilt. The downside is that space is 2' wide, maybe a touch narrow.

As the extra bulkead in the model pictures above suggest, I plan to bring the rear deck forward - about 9" is my current thinking. The dog box size got me thinking, why not steal 2-3 inches from the width of the flotation boxes (getting the box closer to 2.5') - I could easily make that up with the additional length.

Interested in any push back you may have or flaws in thinking you may see.
Click to expand...
Straight off Yamaha website. 25 horse, electric trim,start,tiller available in 15 or 20 inch shaft length.

Got one that's less then 2 years old sitting on the transom of our troatline boat. Solid lil motor.
 

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HenryHawthorne said:
Still playing with the model - sheer clamps on and seams all glued up, will start the deck soon. Also got my full-sized paper plans and starting my budgeting and research on trailers, motors, etc. The good news is I've found a local supplier for marine plywood - who is also the specialty wood guy in the area so will have the other woods I'll need. As a bonus, I learned his shop assistant took boatbuilding classes at the local community College 10 years ago and has built several stitch and glue boats.

As many of you know, these boats were all designed for short shaft motors - but you may have seen Tod's recent note that only Tohatsu still makes short-shaft 40hp motors. While Tohatsu would be near the top of my list anyway, I pinged Devlin to confirm I could add 5" to the transom and use a long shaft. Sam confirmed that would be fine.

That has me thinking on some benefits and possible design changes.

The most obvious benefit would just be transom height when in reverse and keeping more water out.

2nd, as the head would be higher that would bring the tiller up a bit and also give more clearance for a tilted motor.

I may be able to lift the splashwell a touch for more room beneath. Or... I use the extra clearance to turn that space into my dog box (for use when hunting). If I build an insert with reverse angles and slats across the top, I could have a level, slightly sunk surface for the dog so much of her wet drips into the splashwell and out. The insert could be removable if needed for full tilt. The downside is that space is 2' wide, maybe a touch narrow.

As the extra bulkead in the model pictures above suggest, I plan to bring the rear deck forward - about 9" is my current thinking. The dog box size got me thinking, why not steal 2-3 inches from the width of the flotation boxes (getting the box closer to 2.5') - I could easily make that up with the additional length.

Interested in any push back you may have or flaws in thinking you may see.
Click to expand...

I'm having trouble understanding your plan, If you are mocking it up, post a pic when done. My thought is that you are thinking of locating the dog's spot over what would typically be the motor well. The absolute last place I'd want a dog is on top of the motor well and in front of the motor, but maybe I'm not understanding your plan. A dog anywhere near the rigging would be a nightmare when they launch themselves in our out of place, the wiring and fuel lines aren't exactly fragile, but dogs aren't exactly gentle. Not that dogs aren't always in the way already, but you are training them that their place is to be right in the way, their safe spot is going to be to jump right up on the tiller whenever they think it is or want it to be time to hunt.

There are some of the larger boat blind boats that have full width wells with dog platforms. Look at the Bankes larger ones, maybe the duckwaters. These are only really feasible on a really beamy boat as you are having a hard time fitting the dog somewhere. Boats with a stern dog platform are just a totally different class of boat in terms of size.

It seems like you are committing to a tall blind 100% and while a good tall blind works well for divers, you will be limited for puddle ducks unless up against some sort of significant cover.

I drawed up this idea for you:
1738416591881.png
 
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