Off topic, yet hunting related

[Huntindave McCann]

Awhile back I was asking for guidance in choosing a 3D printer. My quest is over, at least for the present time. A good friend of mine upgraded his printer and gifted me his old one, an entry level Creality Ender 3 V2. I have been busy creating a couple simple projects.

First project was some sheaths for some knives I had previously made.
The knives;


With sheaths;

=================================

Second project was an adapter for my crossbow quiver. The factory quiver mount is located on the bottom side of the crossbow. While this has worked for me in the past, I was interested in designing an adapter which would allow the quiver to be mounted above the crossbow limbs.

The design;


The printed pieces;


Installed on my Ravin R5;

 

[tod osier]

Good stuff Dave, lotta functionality in one of those.

 

[RM Anderson]

Dave,
Very impressive! Over the years I have had to fabricate many parts by hand. Kind of makes me wish that I was handier with AutoCAD.
RM

 

[tod osier]

Awhile back I was asking for guidance in choosing a 3D printer. My quest is over, at least for the present time. A good friend of mine upgraded his printer and gifted me his old one, an entry level Creality Ender 3 V2. I have been busy creating a couple simple projects.

First project was some sheaths for some knives I had previously made.
The knives;
View attachment 71949

With sheaths;
View attachment 71950
=================================

Second project was an adapter for my crossbow quiver. The factory quiver mount is located on the bottom side of the crossbow. While this has worked for me in the past, I was interested in designing an adapter which would allow the quiver to be mounted above the crossbow limbs.

The design;
View attachment 71951

The printed pieces;
View attachment 71952

Installed on my Ravin R5;
View attachment 71953

View attachment 71959

How has that crossbow been treating you? I really like the accuracy, speed and how simple my excalibur is, but I'm looking for something more compact. A full size recurve crossbow is just a really large beast to carry around. How is it for going through strings?

 

[Ed L.]

I'm curious as to what software you using Dave. I haven't touched a cad system since retiring. I've often thought about getting a 3d printer but while my son still enjoys it I'll bother him for stuff. He printed these for stakes for my kayak. We found something I liked on line and he modelled them and printed them out.

 

[Carl]

Sorta related, kinda:
We walked into our son's rental house, that he shares with 3 other electrical/aerospace engineers, and on the kitchen table is a large 3D printer, with boxes of parts, tools, filament, a filament dehumidifier and printed parts all over the table and adjacent bench.
His roommate was busy printing a nose cone for a rocket their Space Hardware Club rocket, for an upcoming competition.
There was a model of an Saturn V rocket engine sitting on the counter.
My son used it to print mounts for PCs and mother boards for his senior design project.
Nothing like a house full of nerdy rocket scientists!

 

[Ed L.]

Sorta related, kinda:
We walked into our son's rental house, that he shares with 3 other electrical/aerospace engineers, and on the kitchen table is a large 3D printer, with boxes of parts, tools, filament, a filament dehumidifier and printed parts all over the table and adjacent bench.
His roommate was busy printing a nose cone for a rocket their Space Hardware Club rocket, for an upcoming competition.
There was a model of an Saturn V rocket engine sitting on the counter.
My son used it to print mounts for PCs and mother boards for his senior design project.
Nothing like a house full of nerdy rocket scientists!

My son being a software engineer would be right there with them!

 

[Huntindave McCann]

How has that crossbow been treating you? I really like the accuracy, speed and how simple my excalibur is, but I'm looking for something more compact. A full size recurve crossbow is just a really large beast to carry around. How is it for going through strings?

I like it. As for going thru strings, eh, OK I guess. I've got nothing to compare it too. I start to see some serving separation rather quickly but I'm not convinced it is enough to be a problem. I replaced the strings and cables once after around 200 to 300 shots. Only because that is 200 is the factory recommendation.
The compactness of the Ravins is what drew me to their lineup. That and I like the idea of a "rail-less" system. Probably the most popular model is the R10 or R10X. The R10 is a bit slower speed which equals a bit less stress on the strings, limbs and components.
From a shooting bench I can typically shoot a half dollar at 60 yards. My R5X shoots right around 400FPS which is fast enough my tired eyes cannot track the flight under 40 yards. Inside of 40, the arrow has entered the target before I see it in flight.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

I'm curious as to what software you using Dave.

I am using the free version of Fusion. I'm self taught in transitioning from 2D thinking and sketches to 3D modeling. Sometimes it's a struggle to wrap my head around something different than what I was taught in school and worked with forever. I was just getting my feet wet on 3D modeling during the last couple years of my career.
Having a printer has re-enforced the idea of checking your work before hitting the start button. Dang CNC's do exactly what you tell them, they just don't care.
You have to just laugh at yourself when you glance at the printer after 2.5 hours and there is a ball of extruded filament being drug around. It don't bond well to the print bed when you had one component floating in the air, instead of on the same plane as everything else.

 

[Ed L.]

