Polymerized Tung Oil

RM Anderson

RM Anderson

Well-known member
For years I have been blissfully ignorant and have used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Not until recently did I learn that linseed oil is far down the totem pole compared to tung oil. Trouble was, I didn't have a month to finish my solo canoe yoke. After investigating several products, I stumbled upon polymerized tung oil that dramatically cuts the dry time. I don't imagine it is the right product for the beautiful calls being made here but I thought I would pass it along.
RM
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The website says indoor or outdoor but makes no mention of UV resistance. It is 100% tung oil so I am assuming it must be thinned. They also make a tung oil that comes thinned, ready to apply.
RM
www.bumblechutes.com

S'TUNG OIL | Bumblechutes

Premium Polymerized Tung Oil for Unmatched Protection and BeautyDiscover the ultimate wood finish with S’tung Oil, a 100% polymerized tung oil crafted to provide superior durability, natural beauty, and long-lasting protection. Ideal for makers, woodworkers, and homeowners, S’tung Oil penetrates...
www.bumblechutes.com www.bumblechutes.com
 
Linseed oil is good stuff, though I prefer tung as it doesn't yellow as much as linseed over time.

I'm not familiar with this particular brand, but Sutherland Welles have been selling polymerized tung oil and it is quite good. It would be totally fine with calls. The advantage to me of pure tung oil that it is non-toxic whereas the additives un polymerized may not be... though honestly, once cured and any drivers evaporated, that really wouldn't matter.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
Linseed oil is good stuff, though I prefer tung as it doesn't yellow as much as linseed over time.

I'm not familiar with this particular brand, but Sutherland Welles have been selling polymerized tung oil and it is quite good. It would be totally fine with calls. The advantage to me of pure tung oil that it is non-toxic whereas the additives un polymerized may not be... though honestly, once cured and any drivers evaporated, that really wouldn't matter.
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Henry,
This product is 100% tung oil; no driers. It has only been heated to help it dry faster.
RM
 
HenryHawthorne said:
good deal. Some have drivers, too, as I recall - and others (like SW) have some additives for UV and fungal inhibitors.
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I did see a product with UV inhibitors but I kind of wanted something universal that could be used on canoe gunnels to cutting boards. The way I understand it, if you want UV resistance, just tint it. The ancient Chinese used tung oil on boat hulls for centuries. Should be better than Watco Oil in any case.
RM
 
The big advantage to tung oil over many "oil finishes" in my mind is the ease of renewing it, so I don't worry too much about UV. A few extra coats, allowing it to fully dry between coats, will enhance UV protection some... but as the finish will diminish over time due to uv exposure, refreshing it periodically will be necessary. Fortunately, that is as simple as a very light sanding, cleaning the residue off with mineral spirits, and a new coat or two of tung oil.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
The big advantage to tung oil over many "oil finishes" in my mind is the ease of renewing it, so I don't worry too much about UV. A few extra coats, allowing it to fully dry between coats, will enhance UV protection some... but as the finish will diminish over time due to uv exposure, refreshing it periodically will be necessary. Fortunately, that is as simple as a very light sanding, cleaning the residue off with mineral spirits, and a new coat or two of tung oil.
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Agreed. At this point my wrinkly old ass needs UV protection more than my boat.
RM
 
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Question for all craftsmen well versed in tung oil:
So, my question revolves around thinning tung oil for greater absorption. For years I have listened to the detractors of penetrating epoxy, specifically West Systems, who say that thinning epoxy does not result in deeper penetration. What say you as it pertains to thinning tung oil?
RM
 
Teak oil would be my choice for your job. Works great for outdoor furniture and as a base coat for some duck call woods. Penetrates and dries relatively quick. Traditional for boats also.

Fred
 
I'll speak to raw tung oil, but I'd assume the same will be true for polymerized.

No problem cutting it. I use a citrus solvent, but mineral spirits are fine. The thinned oil will get absorbed better, and the solvent will flash off, leaving just oil. Raw oil is much too thick to get absorbed. 50/50 oil to solvent is a very common mixture. I've used 25/75 to start, then 50/50, then eventually 100/0 for a final application.
 
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