1648 Lowe Jon boat overhaul has begun - hole patches

David Robinson

David Robinson

Well-known member
Over the years my 1648 Lowe mod-v jon boat has done a great job. But time has caught up to her and this will be the year she gets some TLC. We started with a complete gut job. I tore out the old wood floors, seats, steering console, and removed the motor. Next, we cut out the live-well. I hated that thing and it took up valuable floor space for decoys. So now I have 2 large holes in the bottom of my hull. At least there was less metal to sand;)

[inline boatprep.jpg]

I have to thank my father-in-law for all of the help so far. He has a great shop that allowed us to get an early start this spring. Jeff is also extremely handy with tools. He cut the 2 patches out of the old live-well. I sanded the hull and washed it with acetone.

[inline boat1.jpg]

I used 3/16" aluminum pop-rivets to secure the patches to the bottom of the boat. What you don't see is the layer of 3M 5200 sealant under each rivet and the entire patch. Definitely wear gloves and have a lot of paper towels handy!

[inline boat2.jpg]

[inline boat3.jpg]

[inline boat4.jpg]

She's going to sit for a few days while the sealant cures. Next will be Steelflex #9 epoxy bottom paint. That will a big job compared to this one. I'm hoping Andrew is still up for helping me on this task. I'll keep everyone posted on this one.

BTW, if you guys have any input or helpful suggestions so I don't screw up my boat, I'm all ears. I'm trying to channel my inner "Steve Sanford" on this rehab, lol!

View attachment boatprep.JPG
View attachment boat1.JPG
View attachment boat3.JPG
View attachment boat2.JPG
View attachment boat4.JPG
 
Next, we cut out the live-well. I hated that thing and it took up valuable floor space for decoys.
Click to expand...

Take out the floatation foam too...that's a waste of space. Actually I thought I remembered you talking about re-foaming your boat, is that to be part of this rehab?

Did you taper the edges on those patches? If not I would before epoxy coating. I probably would have put them on the inside and filled the void on the outside to make a smoother bottom.

Chuck
 
Nice work. Like what Chuck said, file the edges if you haven't before you coat it. A dremel with a sanding drum will work quick. I put a much larger patch on mine a few years back using the same method and it's still holding strong.
 
Chuck,

Should I replace the foam with foam decoys - like old Herters?

R.C.

I'll be smoothing down those edges before I apply the epoxy. Good call on using the dremel tool.

After the Steelflex epoxy will the be new aluminum floors and FME paint.
 
Chuck,

Should I replace the foam with foam decoys - like old Herters?.
Click to expand...

Just make sure to tie the anchor lines to the hull, lest the decoy will float away and your boat will sink.
 
I have a 16 ft Tracker Griz. Would taking out the floatation in the rear bench affect the ability of the boat to support the weight of the motor? What about structural integrity of the boat? The idea of having all that free space sure tempts me.
 
I have a 16 ft Tracker Griz. Would taking out the floatation in the rear bench affect the ability of the boat to support the weight of the motor? What about structural integrity of the boat? The idea of having all that free space sure tempts me.
Click to expand...

It only supports the weight of the motor if the boat is full of water. It is there in case bad thing happen, if/when a bad thing happen you will wish you had it.
There may be a way to put in storage compartment in with a water tight seal.

Tim
 
Them patches are going to act like a brake is on. It is going to introduce all kinds of turbulence under the boat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top