I am using the free version of Fusion. I'm self taught in transitioning from 2D thinking and sketches to 3D modeling. Sometimes it's a struggle to wrap my head around something different than what I was taught in school and worked with forever. I was just getting my feet wet on 3D modeling during the last couple years of my career.
Having a printer has re-enforced the idea of checking your work before hitting the start button. Dang CNC's do exactly what you tell them, they just don't care.
You have to just laugh at yourself when you glance at the printer after 2.5 hours and there is a ball of extruded filament being drug around. It don't bond well to the print bed when you had one component floating in the air, instead of on the same plane as everything else.

I feel your pain. Looks like you're getting the hang of it. It was difficult to cross over from 2d to 3d for me too. Once I got it though there was no turning back. I've messed with Fusion a few years ago. It's what Kyle uses. It's a bit different than Creole or Solid works. I'd like to layout the parts for a modified Kara hummer I have in mind then have Kyle print it out to prove the design is what I want. He has a large scale cnc wood router and it would be cool to rout out the bulkheads, nose and transom parts. After being on this site for 20 some years I should build something.

 

[FD Roe]

We used to include a note on all mechanical drawings that said, "regardless of the dimensions shown all parts must fit". Sometimes the phone rang and a technician would ask the engineer to come to the shop! A 3D printer just prints what the file says.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

We used to include a note on all mechanical drawings that said, "regardless of the dimensions shown all parts must fit". Sometimes the phone rang and a technician would ask the engineer to come to the shop! A 3D printer just prints what the file says.

At least a printer is working directly off a model. When one has to keyboard numbers to a large bridge mill, it is best if all the decimal points are in the correct location. Seems like Z-5.0 is NOT the same as Z-.50 dang fat fingers

"all parts must fit" = get a bigger hammer

 

[tod osier]

I like it. As for going thru strings, eh, OK I guess. I've got nothing to compare it too. I start to see some serving separation rather quickly but I'm not convinced it is enough to be a problem. I replaced the strings and cables once after around 200 to 300 shots. Only because that is 200 is the factory recommendation.
The compactness of the Ravins is what drew me to their lineup. That and I like the idea of a "rail-less" system. Probably the most popular model is the R10 or R10X. The R10 is a bit slower speed which equals a bit less stress on the strings, limbs and components.
From a shooting bench I can typically shoot a half dollar at 60 yards. My R5X shoots right around 400FPS which is fast enough my tired eyes cannot track the flight under 40 yards. Inside of 40, the arrow has entered the target before I see it in flight.

Thanks Dave, the performance you are getting is similar to what I'm getting and I'd be happy with what you describe for sure (my crossbow is a tackdriver as well - a little faster 440 with light bolts and 390 with my current very heavy arrows). I would like a more compact package so very appealing. My current crossbow, I'm constantly needing to re serve the strings part of the tradeoff with a heavy limbs on a fast recurve bow, I really like how simple the excalibur is, but it is huge (big in 3 dimensions and heavy). I'm really trying to figure out how to get one on a horse, I don't see how it would work out at present.

One last question... how is the shock when you shoot yours and how loud? Mine makes my head hurt for the rest of the day after just a few shots. Heavier arrows help and quieted it a LOT, but it still isn't pleasant to shoot.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

One last question... how is the shock when you shoot yours and how loud? Mine makes my head hurt for the rest of the day after just a few shots. Heavier arrows help and quieted it a LOT, but it still isn't pleasant to shoot.

Your comment actually surprises me. Very little actual "recoil". I've sat at a shooting bench and ran 20-30 shots while initially sighting in and getting comfortable with the weapon. Arm just a bit tired from cranking the cocking lever, nothing more.
Noise wise, going from a compound to a crossbow, my initial reaction was, that's not quiet. Certainly nothing like a rifle but noisy nevertheless. Now it doesn't seem abnormal, again have not compared to any other crossbows. Shooting at and missing 2 deer, never spooked either one.
Best analogy I can come up with is if a .22 rifle is the crack of a hit baseball. My Ravin might be the thump of a hit softball. ?? I dunno.

I'm really trying to figure out how to get one on a horse, I don't see how it would work out at present.

While walking into my stand, I use a regular rifle sling, over either the near or far shoulder. Slung over the near shoulder, the bow clears my smaller backpack. This was one reason for moving the arrow quiver to "top mount", away from my torso. I plan to use the same "carry" riding my E-bike. (1st photo)

The crossbow hangs the best (lowest center of gravity) with the butt pad towards the sky, business end downward.
Orientated business end up, the bow wants to gravitate towards this position.


PS: I know several folks with horses. I could probably get them to saddle up a horse and get a couple photos sometime, if you think it might help you. It's been 40 years since the last time I've been on a horse. My dad had horses, I had motorcycles. Didn't have to feed the cycle nor muck a stall in the wintertime.

PPS: A sling such as this may give even better results??

 

[Eric Patterson]

Dave

Of all the people I know you have the experience to really create a lot of useful things on your printer. What software did you use to draw your design? After you had it drawn did you have to take other steps to convert it into something the printer could process? Or has that stuff been simplified in recent years?

