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I believe a surface drive has a different type of prop that is design to be driven only part-way in the water and does not need to be fully submersed.

I put off the hunting trip a day to get the issue dealt with among other things. It seems a little spray on Rem Oil did the trick. Thanks guys! But now a plastic fitting on the fuel pump came loose. There was no clamp or anything. It seemed to be just pushed on there. I may have to glue...

You are not kidding about great!

Where did you spray the wd-40? I am heading out tomorrow.

Thanks. I'll try the clean up.

Any idea where to get one?

The starter on my outboard doesn't engage most of the time. I turn the key and it just makes a Whizz!! sound. I figured out I can turn the starter by hand and engage it with the flywheel. Then it will start. Any ideas? Just get a new starter? It is an old 90 hp Johnson with oil...

Treated wood is for wood in constant contact with damp ground. You don't need it for decoys that are only in the water part time, only part of the year. It sounds like more work than it is worth. Then to have to worry about poison too. Some time free isn't worth it or really free.

The best way to hunt that spot would likely be from a couch in your living room. NO duck is worth risking your life over. Find sheltered water.

I bought a quart of the white. I HOPE it might make the whites look brighter to a bird. But who really knows? Shinning a uv light on something is not the same as what birds might see. I figure I will use it when I am painting white anyway, but not go through the trouble of repainting...

I finished the Busick and got it in the water. The lowered foot area worked perfect. I can only imagine how painful the stock area would have been. I didn't even need any extra weight to compensate. If anyone is looking to buy a new fiberglass one I would give Tony H. a call. He said his...

A polar fleece would work good under the filson. I have Filson, but don't often use it. My cold weather gear is a fairly thin Cabelas coat for the outer layer, a fleece, and wool vest. The Filon or LL Bean could be the top layer as well. Filson is not totally waterproof. In a down pour...

2 sheets 1/4" plywood $50 1x2 's $15 Paint $20 bolts and screws $25 Had scrap 3/4" plywood for centers: $ ??? $110 for 10 sets

Thanks for the tips guys. I will use some mat and wet it out before applying.

Which will bend easier around a corner? I need to glass the chine(?) around my layout and would like to use whichever will be easier. The bow and stern around rounded which compounds the curvature as well.

1x2 but 48" long.

I don't have any pics right now. But I did it just like the diagram above. A bolt and lock nut for each arm. The plates are 3/4" plywood I had left over. The angle stops are scrap 1x2 angled at each end to keep the arms at 120 degrees.

Here is half of them, five sets. They should work good on the ice as well.

48". I made one at 32", but they seemed really short for geese.

Yep. I copied you with that too. I priced out hinges and went with the bolts and blocks.