 

[Huntindave McCann]

Dave

Of all the people I know you have the experience to really create a lot of useful things on your printer. What software did you use to draw your design? After you had it drawn did you have to take other steps to convert it into something the printer could process? Or has that stuff been simplified in recent years?

Eric,
I draw it up in the free version of Fusion. Then export the file as a STL file. I then open STL file in a software program by Cura. The Cura program allows me to (A) position the model onto a graphic of the printer bed (B) "slice" the model, which creates the "G-code" for the printer (C) save the G-code to a micro SD card. The card is then inserted into the printer, home the printer head, prewarm the nozzle and print bed, hit start = print.
So simple even a grouchy old fart can do it!

 

[Eric Patterson]

Dave

I had a hunch the process was something like that. I'm interested in adding some digital capability to my workshop but the Fusion learning curve has me holding off on any such purchases, like a CNC router. Does Cura have much of a learning curve?

Thanks.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

Dave

I had a hunch the process was something like that. I'm interested in adding some digital capability to my workshop but the Fusion learning curve has me holding off on any such purchases, like a CNC router. Does Cura have much of a learning curve?

Thanks.

Not really much at all for the Cura. My friend gave me a quick demo and I was off to races on the Cura step of the process. I have not researched for any online tutorials.

The Fusion, yes there is a significant learning curve and I am still in the elementary stages. Lots of tutorial videos out there. One series I might recommend is Arnold Roundtree. https://www.youtube.com/@ArnoldRowntreeTeachesFusion360
He has a 16 part series, I am only on video 7 or so. I usually review the same video several times over. Searching You tube for answers to specific questions has also been very helpful.
For me, the learning curve was steep early on but becomes easier as one begins to understand and build on the process. I was/am always trying to do an individual step, of which I have not yet learned. Some times trial and error figure it out for me , other times I can quickly find the answer on You Tube. I think the biggest key, is understanding how the different sketch and geometry functions, can be either "constrained" to each other, or "un-constrained". Understanding how and why this affects the end model, is key to creating and especially going back and later modifying a feature.
An example might be your oversize game calls. Change the ID bore size of the barrel and the OD size of the insert follows suit, automatically if constrained or doesn't change at all if unconstrained. All depends on how you as the designer, want it to happen.

I believe some of the CNC routers come with basic programming software. A neighbor bought one and was doing text and simple flatwork almost immediately, without any prior programming experience (that I'm aware of).

 

[tod osier]

Your comment actually surprises me. Very little actual "recoil". I've sat at a shooting bench and ran 20-30 shots while initially sighting in and getting comfortable with the weapon. Arm just a bit tired from cranking the cocking lever, nothing more.
Noise wise, going from a compound to a crossbow, my initial reaction was, that's not quiet. Certainly nothing like a rifle but noisy nevertheless. Now it doesn't seem abnormal, again have not compared to any other crossbows. Shooting at and missing 2 deer, never spooked either one.
Best analogy I can come up with is if a .22 rifle is the crack of a hit baseball. My Ravin might be the thump of a hit softball. ?? I dunno.

While walking into my stand, I use a regular rifle sling, over either the near or far shoulder. Slung over the near shoulder, the bow clears my smaller backpack. This was one reason for moving the arrow quiver to "top mount", away from my torso. I plan to use the same "carry" riding my E-bike. (1st photo)
View attachment 72012
The crossbow hangs the best (lowest center of gravity) with the butt pad towards the sky, business end downward.
Orientated business end up, the bow wants to gravitate towards this position.
View attachment 72013

PS: I know several folks with horses. I could probably get them to saddle up a horse and get a couple photos sometime, if you think it might help you. It's been 40 years since the last time I've been on a horse. My dad had horses, I had motorcycles. Didn't have to feed the cycle nor muck a stall in the wintertime.

PPS: A sling such as this may give even better results??
View attachment 72016

Thanks Dave, lotta good info there. The shock isn't recoil, it is like you hit a piece of steel with a big hammer, it resonates. Think about how inefficient the recurve limbs are, to get 400+ fps there has to be a lot of energy there getting released. In the end, with a flemish string, heavy arrows, silencer on the string, etc. it is plenty quiet but still not pleasant to shoot.

I'd be perfectly happy were it more compact and easier to carry, which is why I'm looking for something new. The pics really show how compact your crossbow is, that looks great. I'm just in the first stages here with this next step, but I'm trying to collect info as I go so I can hit the ground running in 2027 (retirement year and year we will be getting one of the horses). Elk hunting, I like the crossbow in my hands, it is pretty common to come up on elk where you wouldn't have time to unsling it, I've had a couple good bulls and a bunch of cows just appear at close range in the dark timber. I'll probably want to concoct some sort of scabbard for the horse, could do a lot of damage to the bow strapped to me on a horse or the horse unprotected. Lot to learn, but this info was very helpful.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

I'll probably want to concoct some sort of scabbard for the horse, could do a lot of damage to the bow strapped to me on a horse or the horse unprotected.

Are you wanting to hunt from horseback or simply transport your weapon on horseback? Ravin offers a soft case with built in backpack straps.